S1 rebuild....not one for the purist

S1 rebuild....not one for the purist

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Discussion

mk1fan

10,521 posts

226 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
No way does my S4 bonnet way only 33kg. The Tuscan racer one maybe but the S4? How many times did the dial go round?

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
only to 33kgs

mk1fan

10,521 posts

226 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
Yeah, twice! laugh

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
So then, get some scales and weigh one

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
magpies said:
It is also the windage forces when open in a breeze or side of the road. Two gas struts will help but I'd also try to incorporate some mid point opening stop.
I wasnt considering using the gas struts as the props, I've worked with them on many projects, if they have enough force to lift and hold the bonnet then they would put significant force on it when shut. Solid props all the way for me. The gas springs just ensure that the lift is balanced when opening from one side.

I had a bit of a rethink on the layout and this is how it is now.



The full crossbar is an ideal place for the oil cooler.

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
Alan 1209 said:
The full crossbar is an ideal place for the oil cooler.
Also a intercooler if you turbo


Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
Alan Whitaker said:
Also a intercooler if you turbo
Think I would go for a 3.2 Busso before turbo.

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
A 3.2 Busso, they make good coffee tables, I did look at one of these but they wanted so much for it, and bits missing. I had a quick change of thinking

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
Alan Whitaker said:
A 3.2 Busso, they make good coffee tables, I did look at one of these but they wanted so much for it, and bits missing. I had a quick change of thinking
Yup,
seems to be cheaper to buy the whole car. My old 166 went like a scalded rat, and it was no lightweight, and the noise that engine makes is worth it all.

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
engine, meet chassis.


Chassis, meet engine


I think your going to get along just fine.beer

phillpot

17,117 posts

184 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all


Made for each other wink

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Sunday 29th January 2017
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Made for each other wink
Engine, yes. Gearbox was a more difficult marriage.

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Monday 30th January 2017
quotequote all
Time to bolt all the bits back

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Monday 30th January 2017
quotequote all
Alan Whitaker said:
Time to bolt all the bits back
should be getting the suspension parts back from powder coating this week, then everything is in place for the final assembly. Just need to get a windscreen (un tinted), build the wiring loom, setup the ecu, re-trim the interior and start it. And when thats all done its off to the rolling road. So end of next week then.

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Tuesday 31st January 2017
quotequote all
Just a quick question, I see that you had the re spray with the body off the car. Thinking with mine as to spray on or off, not wanting to scratch the new paint when refitting, just asking why you went this way.

Alan

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Tuesday 31st January 2017
quotequote all
2 reasons,
1 It's a total colour change, so body off reaches all areas, and
2 The body work could be done in parallel with the chassis stuff.
The complete car will go back to sort blemishes an minor chips at the end of the rebuild.

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Tuesday 31st January 2017
quotequote all
I see, have gone for a candy finish, not sure if they can touch up after so I might get them to lift the body to do the engine bay first

Alan

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Tuesday 31st January 2017
quotequote all

Time to start the wiring, I think I have everything.

phillpot

17,117 posts

184 months

Tuesday 31st January 2017
quotequote all

Think you'll need more whiskey and more wire wink


When I sketched out the wiring diagram to rewire my Taimar I took several copies of the fuse/relay board lay out then did separate drawings (as they do for modern carts because they have so many wires) for different circuits, lights, ignition, wipers, etc. etc.

Built one circuit at a time, in the car, and tested before moving on to next. loom is cable tied apart from visible parts like under bonnet which is taped with non adhesive loom tape.

Alan 1209

Original Poster:

157 posts

96 months

Tuesday 31st January 2017
quotequote all
Wiring diag is spread across 5 sheets as discrete circuits, there is also a loom termination diagram, an excell spread sheet of fuses, relays and wire colour/capacity.
The dash loom is the old TVR one, as nothing has changed. The rest is done in thinwall multicore, much quicker and neater than all that wrapping. All the power circuits are routed through relays with 1 fuse per cicuit so that the column switches are switching very low current. all the lighting is changing to LED so power handling is greatly reduced, more photons less infrared and fewer horsepowers absorbed through the alternator, should give me another 0.2 mph.
And thats beer in the glass, whiskey is just not my thing.