S1 280 wiring question
Discussion
Hi to answer your questions
3 X 10 fuse blocks are fused outlets
Not using fused relays because I had these and no point spending extra money
7 fuses are to split up the load to the 3 fuse boxes and other things
100amp fuse from battery to 7 fuse splitter power block
Relays wires are into foot well so it should be waterproof
Relay plates are to bolt the relay block down
Why could they be dangerous, I think not
New Harness made and ready to fit
3 X 10 fuse blocks are fused outlets
Not using fused relays because I had these and no point spending extra money
7 fuses are to split up the load to the 3 fuse boxes and other things
100amp fuse from battery to 7 fuse splitter power block
Relays wires are into foot well so it should be waterproof
Relay plates are to bolt the relay block down
Why could they be dangerous, I think not
New Harness made and ready to fit
Alan Whitaker said:
Hi to answer your questions
3 X 10 fuse blocks are fused outlets
Not using fused relays because I had these and no point spending extra money
7 fuses are to split up the load to the 3 fuse boxes and other things
100amp fuse from battery to 7 fuse splitter power block
Relays wires are into foot well so it should be waterproof
Relay plates are to bolt the relay block down
Why could they be dangerous, I think not
New Harness made and ready to fit
By relay plates I meant what you class as relay blocks3 X 10 fuse blocks are fused outlets
Not using fused relays because I had these and no point spending extra money
7 fuses are to split up the load to the 3 fuse boxes and other things
100amp fuse from battery to 7 fuse splitter power block
Relays wires are into foot well so it should be waterproof
Relay plates are to bolt the relay block down
Why could they be dangerous, I think not
New Harness made and ready to fit
I have a better idea how you are doing the job now
Am I correct in thinking that there is no other fuse-box anywhere else in the vehicle, if I am correct, I am thinking that you have decided to fit the fuse-box and relays in the engine bay rather than in the passenger footwell and they are in as good as the same distance away from what they are supplying compaired to the original fuse-box and relays
Those fuseboxes aren't made for what you are wiring, it's a bit late now that you have made the wiring harness although you could change things if time is on your side
I think that you are fusing all the power supplies to everything or almost everything and that isn't the way to do it as it's overkill and adding weight plus making the harness thicker
I have no idea how you have planned to fuse RH/LH side and tail lights, headlights RH/LH Dip/Main and other circuits seperately with fuseboxes that have fuses all using a common supply
There is a bit of a workround for the above in your case as you are using and sticking to relays with built in fuses but I won,t go there now as you may wish me to leave you to it
A few fuses for the supplies to switches etc is good and then fusing all Lights adding for LH/RH/Front/Rear,Reverse HRW,Heater,Dash Illumination, Interior Light etc gets it right
If you are only fusing the supplies, if or when a fuse does blow, you won't know if the short is on a cables supply side or consumer side
Feel free in asking me to type no more
ECU needs 4 fuses
TCU needs 4 fuses
Injector bank 1 needs 1 fuse
Injector bank 2 needs 1 fuse
Bank 1 coils ( X4) needs 1 fuse
Bank 2 Coils needs 1 Fuse
Radiator fans 2 Feed and 2 load 4 fuses
Soon mount up not even got to the EPS power steering, Amps, radio, lights , horn, dash, door locks and windows and others.
No other fuses or relays
Alan
TCU needs 4 fuses
Injector bank 1 needs 1 fuse
Injector bank 2 needs 1 fuse
Bank 1 coils ( X4) needs 1 fuse
Bank 2 Coils needs 1 Fuse
Radiator fans 2 Feed and 2 load 4 fuses
Soon mount up not even got to the EPS power steering, Amps, radio, lights , horn, dash, door locks and windows and others.
No other fuses or relays
Alan
I don't understand what you are attempting to achieve by not explaining how you are going to fuse for LH/RH Side and Headlights, the fuse boxes you have fitted are not for fusing a motor vehicles equipment, those boxes you are using work with a common supply and are used for fusing add-ons like Spot Lights, Driving Lights etc and they are wired directly to the number 30 terminals of the relays used for supplying any add-ons
There really is no need for all the fused circuits that you have listed. Coils and injectors shouldn't be fused, I have no idea how you are wiring your radiator fans but do know that a fuse for each fan motor is sufficient
I get the impression that you are doing your utmost to protect all circuits from burning out, if this is the case, why use the incorrect fuse boxes that are unable to protect all consumers plus RH/LH lighting circuits correctly
I feel it best that I finish off here right now by wishing you all the best with the job in hand
There really is no need for all the fused circuits that you have listed. Coils and injectors shouldn't be fused, I have no idea how you are wiring your radiator fans but do know that a fuse for each fan motor is sufficient
I get the impression that you are doing your utmost to protect all circuits from burning out, if this is the case, why use the incorrect fuse boxes that are unable to protect all consumers plus RH/LH lighting circuits correctly
I feel it best that I finish off here right now by wishing you all the best with the job in hand
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 25th January 19:44
Jerseyjohn said:
HI Penelope Stopit
Could you give a link as to what equipment you would use and a revised wiring diagram if you made one please.
ta
OK can you put something together explaining what you want to achieveCould you give a link as to what equipment you would use and a revised wiring diagram if you made one please.
ta
What car are you working on?
What electrical extras will be fitted?
Are you on a tight budget?
What experience do you have with electrical work?
Do you have your own terminal kits and cable etc?
Have you got gold plated basin taps?
I will reply but it could be tomorrow
Perhaps it would be best for you to start a topic and post the link to it here
I don't know why you are saying the fuse boxes are no good, the tvr has banked fuses just the same way except mine are 10 way 
As you can see the bank of fuses are fed by a single feed in banks, mine are just the same in banks of 10 and are suitable for car use, each fuse can be to lets say feed a headlight relay a dip beam a n/s o/s light , reverse relay so what the issue you have.
Alan
As you can see the bank of fuses are fed by a single feed in banks, mine are just the same in banks of 10 and are suitable for car use, each fuse can be to lets say feed a headlight relay a dip beam a n/s o/s light , reverse relay so what the issue you have.
Alan
phillpot said:
Strangely enough they are!
no doubt they are wrong, I'm living on borrowed time and I'm long overdue a catastrophic electric failure?
Obviously!no doubt they are wrong, I'm living on borrowed time and I'm long overdue a catastrophic electric failure?
I have been told, at various times, that crimped connectors are useless, and everything should be soldered, and also that a proper crimped connector actually gives you a better connection because crushing the cable gives a bigger conductive surface area to transfer current between the cable and the connector.
I bought a proper crimper (not the two-piece plier thing you buy for £4.99) and so far, no problems (to be fair, I've only been doing them for 30 years or something, so any day now I'm going to burn to a crisp for my troubles).
I've just remembered about 35 years ago I had an Escort in a Ford dealer for an accident repair - I had made an "alarm" using an old siren and some relays. I knew the service receptionist and she told me that after the repair, they decided that all these relays were a fire risk, so they removed them for my ongoing safety. All was going well right up to the point where they set the car on fire, and then called to tell me that the repair had been delayed while they waited for parts...
Leave it to the experts, I say.
Penelope Stopit said:
What are those 3 x 10 Way 3 x Supplies in to 30 Supplies out for?
Why are you using relays with built in fuses?
What are the 8 fuse holders with 7 fuses fitted for?
What is the single 100 AMP relay beside the 8 fuse holders for? I'm guessing it's for cranking but shouldn't be guessing
Are those 2 x 6 relay plates waterproofed underneath where the cables exit them?
What are those 2 x 6 relay plates for?
Are these images of the engine bay? I think these items are in the engine bay but my thinking can be dangerous at times
Have you a complete list of all the lights, motors, etc that will be fitted and wired to complete the job and if so are you able to post it here?
Are you making the wiring harness?
If this is all 2 much I have a 280 fuse box in the spare parts garage.Why are you using relays with built in fuses?
What are the 8 fuse holders with 7 fuses fitted for?
What is the single 100 AMP relay beside the 8 fuse holders for? I'm guessing it's for cranking but shouldn't be guessing
Are those 2 x 6 relay plates waterproofed underneath where the cables exit them?
What are those 2 x 6 relay plates for?
Are these images of the engine bay? I think these items are in the engine bay but my thinking can be dangerous at times
Have you a complete list of all the lights, motors, etc that will be fitted and wired to complete the job and if so are you able to post it here?
Are you making the wiring harness?
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 25th January 17:38
Alan Whitaker said:
ECU needs 4 fuses
TCU needs 4 fuses
Injector bank 1 needs 1 fuse
Injector bank 2 needs 1 fuse
Bank 1 coils ( X4) needs 1 fuse
Bank 2 Coils needs 1 Fuse
Radiator fans 2 Feed and 2 load 4 fuses
Soon mount up not even got to the EPS power steering, Amps, radio, lights , horn, dash, door locks and windows and others.
No other fuses or relays
Alan
Today I have spent a good few hours reading up on your build and found it all very interestingTCU needs 4 fuses
Injector bank 1 needs 1 fuse
Injector bank 2 needs 1 fuse
Bank 1 coils ( X4) needs 1 fuse
Bank 2 Coils needs 1 Fuse
Radiator fans 2 Feed and 2 load 4 fuses
Soon mount up not even got to the EPS power steering, Amps, radio, lights , horn, dash, door locks and windows and others.
No other fuses or relays
Alan
As you haven't shown me the door, I will take a chance in asking another question
Where do those 3 x 10MM green sleeved power cables connect to?
Thank you in advance
Hi each one is fed from a 60A fuse, the ones below the relays, the relays are all to be replaced, they are my sons I just stole them for the picture (he wants them back). There is a 100A relay direct from the battery.
Alan
I never show anybody the door, I am always open to listen and improve
Alan
I never show anybody the door, I am always open to listen and improve
I think I am correct in saying that the main differences between old car wiring and new car wiring are in the current carrying capacities if the switches The old cars had switches capable of making/breaking much higher current and therefore not requiring much in the way of relays, whereas modern cars have lightweight switches and banks of relays.
However as these cars get older and the switches become weaker / dirtier etc. it may be a good idea to add relays to take current load off the switches which have high load = ignition / Interior Fan / Horn and even lighting. This is the road I'm going down over the next couple of winters while hopefully still using the car through the summer.
However as these cars get older and the switches become weaker / dirtier etc. it may be a good idea to add relays to take current load off the switches which have high load = ignition / Interior Fan / Horn and even lighting. This is the road I'm going down over the next couple of winters while hopefully still using the car through the summer.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff