Help with engine mounts, remove washer/shim

[sebackman]

Dear all,

I need some help with the engine mounts in my S3C.

The previous owner of my S3C has mounted an about 8-10mm thick shim/washer between the motor and the left side motor mount, hence the motor is slightly moved/tipped to the right. Only on the left hand side.

I have read most of the threads about engine mounts but would still appreciate some help here.

The shim may have been to clear the catalyser 3-bolt coupling in the exhaust that otherwise may have hit the upper chassis tube on the left side. (joining the header and the catalyser)

The rubber mount on the right hand side seem just fine and the left shows some compression but no “collapse”. The right hand looks thicker thou….

I have now installed a new exhaust with v-band couplings and need to take out the shim to the clear the v-band coupling on the right hand side.

Is it possible to unscrew the bolts for both engine mounts and raise the engine slightly with a jack? Or do I need to unbolt anything on the gearbox and/or further back?

My plan is to put the car on jack stands and unbolt the engine mounts. Place a jack under the engine and try to raise the engine enough so I can remove the shim. I hope the shim has a slit and not a round hole so it can be removed by just taking the load off.

Would this work?

If ok, is it ok to put the jack (with a wide and soft head) just behind the sump to lift the engine. The weight should not be too much just to unload the left engine mount. Or will the sump hold with a piece of wood to spread the weight?

If I do decide to change the motor mount what mounts should I get. There are several threads about that but they are rather old. Some recommend Rally Design mounts but the links to the recommended mounts are now broken and there is now article number stated. Some recommend adding a metal cup round the rubber. Recommendations much appreciated.

My engine is also quite tuned so stiffer/stronger mounts would be beneficial to reduce engine movement.

All input much appreciated.

Kind regards
//Rob

[phillpot]

sebackman said:

Is it possible to unscrew the bolts for both engine mounts and raise the engine slightly with a jack? Or do I need to unbolt anything on the gearbox and/or further back?

Yes. The sump is quite strong, piece of wood to spread load a bit and all will be fine. Jack under the well of the sump (the big bit). The gearbox mount, much further back, will flex. Just keep an eye on the distributor, it could catch on the bulkhead, some are very close but taking the cap off should help.


If the packing is slotted it will , as you say, be easy. If it is not the bracket onto the side of the engine block can be on-bolted which may help.


The alluminium sump is definitely strong enough ...

Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 16th August 12:53

[sebackman]

Hi,

Thank you for info.

I will have to check if the sump is close to the ARB and that is why they added a shim. I thought it was for exhaust clearence.

An alternative is to add a shim on the right hand side also.

Or swap both for new monunts. Maybe these would fit.

Mount
http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/node/159

Cup
http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/content/stainless...

Kind regards
//Rob

[phillpot]

sebackman said:

Or swap both for new mounts. Maybe these would fit.

They look good, Burton don't actually quote a shore figure for their heavy duty mounts and cups are more expensive

[glenrobbo]

I replaced my S1 engine mounts with the Burton ones and added some home-made slotted shims for extra clearance between sump and anti-roll bar. There is a limit to the amount you can raise the engine without fouling against the underside of the bonnet.

A block of wood between jack and sump spreads the load to take the weight off the mounts and allow the engine mount brackets to be unbolted if necessary.

A 17 mm flex-head ratchet is an essential tool for the job. Believe me!

The stainless cups seem a good idea to limit deformation of the rubber mounts.