3 Year Rebuild - Complete!

[RayTVR]

phillpot said:

Penny, could you put some kind of time scale on this impending catastrophe, how long have I got to get this sorted?

Why, oh why, doesn't PH have a "like" button?

Used to work on marine electronics for many years and everything we did was subject to rigorous inspection by Lloyds. Crimps were good enough for them in mission critical applications, soldering crimps on would have got me fired..

[zombeh]

A yellow one is probably getting towards being a bit marginal on an alternator though isn't it? Aren't they good for about 50A?

It can't be in the "oh teh noes panic now" category though or the wire wouldn't fit in it. (assuming the wire is sized appropriately for the job it's doing)

[Maffe]

AndrewS2 said:

I've got an oil leak which I can't figure out if it's engine or gear box (or both).

Well its a Ford engine, if it don't leak you should be worried!
You mentioned that the rocker cover bolts and its leaking maybe not all oil drops down on the manifolds?

Longers said:

AndrewS2 said:

I've also still got a complete lack of power very low down the rev range

Rev it harder then Andrew. Simples

If you hear a grinding sound, just rev it more

[AndrewS2]

MisterTee said:

Have you checked the area around the distributor? Mine was leaking oil from the back of the engine which was then running down the bellhousing and off the gearbox onto the exhaust. Like you, I wasn’t sure where it was coming from and eventually traced it to the o-ring on the distributor shaft.

Always worth a look as it’s a really cheap fix!

Your car looks great, by the way.

Enjoy it!

Andy

This is definitely the right sort of area, I'll check it out thanks!

[Buzzlt]

From previous experience obviously on Tim’s S - i’m Guessing distributer as well. Been using the WD40 degreaser at work and it’s great stuff for cleaning up that sort of mess (I don’t buy it though).
Yellow crimp is for 4mm cable 32A but agree with Mike you just need a good crimper and it makes all the difference. Likely it will be fine if you have a new battery anyway.

Can’t wait to see it. Wonder if it will keep up with the rest ;-)

Greg

[hopper77]

I had a similar issue with my S3 years ago and it wasn't the throttle pots. It was something to do with the air flow system. I think it was the air flow meters but it was some time ago.

[TVR-Stu]

hopper77 said:

I had a similar issue with my S3 years ago and it wasn't the throttle pots. It was something to do with the air flow system. I think it was the air flow meters but it was some time ago.

Top lurking Hopper! Three posts in twelve years must be a record?

[Barkychoc]

You'll struggle to solder anything on an S wiring loom where the wire has had moisture in it (and that's most of it).
A lot of the copper strands are mixed with a horrible mix of copper oxide from the inside of the cable getting moisture in it.
You might be able to clean the strands and solder it, but I wouldn't hold my breath.
I dare say the quality of the loom wasn't great when new.
a) It was built to a price.
b) they were certainly never made to last this long

I have often thought about setting up to churn out a few S looms with high quality components, I just can't see the demand at the price point it would need to be at to do it justice. Stuff like this in low volume is just not viable.

[phillpot]

Barkychoc said:

You might be able to clean the strands and solder it, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

The strands will look black, I've managed to clean up and solder, when cutting back to "clean" copper hasn't been feasible (or I just couldn't be arsed).

Splay the strands out and scrape with a Stanley blade, twist a bit and scrape again.

But you're a crimper not a solderer I hear you cry? Yes, but occasionally a cable needs lengthening. A soldered joint, cleaned of flux, heat shrinked and taped into a loom is acceptable in my World for low amperage circuits...

[AndrewS2]

Update!

Cause of the lack of power at low revs was 2-fold:

1) valve clearances adjusted - 1 was very out so hardly opening, the plug was very black when removed. Heath at X-Works has adjusted them all.

2) fuel pressure regulator replaced. Fuel was approx half the pressure it should have been at

In addition Heath has done the ‘Philpot’ throttle mod - different cable and much more stiffly sprung. Feels so much more controllable.

And now? The car feels absolutely superb - I’m over the moon!! Starts easily hot or cold, idle is spot on and the torque and power are back!

Time for a full road test I think! Good job I’m writing this from Longers’ conservatory then....see many of you in France or Belgium!!!

Edited by AndrewS2 on Wednesday 9th May 06:35