Splitting gearbox from bell housing help

[SteveOS3]

Tried to remove the gearbox in one section today but as I didn't have much luck, I decided to try the method in the Steve Heath book.

At the moment the bell housing is just off the lugs and the gearbox mount is out. I tried to get it back onto the lugs but wasn't able to, so the whole unit is supported on jacks, as is the sump, to provide stability.

The book says to undo the box from the bell housing. Can someone confirm that this means undoing all six bolts highlighted below, three each side?



Thanks,

Steve

[magpies]

I would have thought it is the next joint forward = where the bellhousing joins to the gearbox

(just forward of the rectangular plate on the top of the box)

[SteveOS3]

That’s what I thought, but If it is, the bolt heads are inside the bell housing.

[phillpot]

The book is wrong.

You cannot access the bolts to split the gearbox from the bell housing, it comes out in one nice big heavy lump

[greymrj]

Dont even THINK of removing those 6 bolts you have highlighted unless you are a VERY competent mechanic. The bolts holding the bell housing on are inside the bell housing.
I've never actually heard of anybody splitting the box or bell housing to get it out.
It will come out in one piece although it is a heavy and awkward bugger!

[Jhonno]

4 bolts at the front of the gearbox, looks like you are about to undo the tail of the gearbox instead!

[mentall]

The 'box and bellhousing need to move quite a long way backwards to clear the clutch assembly. You'll probably need to release the engine mountings (a lovely job!) and move the motor forward for some clearance. And lots of things will be in the way; exhaust manifolds for a start. You can't tilt the back of the motor downwards to release the gearbox without moving it forwards, because the distributor (and maybe even the block) will hit the bulkhead.

As Steve Heath says, the 'box and bellhousing together does make a big, heavy, unwieldy lump. But I don't think there's any other way, other than taking out the complete motor and 'box together. And you'll be doing most of that!

I don't suppose Mr Heath ever tried his method ('from TVR Engineering') for removing a Type 9; his photo on p190 SHOWS that the gearbox/bellhousing bolt heads are inside the bellhousing and therefore inaccessible.

[phillpot]

Dizzy cap off or better still Dizzy right out and left hand rocker cover off and engine will tilt back far enough to get gearbox out, complete with bellhousing.

[phillpot]

If you take those six bolts indicated out the oil will pour out but that tail housing won't come completely off, it is held on by the selector rod.

[SteveOS3]

Thanks to everyone for advice.
Both rockers are off for new gaskets, dizzy cap off, fuel line uncoupled from bracket on back of engine to give max clearance.
Box is resting on lugs and chocked at the rear.
Jack ready under sump to tilt.
It seems like backwards to free the input shaft then forwards and down.

[SteveOS3]

Distributor out and engine tilted until the sump is on the chassis rail. Still no luck.

[SteveOS3]

Distributor out and engine tilted until the sump is on the chassis rail. Still no luck.
Should it come straight down and out or back until it disengages the input shaft then down towards the front?

[phillpot]

From memory it should be leaning back so far now that the gearbox just falls backwards, off the engine and out?


If you think this bits fun wait until you try putting it back in

[Kitchski]

The locating dowels might be rusted, which can make it a bit stressful to remove the box.

[SteveOS3]

It’s out at last.
We slackened the engine mounts and that gave us the extra tilt we couldn’t get when the sump was fouling on the chassis cross member.
Whilst pondering what to do I cut the fins off in situ.
The thrust bearing had half its retaining teeth missing and had separated from its rear section.
Time for a beer

Thanks for everyone’s help

Steve