Discussion
Newarth said:
Hi
Just bought an S1 in need of considerable love an attention. I see some of you guys are local and I really could do with some advice as it needs a body off restoration plus a lot more. I live in Lymm but the car is at my works in Irlam. Anyone free one day/night/weekend to Bob round and give me some advice.
Car looks better in photo than it iactually is.
Happy to assist where I can. Not a million miles away from you. PM me.Just bought an S1 in need of considerable love an attention. I see some of you guys are local and I really could do with some advice as it needs a body off restoration plus a lot more. I live in Lymm but the car is at my works in Irlam. Anyone free one day/night/weekend to Bob round and give me some advice.
Car looks better in photo than it iactually is.
Edited by Newarth on Saturday 23 March 20:38
Newarth said:
Stuff about his car/basket case.
Don't want to derail Bercilac's thread but here's some info from my chassis refurb.Clicky link
Definitely start a new thread about your journey, plenty of people here can answer your questions then.
HTH,
Carl.
Ceejay73 said:
Don't want to derail Bercilac's thread but here's some info from my chassis refurb.
Clicky link
Definitely start a new thread about your journey, plenty of people here can answer your questions then.
HTH,
Carl.
Clicky link
Definitely start a new thread about your journey, plenty of people here can answer your questions then.
HTH,
Carl.
Hi Tom
Spurred on by that ride in your beasty a few weeks back the car has moved along nicely.
Thanks to helping hands from Newarth yesterday (restoring this cars sister, 13 chassis numbers away and registered same day in the Leeds DVLC in 1988) she is back in (almost) one piece!
I've been back at work for a couple of weeks and the leg is much better now.
The body dropped back on nicely with a bit of wiggling and I can move on to dash removal, heater matrix replacement, doing away with the immobiliser, rewiring the engine bay, refitting the exhaust, adding the rest of the cooling system, front brake pipes and those lovely Griff seats.
I've set myself a target of June 1st for the MOT.
Spurred on by that ride in your beasty a few weeks back the car has moved along nicely.
Thanks to helping hands from Newarth yesterday (restoring this cars sister, 13 chassis numbers away and registered same day in the Leeds DVLC in 1988) she is back in (almost) one piece!
I've been back at work for a couple of weeks and the leg is much better now.
The body dropped back on nicely with a bit of wiggling and I can move on to dash removal, heater matrix replacement, doing away with the immobiliser, rewiring the engine bay, refitting the exhaust, adding the rest of the cooling system, front brake pipes and those lovely Griff seats.
I've set myself a target of June 1st for the MOT.
Edited by Bercilac on Sunday 14th April 07:58
Dash out, heater matrix replaced, some observations.
The heater is sealed to the dash top by foam and this had turned into crumbs, so not doing anything useful and will be replaced with modern self adhesive stuff.
My little yellow ignition switch block was melted and charred and is now binned.
I found it best to disconnect one of the heater cables from the engine bay and feed it through, then to unbolt the whole slider mechanism.
Most of the dash circuits have simple blocks to disconnect, but the fan, light and headlamp rotary switches have two or three wires onto the back of the switch, which I labelled and photographed.
I can't see that the fresh air pipes through the engine bay serve any truly useful purpose so those are getting blocked up, and the pipes were full of leaves anyway.
Whoever thought that mounting the brake balance valve like that must have been dropping acid - evil!
The immobiliser had simply been spliced into the ignition switch wires next to the yellow block and would have taken milliseconds to defeat (it is now where it belongs in the bin).
Overall it was very easy to pull the dash out.
Next weekend will involve lots of soldering, cleaning and refitting, brakes after that.
The heater is sealed to the dash top by foam and this had turned into crumbs, so not doing anything useful and will be replaced with modern self adhesive stuff.
My little yellow ignition switch block was melted and charred and is now binned.
I found it best to disconnect one of the heater cables from the engine bay and feed it through, then to unbolt the whole slider mechanism.
Most of the dash circuits have simple blocks to disconnect, but the fan, light and headlamp rotary switches have two or three wires onto the back of the switch, which I labelled and photographed.
I can't see that the fresh air pipes through the engine bay serve any truly useful purpose so those are getting blocked up, and the pipes were full of leaves anyway.
Whoever thought that mounting the brake balance valve like that must have been dropping acid - evil!
The immobiliser had simply been spliced into the ignition switch wires next to the yellow block and would have taken milliseconds to defeat (it is now where it belongs in the bin).
Overall it was very easy to pull the dash out.
Next weekend will involve lots of soldering, cleaning and refitting, brakes after that.
Scrubbed up nice, nearly there now. I think another 10 hours will see it ready for the MOT.
Does anyone know a supplier for the little plastic fir tree clips used behind the door cards?
Three of mine were missing, an alternative to the factory clips would be fine.
Various pipes, cables and wires to attach, one brake pipe to make and fit and the radiator area. I'm hoping next weekend will see it done.
Does anyone know a supplier for the little plastic fir tree clips used behind the door cards?
Three of mine were missing, an alternative to the factory clips would be fine.
Various pipes, cables and wires to attach, one brake pipe to make and fit and the radiator area. I'm hoping next weekend will see it done.
Incidentally the seat belts are nearly new VW van items and they don't snatch when you pull them off the reel, no matter what angle.
They were under £20 on Ebay, then another £16 for a pair of Punto stalks which seems like a good way around the factory item's propensity to bind unless pulled off the reel at a snail's pace.
They were under £20 on Ebay, then another £16 for a pair of Punto stalks which seems like a good way around the factory item's propensity to bind unless pulled off the reel at a snail's pace.
Looking really good. 
Have a look here for the clips https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/
Busy in London this weekend, but will pop round soon as i get the chance.
Have a look here for the clips https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/
Busy in London this weekend, but will pop round soon as i get the chance.
Finally, after months of having no time to work on the S (apart from the final torque on the heads, setting the tappets cleaning the injectors, fixing an exhaust manifold and fitting Landy clutch hydraulics!), I'm chasing down the last electrical funnies for the MOT (most covered by posts here which is brilliant, so thanks again everyone) and this one has me stumped.
Everything is working now apart from the offside front and rear side lights and dashboard lights.
Looking at the wiring diagram I can see that the offside and nearside side lights are on different circuits, with two 7.5 amp fuses.
Nearside I have 12 volts on the rear sidelight bulb holder, offside I have 0.1v. This is the same for the front sidelamps.
The offside lights work fine when I run a wire from the nearside unit, and I have 0.1 volts on the red and white wire in the connector block on the offside, indicating to me that the fault lies between the fuse board and the light units.
I also see that there is a rheostat for the dashboard light dimmer which of course had corroded to bits so I pulled that and put in a new one I had lying about. That also resulted in 0.1v at the red and white wire terminal.
All of the above is mentioned in various places on PH.
I think there may be a dimmer box somewhere between the rheostat and the light circuit and I strongly suspect that may be the root of the problem but I cannot find it anywhere behind the dash, or above the wiper motor or the glove box.
Does anyone know where else TVR may have hidden the dim/dip control box on a 1988 S1? I'm tempted to chop the wiring and bypass the whole shooting match but I'd rather do it properly.
Everything is working now apart from the offside front and rear side lights and dashboard lights.
Looking at the wiring diagram I can see that the offside and nearside side lights are on different circuits, with two 7.5 amp fuses.
Nearside I have 12 volts on the rear sidelight bulb holder, offside I have 0.1v. This is the same for the front sidelamps.
The offside lights work fine when I run a wire from the nearside unit, and I have 0.1 volts on the red and white wire in the connector block on the offside, indicating to me that the fault lies between the fuse board and the light units.
I also see that there is a rheostat for the dashboard light dimmer which of course had corroded to bits so I pulled that and put in a new one I had lying about. That also resulted in 0.1v at the red and white wire terminal.
All of the above is mentioned in various places on PH.
I think there may be a dimmer box somewhere between the rheostat and the light circuit and I strongly suspect that may be the root of the problem but I cannot find it anywhere behind the dash, or above the wiper motor or the glove box.
Does anyone know where else TVR may have hidden the dim/dip control box on a 1988 S1? I'm tempted to chop the wiring and bypass the whole shooting match but I'd rather do it properly.
Back to basics - it was a duff fuse. There was a 10 amp where there should have been a 7.5 which of course would not cause the problem, but it had a crack and some corrosion under the plastic.
Of worthy note is that the 'right hand side lights' fuse is not located where the manual suggests, but is in fact directly above the 'left hand side lights' fuse in position 'E'. Both are 7.5 amps.
Thanks to 88S1 for the photo that solved the mystery.
MOT next week, at last!
Of worthy note is that the 'right hand side lights' fuse is not located where the manual suggests, but is in fact directly above the 'left hand side lights' fuse in position 'E'. Both are 7.5 amps.
Thanks to 88S1 for the photo that solved the mystery.
MOT next week, at last!
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