s1 fuel metering fuel pipe routes

s1 fuel metering fuel pipe routes

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Discussion

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Saturday 21st July 2018
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Hi guys strange question but does anyone have any pics of which pipie goes where on the 2.8 s1 fuel metering head. I changed my fuel injector pipes mid rebuild and it now no longer starts just over fuels. I'm hoping its a simple as getting a pipe the wrong way round on the metereing head. I'm hoping with a pic of which pipe goes where I can follow each pipe from the metering head to each injector to the return to cold start and so on.

Hope you can help cheers











phillpot

17,116 posts

183 months

Saturday 21st July 2018
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The power of Google.......................... wink

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Saturday 21st July 2018
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Not sure these will be of any help but I marked mine before taking them apart. The numbers are NOT cylinders (not that clever!) but the locations round the meter head with the connection marked in white as no1 and then clockwise.



phillpot

17,116 posts

183 months

Sunday 22nd July 2018
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the injector pipes do not need to be in sequence, like for example plug leads.

WotnoV8

213 posts

85 months

Sunday 22nd July 2018
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Don’t know if these photos will help at all.


DamianS3

1,803 posts

182 months

Sunday 22nd July 2018
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phillpot said:
the injector pipes do not need to be in sequence, like for example plug leads.
Please bear this in mind smile the metering head does not know or care which cylinder is about to fire. So cylinder pipe runs are for neatness / convenience.

Damian S3

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Sunday 22nd July 2018
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Hi guys thanks for the pics. I've checked all your pics against my cars pipework and all is correct. Very good to know about the injector pipes not making a difference as I was thinking this could be where I went wrong. So what next I ask myself it can't be much I'm sure so how do I check the fuel preasure is correct from the pump or have I missed checking something else first lo.

I'm getting ready for paint but would like to drive it on and off trailer etc so really need to sort this issue, anyone else had anything like this. If I try to start it the the plugs get wet through however if I turn the key for about 3 seconds take power off fuel pump and try it again it will run lovely till the fuel in filter, pipes etc has gone.

anything would help cheers

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Saturday 28th July 2018
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Ok so small update.

Ive started checking things with my multi meter as told by my steve heath book bit by bit on my fuel line all seems ok visually apart from my auxilary air device. This seems to have a open circuit and looks like its knacked tested with meter nothing and put 12v straight to it again nothing. Although the tests I'm doing don't mean the other bits are fine it has shown a defo fault. Book says could make the car run rich ummm.

So before I go spending a fortune on the wrong parts I'm wondering has anyone local to me got a shed full of parts who would let me borrow them for testing purposes. I dont want to go buying stuff willy nilly to find out its not at fault if that makes sence.
I'm thinking obviously the aux air device, warm up reg, fuel start valve, metering head, thermotime switch etc. Anything would be great and ill get it straight back to you asap.
Cheers guys




Trefhead

96 posts

238 months

Wednesday 1st August 2018
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Hi I don't know the answers but the guys have been real helpful to me with my recent starting problem. The opposite to you. I have picked quite a lot over the last months........

You say, if you get it to fire, turning the fuel pump supply off, she will run till she's dry
If, when you do get the engine to start, you reactivate the fuel pump, will she run on ok or rev up

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Wednesday 1st August 2018
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Hi I find it revs high for a second or too but then I have to put the pump on again before it stops running.

I have noticed that the second I touch the wire to fire the pump up it wants to cut out so it must be a hugh amount of fuel going in

Scoobimax

1,892 posts

201 months

Wednesday 1st August 2018
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tony 69 said:
Hi I find it revs high for a second or too but then I have to put the pump on again before it stops running.

I have noticed that the second I touch the wire to fire the pump up it wants to cut out so it must be a hugh amount of fuel going in
Hi Tony - I'm no expert as you well know, but could it be electrical rather than over fuelling?


tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
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Hi max that could always be a possibility the plugs are always wet through after trying to start. I do have a spark tester on a plug when turning over and it does seem to spark constantly however as you say there could be another electrical issue I'm missing. It's easy to get blind sided when your confused lol

Scoobimax

1,892 posts

201 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
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tony 69 said:
Hi max that could always be a possibility the plugs are always wet through after trying to start. I do have a spark tester on a plug when turning over and it does seem to spark constantly however as you say there could be another electrical issue I'm missing. It's easy to get blind sided when your confused lol
Do you want me to pop over and cast my eye over it to see if you've missed anything? teacher

And by that, I really mean pop up for a coffeelaughlaughbiglaughbiglaughgetmecoat

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
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Your always welcome mate you know that

mrufcs1

81 posts

235 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
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Is the fuel pump cutting out ? Feels like it could be the pink fuel pump relay. It needs to see the pulse from the ignition circuit otherwise it kicks the fuel pump straight out.

It's a safety feature to stop the pump throwing fuel all over if you have an accident.

The fuel system on the 2.8's are really quite simple, it feels more electrical

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Sunday 5th August 2018
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Plugs get wet through if I leave the pump connected so I don't think the relay is kicking out. It may be electrical but i can see a spark while turning over I have a glass tube thingy on the plug. I'm getting 12v at the cold start ,aux air device (although this is knacked, bi metal spring tested thats how I know the air device is knacked but good on cold start etc .. I've run out of ideas now so may cover it up and just shake my head at it for a month lol

Le TVR

3,092 posts

251 months

Tuesday 7th August 2018
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If its overfuelling to that extent I would check the cold start injector is not energised/leaking. Pull out the Kalt start relay and try again.

Its not the AAD as that just lets in more air to up the idle rpm.
You haven't touched the primary pressure regulator on the distributor head?

Edited by Le TVR on Tuesday 7th August 16:44

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Thursday 9th August 2018
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Hi mate I've tried that and its working ok as far as I can see. The car has been stood for a long time and I mean years and reading things it says thats not good for things like the metering head. I havent done anything with this but wonder if something is stuck jammed etc.

tony 69

Original Poster:

151 posts

102 months

Friday 10th August 2018
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OK so let's see if I can make sence for you guys. I've removed the warm up regulator fuel pipe from the top of the fuel distributor (metering head) and if I shine a light in there I see what I assume is the piston that goes up and down depending on the precision of the air flow arm. I can see the piston looks like it has score marks on it making me think this is the part that goes up and down changing in effect the amount of fuel going to the injectors. This is stuck solid so I'm thinking it's just letting the same amount of fuel through fuel through at tick over as it would if you had your foot down giving me the flooding scenario I have. My question is am I right that this part of the piston should move up and down with a gentle push of a screwdriver through said fuel line hole. God I hope this makes sence lol
Cherrs

Le TVR

3,092 posts

251 months

Sunday 12th August 2018
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Quite possible that the metering piston seems blocked because it is linked to tha airflow flap that is bottomed out.
To check if it really is seized remove the rubber cap on the airflow meter and lift the flap and you should see the metering piston rise up.