Cossy sold and Jag bought - the hard work begins next week
Discussion
This week has seen a bit of progress
Once home from Joolz rolling road I had to cut down the aluminium bends fitted to the inlet plenum otherwise they would have been 3 or 4 inches above the bonnet.
I then rescued the bonnet from the back garden where it has been for a year !! and took it down to the garage.
Trial fit and bu99er the inlet still needed to come down an inch and also towards the engine by the same amount
Bonnet now fits
Connected the wiring and Houston we have a fault
Putting the ignition on also sends 12v to the dip beam without putting the lights on...….. traced the 12v back to the column switch out put, so may have to dismantle that Ho Hum
Gave it a wash to cheer myself up.
Once home from Joolz rolling road I had to cut down the aluminium bends fitted to the inlet plenum otherwise they would have been 3 or 4 inches above the bonnet.
I then rescued the bonnet from the back garden where it has been for a year !! and took it down to the garage.
Trial fit and bu99er the inlet still needed to come down an inch and also towards the engine by the same amount
Bonnet now fits
Connected the wiring and Houston we have a fault
Putting the ignition on also sends 12v to the dip beam without putting the lights on...….. traced the 12v back to the column switch out put, so may have to dismantle that Ho Hum
Gave it a wash to cheer myself up.
Yesterday we made and welded oil cooler mounting brackets, also relocated the oil catch can brackets. Today I fitted the 19 row cooler and connected to the remote filter using a Mocol thermostic sandwich plate. There is a clear air path to the bottom half of the cooler which should be enough,if not in fit a scoop under it to direct more air. Sent off for a KnN full flow large capacity oil filter which should arrive Tuesday.
shalmaneser said:
Is that an electric water pump? is that standard on the engine?
Hiit is a Pierberg CWA200 electric pump as fitted to 6cylinder BMW's from 2004 and controlled by a tinyCWA ecu all included in a kit from Tecomotiv. It also controls the radiator fan. Works a treat and does away with noy only the mechanical water pump but also the thermostat.
No not standard with the Ford (or Jaguar in my case) V6
Blue 30 said:
Also look at the fwd X type Jag 3.0 engine.
Same AJ unit with a different sump. As is the Mondeo st220 sump. Plus the sump slightly changed on the S type depending on year.
Don't forget you will also need the matching oil pump pickup pipe.
T.
What he said Same AJ unit with a different sump. As is the Mondeo st220 sump. Plus the sump slightly changed on the S type depending on year.
Don't forget you will also need the matching oil pump pickup pipe.
T.
Also check out Blue30's build thread
Edited by magpies on Thursday 16th April 20:54
magpies said:
does seem that way, runs on for about 3 or 4 seconds and the ecu LED stays green - next time it happens I'll try pressing the throttle to see if the revs rise before stopping.
GreenV8 said
Possible the switched ignition line is being backfed from the alternator energiser circuit due to too low resistance in the 'no charge' warning light combined with very low load on the switched ignition circuit? I expect you'll find the brake lights are powered through the switched ignition too, so if a foot on the brakes while you switch off prevents the problem it would support this hypothesis.
It may not help that I have changed the Side / brake / indicator lamps to LED's? I'm at work so can't test your theory yet.
does seem that way, runs on for about 3 or 4 seconds and the ecu LED stays green - next time it happens I'll try pressing the throttle to see if the revs rise before stopping.
GreenV8 said
Possible the switched ignition line is being backfed from the alternator energiser circuit due to too low resistance in the 'no charge' warning light combined with very low load on the switched ignition circuit? I expect you'll find the brake lights are powered through the switched ignition too, so if a foot on the brakes while you switch off prevents the problem it would support this hypothesis.
It may not help that I have changed the Side / brake / indicator lamps to LED's? I'm at work so can't test your theory yet.
Coskev said:
What about forward and backwards under braking and hard acceleration?
I don't think you would come anywhere near loosing oil pump suction during braking or acceleration with a properly topped up oil level. It would also take a seriously long bend at high speed to do the same, probably only on a track day. Had a slight problem with sighting a speed sensor for the speedometer (the gearbox sensor not working and impossible to get at). First attempt was to mount the sensor on the chassis and looking at the drive shaft bolt heads. I had purchased a sensor with the largest scanning gap I could = 4mm - as I drove slowly to where my measured mile is it suddenly stopped working as I accelerated out of a junction. Bugger, drove home and checked it out - the drive shaft/diff moves quite a distance and wiped out the end of the sensor.
phillpot has come to the rescue and given me a one he had in his Aladdin's Cave. I've just fitted it along with a redesigned bracket now mounted on the diff itself - so should move with that end of the driveshaft. It obviously has a very much shorter sensor range as it would not work until slightly closer than 2mm to the bolt heads (quite close then!) But it does work and I'll set the speedo tomorrow when back from work.
phillpot has come to the rescue and given me a one he had in his Aladdin's Cave. I've just fitted it along with a redesigned bracket now mounted on the diff itself - so should move with that end of the driveshaft. It obviously has a very much shorter sensor range as it would not work until slightly closer than 2mm to the bolt heads (quite close then!) But it does work and I'll set the speedo tomorrow when back from work.
GreenV8S said:
That doesn't look like the heftiest bracket in the world - watch out for resonance issues. (Had similar with my crank sensor bracket.)
Yeah did think that too - only thing I can do no is to lay some plastic metal along the top face. (I did ensure I had left a small mount of the 90deg corner along the bracket (started as a length of angle iron) to keep some anti bend strength.mrufcs1 said:
Mick, were driving down the A174 this morning near Thornaby ? Dark blue/black S series but only saw it last minute. Don't think it had the ford mirrors though ?
sadly not mine today. Only been locally in Stockton a couple of times this week. I hope to complete a couple of niggly problems next week or so and then I'll take to work A174 / A171 / A169Coskev said:
magpies said:
Hi Cos
what is your TB bored out to? mine is a 75mm Alpha unit
Mine also runs an electric water pump with a TinyCWP controller.
65mm mine is.what is your TB bored out to? mine is a 75mm Alpha unit
Mine also runs an electric water pump with a TinyCWP controller.
Edited by magpies on Friday 20th December 18:12
Yeah I run the digital controller with my EWP, runs the rad fan too.
I've relocated the oil cooler to in front (to one side) of the radiator as it made no difference to the temperatures. Now it does and keeps within the 100 to 110 degC range.
Managed about 700 miles.
No oil leaks or water leaks. Exhaust sounds 'harsh' just over 4000 revs -oh well never mind
Edited by magpies on Friday 17th July 19:06
Now done over 1500 miles
Does have an intermittent misfire and I have not yet investigated the ECU back feed which I have been told may well give this problem.
The exhaust sound great up to just under 4000 then goes a bit harsh but then changes to epic from 5000 to 7000........ it is quite quick too
You can just see the lighter blue front mud flaps, fitted to protect the leading edge of the chassis outriggers.
Does have an intermittent misfire and I have not yet investigated the ECU back feed which I have been told may well give this problem.
The exhaust sound great up to just under 4000 then goes a bit harsh but then changes to epic from 5000 to 7000........ it is quite quick too
You can just see the lighter blue front mud flaps, fitted to protect the leading edge of the chassis outriggers.
Edited by magpies on Friday 20th November 20:41
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