Cossy sold and Jag bought - the hard work begins next week
Discussion
magpies said:
Penelope Stopit said:
Wonder what would happen if a piece of spring was sucked in
That was my worry and could not get a satisfactory looking coil after an hour of trying. Hell of an achievement is this build
v8s4me said:
Thant's coming along very nicely Mick. Will you be able to get away without a bonnet bulge?
Keep up the good work
That is something I will be looking at, I like the look of the S4 bonnet Keep up the good work
But if I need the big bulge
I may well put a light bar in the front of it as it is not there to feed air in.
Working full time December and January isn't helping the build as only having Saturday mornings.
Anyway - a little headway - Spun the engine on the starter to see what oil pressure - a healthy 75psi
oil pressure switch not illuminating the oil light though
Also the ign warning light not illuminating - so some investigation reqd.
Filled the cooling system with a 50/50 antifreeze mix - no obvious leaks
Decided to tidy the wiring by running it in black 32mm plastic waste pipe
Photos are on the facebook page
Anyway - a little headway - Spun the engine on the starter to see what oil pressure - a healthy 75psi
oil pressure switch not illuminating the oil light though
Also the ign warning light not illuminating - so some investigation reqd.
Filled the cooling system with a 50/50 antifreeze mix - no obvious leaks
Decided to tidy the wiring by running it in black 32mm plastic waste pipe
Photos are on the facebook page
I'm sure you already know this, but for anyone else.
The engine oil light sender emits a Neg (earth) to the warning light when the engine is at rest (ie. No oil pressure). So you can easily test the cars wiring and warning light by simply earthing the sender lead, and switch the ignition on. The warning light should glow. You can also do a resistance test from the sender's tag to the engine block.
The ignition charging warning light is different in operation terms, as the warning light lead from the alternator emits a Neg (earth) when the engine is at rest, but emits 12v when the engine is running. So 12v to 12v on each side of the bulb will turn the bulb off.
No, I'm not going into that it requires the alternator to get excited
So to test the cars wiring and warning light, remove the alternator warning light lead, attach it to earth, switch the ignition on, and the warning light should glow.
T.
The engine oil light sender emits a Neg (earth) to the warning light when the engine is at rest (ie. No oil pressure). So you can easily test the cars wiring and warning light by simply earthing the sender lead, and switch the ignition on. The warning light should glow. You can also do a resistance test from the sender's tag to the engine block.
The ignition charging warning light is different in operation terms, as the warning light lead from the alternator emits a Neg (earth) when the engine is at rest, but emits 12v when the engine is running. So 12v to 12v on each side of the bulb will turn the bulb off.
No, I'm not going into that it requires the alternator to get excited
So to test the cars wiring and warning light, remove the alternator warning light lead, attach it to earth, switch the ignition on, and the warning light should glow.
T.
Blue 30 said:
I wonder where the extra 40+ horses are coming from above stock ?
The VVT as standard comes on at 5200rpm and stays on until the rev limiter,this reduces the peak power!Hence why mine now goes off at 5800rpm. TB has been bored out,
open air filter,tubular exhaust manifolds,no cats and an EWP all add up to extra power from the engine,combined with no aircon pump or PAS pump.
Without any VVT in use it made 264bhp,we then experimented with VVT on and off points to get it where it is now.
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