Cossy sold and Jag bought - the hard work begins next week
Discussion
shalmaneser said:
Is that an electric water pump? is that standard on the engine?
Hiit is a Pierberg CWA200 electric pump as fitted to 6cylinder BMW's from 2004 and controlled by a tinyCWA ecu all included in a kit from Tecomotiv. It also controls the radiator fan. Works a treat and does away with noy only the mechanical water pump but also the thermostat.
No not standard with the Ford (or Jaguar in my case) V6
Hi I've enjoyed reading this. I've just embarked on putting the Jaguar engine into a 3 door Sierra. The first hurdle on the Sierra is sump clearance. The AJ30 from S Type Jaguar has the deepest part of the sump and the pickup at the very front of the engine. Are there alternative sumps on these engines does anyone know? Options are to try to persuade Rocketeer the MX5 people to part with one of their very smart ones or go down the dry sump path which will add a hefty cost!
Blue 30 said:
Also look at the fwd X type Jag 3.0 engine.
Same AJ unit with a different sump. As is the Mondeo st220 sump. Plus the sump slightly changed on the S type depending on year.
Don't forget you will also need the matching oil pump pickup pipe.
T.
What he said Same AJ unit with a different sump. As is the Mondeo st220 sump. Plus the sump slightly changed on the S type depending on year.
Don't forget you will also need the matching oil pump pickup pipe.
T.
Also check out Blue30's build thread
Edited by magpies on Thursday 16th April 20:54
magpies said:
does seem that way, runs on for about 3 or 4 seconds and the ecu LED stays green - next time it happens I'll try pressing the throttle to see if the revs rise before stopping.
GreenV8 said
Possible the switched ignition line is being backfed from the alternator energiser circuit due to too low resistance in the 'no charge' warning light combined with very low load on the switched ignition circuit? I expect you'll find the brake lights are powered through the switched ignition too, so if a foot on the brakes while you switch off prevents the problem it would support this hypothesis.
It may not help that I have changed the Side / brake / indicator lamps to LED's? I'm at work so can't test your theory yet.
does seem that way, runs on for about 3 or 4 seconds and the ecu LED stays green - next time it happens I'll try pressing the throttle to see if the revs rise before stopping.
GreenV8 said
Possible the switched ignition line is being backfed from the alternator energiser circuit due to too low resistance in the 'no charge' warning light combined with very low load on the switched ignition circuit? I expect you'll find the brake lights are powered through the switched ignition too, so if a foot on the brakes while you switch off prevents the problem it would support this hypothesis.
It may not help that I have changed the Side / brake / indicator lamps to LED's? I'm at work so can't test your theory yet.
PATTERNPART said:
Hi I've enjoyed reading this. I've just embarked on putting the Jaguar engine into a 3 door Sierra. The first hurdle on the Sierra is sump clearance. The AJ30 from S Type Jaguar has the deepest part of the sump and the pickup at the very front of the engine. Are there alternative sumps on these engines does anyone know? Options are to try to persuade Rocketeer the MX5 people to part with one of their very smart ones or go down the dry sump path which will add a hefty cost!
I'm using a x type sump in my car,much better shape than the s-type.Bare in mind you need the x type pick up to go with the sump!
I've added some baffles to the standard plate just incase of any surge issues using a transverse sump on a longitudinal engine.
Coskev said:
.............I've added some baffles to the standard plate just in case of any surge issues using a transverse sump on a longitudinal engine....
Wouldn't it be the other way around? Isn't surge more of a problem on a transverse engine where there is a constant side to side movement as the car turns?v8s4me said:
Coskev said:
.............I've added some baffles to the standard plate just in case of any surge issues using a transverse sump on a longitudinal engine....
Wouldn't it be the other way around? Isn't surge more of a problem on a transverse engine where there is a constant side to side movement as the car turns?Coskev said:
What about forward and backwards under braking and hard acceleration?
I don't think you would come anywhere near loosing oil pump suction during braking or acceleration with a properly topped up oil level. It would also take a seriously long bend at high speed to do the same, probably only on a track day. magpies said:
Coskev said:
What about forward and backwards under braking and hard acceleration?
I don't think you would come anywhere near loosing oil pump suction during braking or acceleration with a properly topped up oil level. It would also take a seriously long bend at high speed to do the same, probably only on a track day. Which is what mine is now.
For a hours work and some stainless steel it's a no brainer for peace of mind.
Fitting a standard sump to a car with hardly any body roll that can carry easily double the speed of the standard car the engine came out of through a corner is a risk.
Had a slight 
problem with sighting a speed sensor for the speedometer (the gearbox sensor not working and impossible to get at). First attempt was to mount the sensor on the chassis and looking at the drive shaft bolt heads. I had purchased a sensor with the largest scanning gap I could = 4mm - as I drove slowly to where my measured mile is it suddenly stopped working as I accelerated out of a junction. Bugger, drove home and checked it out - the drive shaft/diff moves quite a distance and wiped out the end of the sensor.
phillpot has come to the rescue and given me a one he had in his Aladdin's Cave. I've just fitted it along with a redesigned bracket now mounted on the diff itself - so should move with that end of the driveshaft. It obviously has a very much shorter sensor range as it would not work until slightly closer than 2mm to the bolt heads (quite close then!) But it does work and I'll set the speedo tomorrow when back from work.
problem with sighting a speed sensor for the speedometer (the gearbox sensor not working and impossible to get at). First attempt was to mount the sensor on the chassis and looking at the drive shaft bolt heads. I had purchased a sensor with the largest scanning gap I could = 4mm - as I drove slowly to where my measured mile is it suddenly stopped working as I accelerated out of a junction. Bugger, drove home and checked it out - the drive shaft/diff moves quite a distance and wiped out the end of the sensor. phillpot has come to the rescue and given me a one he had in his Aladdin's Cave. I've just fitted it along with a redesigned bracket now mounted on the diff itself - so should move with that end of the driveshaft. It obviously has a very much shorter sensor range as it would not work until slightly closer than 2mm to the bolt heads (quite close then!) But it does work and I'll set the speedo tomorrow when back from work.
GreenV8S said:
That doesn't look like the heftiest bracket in the world - watch out for resonance issues. (Had similar with my crank sensor bracket.)
Yeah did think that too - only thing I can do no is to lay some plastic metal along the top face. (I did ensure I had left a small mount of the 90deg corner along the bracket (started as a length of angle iron) to keep some anti bend strength.
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