Battery measurement

Battery measurement

Author
Discussion

MartinBrown2409

Original Poster:

65 posts

109 months

Wednesday 16th January 2019
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Evening all, having spent a few hours freeing the hinge pivot bolts and nuts on my S2 bonnet with the aim of adjusting so that it fits a lot better. I have discovered that the battery terminal is actually fowling the bonnet. There is no more movement in the battery tray to get the battery back further so I am guessing that the wrong battery has been fitted at some stage. Is there a particular model of battery that others use as “the bible” mentions the crank capacity is important.
Thanks

phillpot

17,116 posts

183 months

Thursday 17th January 2019
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Lots of suggestions if you search back through old posts. one to get you started

Bit more "Googling" will get you some dimensions, looks like you don't want to go over 220mm high




Final thought scratchchin it's not sat on a thick rubber pad, is it?

mentall

453 posts

130 months

Thursday 17th January 2019
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When I picked up the free V6 engine from blues3 back in 2016, he told me that when it was in his car the battery/bonnet clearance was less than marginal, and his bonnet had a star crack in the gelcoat at that point.

When I got home I checked mine, and sure enough there was zero clearance between the battery and the bonnet, and the gel (inside only) was cracked!

So I moved the batt. to the back of its tray, fitted a packer in front, and secured the battery rather better with a ratchet strap (that blues3 had given me to secure the engine in transit!).

Looking at it now, it should be easily possible to drop the tray an inch by slotting/redrilling the mounting holes. The only problem would be the right-angled bracket which is on top of the swirlpot base, and that would need to go under the swirlpot base, which has a gusset that might need to be ground away. There's plenty of height over the top spring mount plates.

If it's any help, my batt. is a Yuasa 069, and the offending corner is about 180 high (or 200 to the top of the connector)

MartinBrown2409

Original Poster:

65 posts

109 months

Thursday 17th January 2019
quotequote all
Thanks to both for your replies. I think i need to understand how to use the search option on pistonheads as there is so much information that isnt relevant that i lose the will... The battery thats fitted now is the same size as Phillpot recommends but i have the exact same issues as Mentall. There is a very small star crack in the paintwork directly above where the positive terminal is. Having placed a piece of paper on top and shut the bonnet, with the wheel and inner wing protection removed i can just grab the paper and it wont move so the bonnet is actually sitting directly on the terminal, the swirlpot only just misses as well but i guess that's the design. My battery measures 220 to the top of connector so it looks as though the battery you suggest would save a lot of pain apart from the wallet being lighter....

mentall

453 posts

130 months

Thursday 17th January 2019
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Don't use PH search: it's useless!

Google search: <<"Words you want to search for" S Series sitetongue outistonheads.com>>

Never fails!

Perhaps someone can tell me where tongue out comes from? It replaces "colon p".


Edited by mentall on Thursday 17th January 15:27

phillpot

17,116 posts

183 months

Thursday 17th January 2019
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Battery in boot, problem solved ............ clicky

Bercilac

295 posts

69 months

Friday 18th January 2019
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I've just bought a Bosch 4004 075 battery for my 1988 S1 restoration project.

It fits like a glove - 540 amps cranking, I just need to find what I did with the original clamp, although it's getting a nice bright orange ratchet strap as well.

It was £66 inc vat and delivery from Tayna Batteries.

glenrobbo

35,253 posts

150 months

Saturday 19th January 2019
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Just a thought on this battery terminal post/ bonnet interference issue:

It is not unknown for the plywood bonnet webs to deteriorate where the bonnet hinge spreader plates are bolted to them.
When the.plywood gets soggy or rots, the bonnet can drop lower at the front end than it should, fouling on the battery terminal and /or swirl pot cap. Eventually thus can result in star cracking.

Ideally the bonnet to body shut line should be even from front to rear.

Make sure your plywood webs are sound where the bonnet hinges are bolted to them.

MartinBrown2409

Original Poster:

65 posts

109 months

Saturday 19th January 2019
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Hi, have realigned bonnet, hinges needed a fair bit of heat to undo bolts. Have lifted it slightly higher, it all lines up and shuts easy now with no excessive force.
Still only a few millimetres gap from top of posited battery terminal to under bonnet so am in middle of dropping battery tray as there is plenty of room to do so. Fitted 22mm sleeved spacer under swirl pot to take the bracket on battery tray, re drilled 14 mm hole in bracket under tray and 7mm new hole on other bracket. Plenty of room now. Was tempted to fit in boot but chose the above method.,Hopefully tomorrow will see all up and rinning again.