Saving an S1

[88S1]

These seem to be the correct ones for the 2.8. Very cost effective.

[88S1]

The silver box is this. Will do some research. It’s a plug in item so
May be worth plugging it in to see what happens.

Engine sounds like it wants to go, but when release key (I.e starter motor) doesn’t run. Like I mentioned, manifolds getting warm so something is happening.

[88S1]

Tried new control module thingy, no difference. Will wait for plugs and go again next weekend.

[88S1]

Thanks so much. Will watch them., Good to know anyway.

[88S1]

Fitted new plugs and coil hoping for the quick fix. No joy, it’s making exhaust fumes when under starter motor. but still doesn’t run. I don’t have the dash fitted so no gauges to check oil pressure etc, but did a compression test, getting 125 on LH side (1,2,3) and 150 on RH side (4,5,6)

Read in one post somewhere the tachometer needs to be connected as the ignition runs through this, but for the life of me couldn’t find what it plugs into in the wiring loom (white 3 pin plug).

Also read on PH that the coil should have a positive power supply when ignition is on, its position when under starter motor, but not with just the ignition on. Can anyone confirm if it should have power as that may be the issue.

Timing is definitely there or there abouts, when I twist 5 or 10 degrees either way there is no firing at all, then back to centre and it sounds like it wants to go, just won’t run when I release the key.

If I don’t activate the imobiliser it won’t let me turn the engine over, so that doesn’t seem to be the cause.

Any thoughts appreciated.

[88S1]

I’ve checked it on the compression stroke at least 5 times, and also tried it 180 degrees just to check. At 180 degrees there’s nothing at all.

I have a fuel pressure testing kit that some one has let me use. Will test that next before pulling bits off. Both manifolds get warm so getting fuel to some cylinders.

[88S1]

Ok, hopefully some progress.

Cleaned the gauze filter on the warm up regulator, slight bit of sediment in it

But hopefully the big find was the plunger sticking in the fuel distributor. Wouldn’t budge when i checked it. managed to free it and now operating smoothly. The O ring between the distributor and the plenum housing had split too. Ran out of time today, but hopefully the sticking plunger was the cause of the no running engine. Fingers crossed.

[88S1]

Nope. Have taken the Warm up regulator apart, nothing looked to be an issue. Getting 25 ohms in the resistor, filter cleaned from inside out. It doesn’t get warm with just the ignition on.

I’m getting 0.5 bar fuel pressure with the ignition on at the WUR.(which is correct) But when I manually press the cap on the diaphragm it doesn’t go up to what I believe should be 3.5 bar. And I’m getting no fuel in the return pipe from the WUR. I don’t know if the pressure will only rise if the engine is running, and if fuel only comes through the return for the same reason.

[88S1]

Thanks for the explanation. The 25ohm was in the warm up regulator bimetallic strip. And that’s exactly what it should be. I just don’t know how to make it get warm.

Going to have a look at the inhibition. Someone on FB was having an issue and it was the ignition switch causing the issue.

Have had the fuel distributor soaking for 24 hours and now ultrasonically cleaned, that may have been partially blocked.

Round 5.

[88S1]

Success at last. Running very rough but running. Had to bypass the ignition by putting the positive from the battery to the coil, so need to resolve that. Think it’s something to do with the tacho not being connected as the dash is out but for the life of me cant find what it plugs into around the steering column. So need to do some research on that. Such a relief to hear it run at last.

Can move forward now at least.

[88S1]

WotnoV8 said:

Great news. Got to be a huge relief to have it running at last even if a bit on the rough side.

Very much so having never seen it ever running, And having the engine in bits. So very happy.

[88S1]

v8s4me said:

Congratulations!!

So the problem was electrical after all then? That's great news and hopefully you'll be able to tune the fuel injection without too much trouble.

Check the wiring diagram to see what other connections there are to the tacho. If the dash isn't connected what have you done about the ignition indicator light? The alternator needs the resistance from the bulb to work properly.

It wouldn’t/doesn’t run without this solution, but WUR and Fuel Distibuter did need a clean out having found a bit of grudge in both. Haven’t seen the ignition light mentioned before, where is it??

I need to find what the 3 pin female plug in the tacho comments to as there isn’t one in the wiring around the steering column, and don’t remember disconnecting it to be honest, I put masking tape around the Speedo one, so would have done same for tacko if there was a plug. I do seem to have a black and red wire spare in the cables that look to have been cut, but no white. I’ll temp refit the dash and try make sense of it.

I don’t seem to have any voltage on the ignition switch terminals in run position. But that may be due to the above or maybe a faulty ignition switch. I don’t have any voltage on the coil in run position either (hence the bypass)

But it runs, that’s the main thing. Need to connect the exhaust up properly and let it run for a while and get to full heat before I put the bonnet back on and check for any leaks etc.

Edited by 88S1 on Sunday 23 April 21:40

[88S1]

No. Still very lumpy, tried to get a mechanic round but he let me down. Working on smartening the dash, clocks and door panels at the moment ready to refit.

[88S1]

henrytvr said:

Just read this whole thread and hats off to you for the work you have put in! Hope it gets on the road soon!

Thanks. It’s been a bit of a journey that’s for sure. Needs a big final push now to get it finished off. Interior panels and dash now re-coated and sealed and looking good again.

[88S1]

Read in a few places that bad connections on the ballast resistor cable can cause lumpy running. Found mine and the connections were a bit crusty, So a worthy exercise.

Here’s a picture of it if anyone is looking for it the the future. Left hand side near the wheel arch.

[88S1]

Interestingly you must have the Rev counter connected for the engine to run. Without it connected as soon as you release the key the engine stops.

So engine running, and a lot less lumpy now, Not perfect and maybe some injectors need replacing, everything else has had some gunk in it so it’s fair to assume the injectors are gunned up too.

But a least it’s running in its own. Fan doesn’t kick in, so need a new otter switch. Fan is ok when otter switch bypassed.

[88S1]

greymrj said:

That is very likely. When I restored mine after it had been unused for at least 5 years there was the same evidence of 'gunk' around. Unless all 6 injectors are working pretty well identically it wont run well. I sent mine to Mr Injector. Under test there was a BIG difference in performance, well outside the tolerance, he sent me the test results. All were cleaned and returned with new seals. BIG difference!!
https://www.mrinjectoruk.co.uk/

I have an ultrasonic bath. I Just don’t fancy taking the top end off again to get to them as have 100 other jobs to do. Will see if I can get it running another still when the other jobs are done.

[88S1]

Bit more progress in last few weeks. Trying to sort electrics before dash goes back in. Wipers and heater fan not working. Found out why.

Wipers stripped and will be fine, but need new blower.

[88S1]

I’ll have to see if I can improve the seal then somehow.

The blower is unsalvageable, new Delco replacement are very expensive. Seen on here the Ford KA one can be made to fit. Any other options anyone has had success with.

Unless anyone has one for sale.

[88S1]

Thanks Mike. Looks promising.