Bonnet catch

[Elfit]

One of my bonnet catches does not grip the pin sufficiently meaning that the bonnet rattles around.

We've tried all sorts to remedy this but to no avail. It appears that the bolts don't want to be undone and anyway I've lost confidence in that sort of catch anyway. The roads up here are so bumpy that I want something more secure to hold the bonnet down.

So what would you suggest?

I think Mike (Phillpot) has Aero catches.

Many thanks

Tim

[GreenV8S]

Elfit said:

We've tried all sorts to remedy this but to no avail. It appears that the bolts don't want to be undone

Have you adjusted the bonnet pin correctly?

[Steve_D]

You probably have little choice than something that is visible on the outside.
Not convinced aero catches look right. Short leather straps could work.

Steve

[Elfit]

GreenV8S said:

Have you adjusted the bonnet pin correctly?

Yes, It's the other part that's the problem. It doesn't close properly.

[AxemanS]

Try taking the catches out and cleaning them thoroughly - mine were not travelling the full distance ( and so weren’t closing properly ) as there was dust and grit hardened grease towards the outer edges of the catch stopping the slider moving to it’s full extent.

[Elfit]

AxemanS said:

Try taking the catches out and cleaning them thoroughly - mine were not travelling the full distance ( and so weren’t closing properly ) as there was dust and grit hardened grease towards the outer edges of the catch stopping the slider moving to it’s full extent.

Thanks. How did you take yours out? We ( I say "we" but really mean trusted friend Michael) have tried attacking it from the underside but dare not apply any more pressure as nut appears to be ceased.

[AxemanS]

Plenty of WD 40, upside down in the footwell with a well fitting slim socket and a ratchet handle. Some of them have had mastic applied around them which is best cut out carefully with a stanley knife before trying to unbolt ( one of mine was the other wasn’t ).

[GreenV8S]

Some cars have an inner panel that stops you getting to the catch. If you can get to yours, it's just a couple of bolts. Given that your next option is to stop using those latches, you have nothing to lose by removing and cleaning them. Mine had got quite badly gummed up over the years. It's quite likely yours are the same and will work fine once the latch and cable are cleaned.

[Elfit]

Success!
After a few days soaking in plusgas and using a long bar I have managed to undo the bolts.
Even with the catch mechanism off the car the bolts are still extremely stiff to turn.
Should they just drop out? Is the mastic holding them in or are the screwed into something else?

I need to replace the cable. In fact it was the cable that was stopping the catch closing properly. I have some bicycle brake cables handy so will probably use one of those.

The lever for the catch is totally rubbish!
Surely someone has come up with a better system.....

Cheers

Tim

[phillpot]

Steve_D said:

Not convinced aero catches look right.

Well shabby....................

[greymrj]

Hi Tim, like others I have had to take mine off and clean and 'fettle' them to make them work properly again. No wonder they didnt work properly with the sealant paint and muck around.

Make sure they slide so easily that the spring will return them properly, I changed the springs to get them more positive.
When putting back be careful if you use any sealant. There is supposed to be sealant round the cable mounting but otherwise sealant is likely to interfere with an easy return. I did find on mine that, where they were cut by TVR, the sliding section protruded a bit at the side and I was able to file a useful amount off.

Water that gets into the recess for the lock is supposed to drain out through a little hole into the engine bay. If that isnt blocked up I will be surprised!

The bolts holding the locks in just get corrosion and muck on them, tap them down from above, clean and waxoyl when you put them back.

Agreed the bonnet pull handle is awful! Take it off and make sure it hasn't come loose and that the pivot hasnt got too much 'slop' in it. Behind it the outer cable should feed into two small cable adjusters, long time since they had moved on mine but they do now.

I used two bike brake cables and joined them with an electrical 'chocolate block'. I cut a flat on the nylon wheel for the chocolate block, one cable going from the top the other from the bottom. Awkward but I can slide them through the chocolate block to get the basic adjustment right.

Incidentally, probably no point in putting in a new cable inner unless you fit a new a bike cable outer as well. If the cables are original the outer will be in a bad way and will still restrict free movement of the lock slide. The new outers are nylon lined so do not corrode. Make sure when you fit the new inner that the nipple at the lock end isnt going to catch and restrict free movement. I had to file them down a bit.

All in all a 5min job that took about 2 days!!! But they work now, no rattles, very positive, and no more sign of the bonnet trying to pop free or stick down.

[Elfit]

Thanks Richard. That's a really useful post.
I'm currently a day and a half into the 5 minute job...
The bolts won't drop out but will be fine where they are. New cable inner and outer installed where needed.
I'm having problems joining the cables at the mo. The "chocolate block" is not really up to the job. It works for one or two "pulls" then the cables slip through. I'm on the look out for a more robust and permanent fix.

Cheers
Tim

Edited by Elfit on Monday 15th July 11:20

[Steve_D]

Elfit said:

.................I'm having problems joining the cables at the mo. The "chocolate block" is not really up to the job. It works for one or two "pulls" then the cables slip through. I'm on the look out for a more robust and permanent fix...............

If you are trying to join two cables end to end then take each cable through the block then double the tail back through the block forming a U bend in each cable which will be difficult to pull back through. Doubly so if you put a washer in the U bend.

Steve

[greymrj]

chocolate block which is a close fit for the two cables as shown on following has worked well for me. Not the prettiest job I have done but bonnet pull works well now.






Slight mistake in my post above, forgot, there are TWO drain holes for the bonnet catch each side, see following. Theoretically there is no need to mastic seal round the catch at all, because those drains are there. In practice however I have sealed mine to reduce the water the drains have to deal with and reduce the amount of muck that gets in. But do NOT put sealant on the forward part of the catch, in operation the sliding part moves in and out and sealant would be likely to impede it. Blow out with an airline occasionally to keep them clean.

[v8s4me]

I had a similar problem a few years back and as you've found, removing all the sealant cures it. I used THIS STUFF to seal arounf the catch. Much neater than sealant and does the job.

(At least I think it was the 6mm one; it may have been the 10mm but Woolies are happy to send out samples so you can check which one best suits your car.)

[Elfit]

Many thanks all.

Problem solved with double choc box and neoprene cord.
Drain plugs had been silconed up.

Took some time but got there in end. ( Daughter's wedding stopped play for a while too)

Cheers

Tim

[JohnGBUK]

We had problems with our bonnet on the S1 when we bought the car, it kept coming unlocked when driving over speed humps. The problem was caused by the bonnet being incorrectly adjusted on the front pivot hinges, the front wings were fouling the bonnet.