Injector wiring loom
Discussion
MisterTee said:
Thinking about it, none of the plugs were wet when I took them out, which could also suggest fuelling.
Other than changing the injector loom, what else could I try?
Many thanks
Andy
Other than changing the injector loom, what else could I try?
Many thanks
Andy
Penelope Stopit said:
RayTVR said:
Hi Andy,
Do you know if its definitely the loom at fault? I have a 'star tester' box which can be useful for doing a wiggle test to help isolate intermittent connections which you'd be welcome to borrow
This is the way forwardDo you know if its definitely the loom at fault? I have a 'star tester' box which can be useful for doing a wiggle test to help isolate intermittent connections which you'd be welcome to borrow
You could make a test lamp using a 60 Watt headlamp bulb which will draw 5 Amps through a circuit
- *Disconnect Injectors and ECU so as not to burn anything out***
Most good/new injectors will draw less than 1 Amp and I doubt any good/new injectors will draw 2 Amps or more
If the loom you are using is breaking down when carrying less than 1 Amp injector current, the loom will definitely break down when attempting to carry 5 Amps test lamp current
Good luck in finding the fault.....they're a pain
Well, after how many Sundays of rain, I finally managed to get the car out of the garage so that I could try and trace my problems with the use of a Star Tester, kindly loaned by @RayTVR 👍
Without the engine running, the star tester shows two error codes - 16 and 12 :-
16 - Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault
12 - Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly
Sadly I wasn’t able to run the test with the car running due to the battery going flat (note to self!) before I managed to get the thing to fire.
Also, the injector loom that Ray also loaned me did not fit due to different connectors (see pics below).
So, apart from stating the obvious (the problem is electronic ignition and ISCV), anyone got any suggestions as to where I should start with this please?
Ta
Andy
Injector loom connectors (my car)
Borrowed loom
Without the engine running, the star tester shows two error codes - 16 and 12 :-
16 - Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault
12 - Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly
Sadly I wasn’t able to run the test with the car running due to the battery going flat (note to self!) before I managed to get the thing to fire.
Also, the injector loom that Ray also loaned me did not fit due to different connectors (see pics below).
So, apart from stating the obvious (the problem is electronic ignition and ISCV), anyone got any suggestions as to where I should start with this please?
Ta
Andy
Injector loom connectors (my car)
Borrowed loom
Injector loom was bought as a spare and I've never tried it
I have a spare ISCV (which I have tested and know works), but I don't think this sounds like the issue (normally a faulty ISCV just mucks up the idle)
The IDM signal is a monitor back to the ECU which tells it that ignition is firing and is used as a feedback to help the timing.
The signal comes form the ignition amplifier - mounted on the side of the distributor. Maybe start by checking wiring here looks ok and nothings loose or not connected?
I have a spare ISCV (which I have tested and know works), but I don't think this sounds like the issue (normally a faulty ISCV just mucks up the idle)
The IDM signal is a monitor back to the ECU which tells it that ignition is firing and is used as a feedback to help the timing.
The signal comes form the ignition amplifier - mounted on the side of the distributor. Maybe start by checking wiring here looks ok and nothings loose or not connected?
MisterTee said:
Any other ideas on this really welcomed
MisterTee said:
Been and had a poke about this morning and the full near side bank of cylinders are not firing at all. Whipped the plugs out and gave them a clean, but no different.
MisterTee said:
Thinking about it, none of the plugs were wet when I took them out
MisterTee said:
Without the engine running, the star tester shows two error codes - 16 and 12 :-
16 - Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault
12 - Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly
16 - Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault
12 - Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly
MisterTee said:
So, apart from stating the obvious (the problem is electronic ignition and ISCV), anyone got any suggestions as to where I should start with this please?
Ignoring 16 - Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault for the time beingHave a hunch what's happening, wish the car was here to prove it
Looking at the below diagram found here in these forums some time in the past
The idle speed control connects to one bank of injectors signal cable
There is a diode in parallel with the idle speed control that will very likely be in the loom
One bank of injectors will cease to operate if the idle speed control is going short or semi short circuit, its wiring going short circuit or the above mentioned diode is short circuit or wired the wrong way around
Hoping that the above helps find and solves the problem, should the problem not be due to any of the above mentioned, a short circuit on the same injector banks signal cable will cause the injectors and idle speed control to fail
Due to the loom being new, DIODE problem is setting off the alarm in my head
Glad to possibly be of some help
A Fault like this can be a nightmare for the likes of yourself, a multimeter will show the fault if it is as mentioned above
A good first test.......
Disconnect the ECU and idle speed control and check the resistance of one bank of injectors and then the other bank, the readings should be similar if not exact (length of cables come into play)
As shown in below diagram, Injector relay, fuel pump relay and injectors supply cable all join up in the loom, there are two other cables at this same joint that go to ECU Pins 37 and 57
Let's use ECU Pin 57 to help with testing as it's accessible with ECU disconnected
One bank of injectors are connected between ECU Pins 57 and 58
Other bank of injectors are connected between ECU Pins 57 and 59
With ECU and idle speed control disconnected, check resistance of each injector bank
Resistance between ECU Pins 57 and 58 = ?
Resistance between ECU Pins 57 and 59 = ?
You need to know all is good with the above tests before looking into the diode, but.......
The diode prevents a voltage produced by an electro magnetic field (EMF) created and broken when the valve is switched on and off travelling back to the ECU and damaging it (exactly the same as relays that have a diode or resistor across their coils do)
XXXXXXX Below Not Recommended XXXXXXX
Hence, going by the above, the diode could be removed and the circuit still possibly work
Not a good idea though as ECU's aren't cheap
Now wondering if the diode has been fitted and wired as it could be easily missed out
Good luck in finding the problem, the above information may help if someone is going to be assisting you with testing
A Fault like this can be a nightmare for the likes of yourself, a multimeter will show the fault if it is as mentioned above
A good first test.......
Disconnect the ECU and idle speed control and check the resistance of one bank of injectors and then the other bank, the readings should be similar if not exact (length of cables come into play)
As shown in below diagram, Injector relay, fuel pump relay and injectors supply cable all join up in the loom, there are two other cables at this same joint that go to ECU Pins 37 and 57
Let's use ECU Pin 57 to help with testing as it's accessible with ECU disconnected
One bank of injectors are connected between ECU Pins 57 and 58
Other bank of injectors are connected between ECU Pins 57 and 59
With ECU and idle speed control disconnected, check resistance of each injector bank
Resistance between ECU Pins 57 and 58 = ?
Resistance between ECU Pins 57 and 59 = ?
You need to know all is good with the above tests before looking into the diode, but.......
The diode prevents a voltage produced by an electro magnetic field (EMF) created and broken when the valve is switched on and off travelling back to the ECU and damaging it (exactly the same as relays that have a diode or resistor across their coils do)
XXXXXXX Below Not Recommended XXXXXXX
Hence, going by the above, the diode could be removed and the circuit still possibly work
Not a good idea though as ECU's aren't cheap
Now wondering if the diode has been fitted and wired as it could be easily missed out
Good luck in finding the problem, the above information may help if someone is going to be assisting you with testing
May help, shows idle valve diode in loom (Ford 2.9)
http://www.gbsportscar.com/TVR%20Body%20Off/wiring...
http://www.gbsportscar.com/TVR%20Body%20Off/wiring...
You live, all is not lost then
Had a thought today between wine breaks that the plug on the valve was possibly the same as the injector plugs and has been connected to an injector but
Don't know if they are the same plugs
Wouldn't explain how it ran ok on the rolling road and deteriorated later, unless something was disconnected for other work and not put back correctly
Anyway, hate unsolved problems like this, the answers out there somewhere or in here
Good luck and all the best
Had a thought today between wine breaks that the plug on the valve was possibly the same as the injector plugs and has been connected to an injector but
Don't know if they are the same plugs
Wouldn't explain how it ran ok on the rolling road and deteriorated later, unless something was disconnected for other work and not put back correctly
Anyway, hate unsolved problems like this, the answers out there somewhere or in here
Good luck and all the best
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