Dash board veneer removal
Discussion
Just doing a re-veneer of my v8s. It took me a morning to get both panels out and about 10 mins to clean the old veneer and glue off.
I suppose you could get most of the veneer off in place, a fair amount of mine had self-stripped itself off anyway. But you’d risk damaging the surrounding vinyl. However to clean the metal backing plate would be nearly impossible. And replacing with any sort of finish would definitely be impossible.
The removal of the panels also gave me a chance to clean and repair switches, illumination etc.
However I still have to get it all back together yet. That will be the challenging part, I think. (Everything comes apart once!)
I suppose you could get most of the veneer off in place, a fair amount of mine had self-stripped itself off anyway. But you’d risk damaging the surrounding vinyl. However to clean the metal backing plate would be nearly impossible. And replacing with any sort of finish would definitely be impossible.
The removal of the panels also gave me a chance to clean and repair switches, illumination etc.
However I still have to get it all back together yet. That will be the challenging part, I think. (Everything comes apart once!)
Hi Ric,
Mine is also the V8s and I work for a little know bespoke car manufacturer in Goodwood. This gives me access to some very talented people that can recover a dash in to perfection. But to do this I need to take the dash to them. I have got the switch panel of with ease but need to remove the dash to take them in for repair. Is the dash removable without taking the whole thing out? Is so any tips on how to achieve this?
Regards Rob
Mine is also the V8s and I work for a little know bespoke car manufacturer in Goodwood. This gives me access to some very talented people that can recover a dash in to perfection. But to do this I need to take the dash to them. I have got the switch panel of with ease but need to remove the dash to take them in for repair. Is the dash removable without taking the whole thing out? Is so any tips on how to achieve this?
Regards Rob
Unfortunately not as far as I know as the speedo/rev counter pod is mounted on the back of the panel so need to be unattached. I used this as a guide but the v8s is slightly different:
http://www.andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/dashpanels.html
However several of the securing bolts on the reverse of the dash were already unattached or broke off. They appear to be just araldited on so I can glue the back on when it goes back in. I just needed very bendy hands and arms to access the nuts.
I also did not remove the wheel arch or steering column, just the top and bottom covering on the column with the steering wheel removed.
Enjoy!
http://www.andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/dashpanels.html
However several of the securing bolts on the reverse of the dash were already unattached or broke off. They appear to be just araldited on so I can glue the back on when it goes back in. I just needed very bendy hands and arms to access the nuts.
I also did not remove the wheel arch or steering column, just the top and bottom covering on the column with the steering wheel removed.
Enjoy!
Edited by ric p on Saturday 15th February 10:55
Rsedmonds said:
.... Is the dash removable without taking the whole thing out? Is so any tips on how to achieve this?.....
No! Sorry but there is no alternative to the only true initiation rite to 'S' ownership. There are many, many posts on this topic going back years so you should be able to find all the information you need right here on good old fashioned Pistonheads. Much more useful than lots of "likes" on that other media
Post up here if you get stuck.
I hope you point out to your mates at work that your TVR is a real British made car unlike the ugly lump of foreign components they lovingly assemble
A quick update. Got the dash and auxiliary panel out and sent off to Lee at L&S Veneering. He is going to return sometime 5his week, I hope. I have asked him to set the v8s script in the LH end for a bit of fun as TVRChimp500 had done:
|https://thumbsnap.com/5UVu78DI[/url]
This then let me with spaghetti to tidy up:
[url]
I was also able to strip out 2 alarm systems and a cd multichanger cable that were surplus to requirement. And a lot of dead stuff.
I also got the chance to sort the heater controls, which had never functioned. It turns out that the cables has seized in their sheathing. Thus one had cone adrift from the slider, the other had bent the cable. Once freed and lubricated both appear to function smoothly so hopefully.... I always remember my previous TVRs having simple but effective heating.
Most excitingly (!) however, I found someone to make some new v8s decals for the doors. Kindly a couple of people forwarded me pictures as templates but I decided to go for something a bit more TVR font-like. So a quiet night at work and Adobe Illustrator later:
Dan at Divine Handcraft then cut/printed 2 for less than a tenner. Very pleased.
So plenty to do before the summer proper arrives and we are let out to play.
|https://thumbsnap.com/5UVu78DI[/url]This then let me with spaghetti to tidy up:
[url]I was also able to strip out 2 alarm systems and a cd multichanger cable that were surplus to requirement. And a lot of dead stuff.
I also got the chance to sort the heater controls, which had never functioned. It turns out that the cables has seized in their sheathing. Thus one had cone adrift from the slider, the other had bent the cable. Once freed and lubricated both appear to function smoothly so hopefully.... I always remember my previous TVRs having simple but effective heating.
Most excitingly (!) however, I found someone to make some new v8s decals for the doors. Kindly a couple of people forwarded me pictures as templates but I decided to go for something a bit more TVR font-like. So a quiet night at work and Adobe Illustrator later:
Dan at Divine Handcraft then cut/printed 2 for less than a tenner. Very pleased.
So plenty to do before the summer proper arrives and we are let out to play.
It’s arrived back. Looks fantastic and how do I get it back together without scratching it? Just a quick glance tells me I need triple jointed spaghetti arms.
The real challenge looks like getting the heater controller attached with the cable in place on the back as you can’t pull it out far enough to get the nuts on.
Maybe a locally authorised modification coming up.
The real challenge looks like getting the heater controller attached with the cable in place on the back as you can’t pull it out far enough to get the nuts on.
Maybe a locally authorised modification coming up.
Edited by ric p on Monday 4th May 17:09
ric p said:
.... how do I get it back together without scratching it? Just a quick glance tells me I need triple jointed spaghetti arms. .......The real challenge looks like getting the heater controller attached with the cable in place on the back as you can’t pull it out far enough to get the nuts on.....
Hopefully you trimmed the edged down with a file so that the dash is a nice sliding fit back into the moulding. If you managed to get the plate off without pulling the dash moulding forward then you'll need to pull it forward now. This will give you more access and make connecting the heater cables a bit less difficult.Which ever way you go, get mate to help you. An extra pair of hands will make all the difference.
Good luck
Actually less painful than I thought it would be.
A bit of superleggera action around the heater control hole to widen it (and lighten the car) allows the whole connected up unit to pull out and then you can attach both the heater and instrument pod easily with the dash on its side.
The rest was double jointed easy, I didn’t even think of filing the metal to ease refinement. Fortunately, mine must have been fibreglassed to a xl size, so it just popped back in. The more observant will notice a dash attachment fixing still in place. There is no way on God’s green earth that I could get to the back of it to undo originally, let alone do it up. So it remains in place. The result looks pretty good with just the spaghetti wiring to make disappear once I get the auxiliary panel in. Before then out with the soldering iron and shrink wrap as I cannot stand the sight of chocolatebox connectors.
A bit of superleggera action around the heater control hole to widen it (and lighten the car) allows the whole connected up unit to pull out and then you can attach both the heater and instrument pod easily with the dash on its side.
The rest was double jointed easy, I didn’t even think of filing the metal to ease refinement. Fortunately, mine must have been fibreglassed to a xl size, so it just popped back in. The more observant will notice a dash attachment fixing still in place. There is no way on God’s green earth that I could get to the back of it to undo originally, let alone do it up. So it remains in place. The result looks pretty good with just the spaghetti wiring to make disappear once I get the auxiliary panel in. Before then out with the soldering iron and shrink wrap as I cannot stand the sight of chocolatebox connectors.
Well done! Sounds like your one came out and went back in quite easily compared to others. Certainly compared to mine.
Not quite sure what you mean by
If you mean the thing with the 'X' on it, then you get to the back of that through the space left when the glove box is removed.
Anyway, a job well done and one you won't want to do again in a hurry.
Not quite sure what you mean by
ric p said:
.....A The more observant will notice a dash attachment fixing still in place. There is no way on God’s green earth that I could get to the back of it to undo originally, let alone do it up....]
The screws which hold the moulding to the tub (under the windscreen) can only be seen from underneath by lying on your back in the foot-well.If you mean the thing with the 'X' on it, then you get to the back of that through the space left when the glove box is removed.
Anyway, a job well done and one you won't want to do again in a hurry.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff