Subaru Power Steering in an S
Discussion
I had a recollection of somebody doing it - as I said, I don’t claim to be the first - but no amount of searching pointed to that thread. I think that can be a difficulty on PH where things can get lost in bigger threads - even reading 40-odd pages of the Chim thread can be confusing because later posts contradict what someone said 20 pages ago and not everybody is always right.
I think your points are helpful, such as:
And
What it does show is that there is more than one way to do this, and any info is helpful to those setting out to do this job!
I think your points are helpful, such as:
On that other thread Blue 30 said:
I researched and found that 90's Toyota Corolla track rod ends were the correct thread, the correct taper, and the correct length for tracking adjustments.
Oh how I wish I had known that!And
Blue 30 said:
Cut the other u/j off & discard then 'graft' the u/j with the stub onto the tvr column shaft. How you do that is your choice.... It's your life that will depend on it
I think you need to be VERY confident with welding (or know someone whose competence is as good as their confidence, which isn’t always the case) to take that chance. The Ka UJ option might be fiddly, but once it’s on, it’s on.What it does show is that there is more than one way to do this, and any info is helpful to those setting out to do this job!
Too true...
I wasn't the first either.
On such as welding the steering shaft onto the Scooby u/j. I apply an engineering 'belt & braces' principal.
In this case,
I squared off the Scooby round shaft.
Pressed a piece of thick walled tube also to a square section.
Inserted the shaft into the tube.
Drilled and inserted a high tensile steel drift pin through both.
Checked for true alignment, then welded.
So, if the weld did fail, I might get wobbly steering, but at least it will give me time to come to a halt safely.
Now then.... Do I trust that single little bolt holding the Sierra u/j clamp at the bulkhead end of the steering shaft ?
Sleep tight
T.
I wasn't the first either.
On such as welding the steering shaft onto the Scooby u/j. I apply an engineering 'belt & braces' principal.
In this case,
I squared off the Scooby round shaft.
Pressed a piece of thick walled tube also to a square section.
Inserted the shaft into the tube.
Drilled and inserted a high tensile steel drift pin through both.
Checked for true alignment, then welded.
So, if the weld did fail, I might get wobbly steering, but at least it will give me time to come to a halt safely.
Now then.... Do I trust that single little bolt holding the Sierra u/j clamp at the bulkhead end of the steering shaft ?
Sleep tight
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 24th June 13:15
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 24th June 13:15
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 24th June 13:19
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 24th June 13:20
I am another one who has been considering this for a while and slowly collecting bits. Your well documented write up will be invaluable and hopefully this will be a winter project.
Meantime would these be suitable pipe fittings https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360709155769?_trkparms=...
Meantime would these be suitable pipe fittings https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360709155769?_trkparms=...
Here's a photo of the JLS adapters in your link.
Here's the photo of the JLS adapters again.
If those are the ones that fit (according to the Chimaera boys) then I can see 2 possible problems with the ones in your link.
First, the actual tiny flare and o-ring that I've circled seems to be a slightly different shape, and I'm not sure if that is compatible. The man at Pirtek told me that you get a huge number of these type of connection, all different, and they don't always seal if you mix them up.
Second, the threads in the rack body don't go all the way down the hole. If you look at the distance from the end of the thread to the end of the connector (the red arrow) I don't think that the black connector would screw far enough in, to complete the connection. You might be able to file off the last 3 threads or so to make it reach - but the o-ring and flare are still different so I'm not convinced.
The Pirtek man said that the best option would be to get the original Subaru pipe ends and fit new hoses to those. Failing that, he said, use the copper washer recesses in the rack (even although Subaru themselves don't!), because that was likely to be the best guarantee for a proper seal. So far, he was right!
Here's the photo of the JLS adapters again.
If those are the ones that fit (according to the Chimaera boys) then I can see 2 possible problems with the ones in your link.
First, the actual tiny flare and o-ring that I've circled seems to be a slightly different shape, and I'm not sure if that is compatible. The man at Pirtek told me that you get a huge number of these type of connection, all different, and they don't always seal if you mix them up.
Second, the threads in the rack body don't go all the way down the hole. If you look at the distance from the end of the thread to the end of the connector (the red arrow) I don't think that the black connector would screw far enough in, to complete the connection. You might be able to file off the last 3 threads or so to make it reach - but the o-ring and flare are still different so I'm not convinced.
The Pirtek man said that the best option would be to get the original Subaru pipe ends and fit new hoses to those. Failing that, he said, use the copper washer recesses in the rack (even although Subaru themselves don't!), because that was likely to be the best guarantee for a proper seal. So far, he was right!
Edited by tvrgit on Friday 24th June 18:14
Can I have some advice please. I am having trouble removing the pinion housing from the rack. Both allan screws removed but it comes about 5mm then refuses to come further. I've tried gently tapping it but I am reluctant to use a bigger hammer. Should i slacken the large nut on the top of the rack which presumably preloads the rack against the pinion. (or will it be difficult to get it back to the right pressure on the rack. afterwards)
Lewdon1 said:
Can I have some advice please. I am having trouble removing the pinion housing from the rack. Both allan screws removed but it comes about 5mm then refuses to come further. I've tried gently tapping it but I am reluctant to use a bigger hammer. Should i slacken the large nut on the top of the rack which presumably preloads the rack against the pinion. (or will it be difficult to get it back to the right pressure on the rack. afterwards)
Don’t touch the big nut!maybe you just need to eat a Weetabix! Mine was was exactly the same, and hard to pull free, I needed a combination of twisting the pinion out of the teeth on the rack, and pulling. Maybe a wee lever twisted in the gap, careful not to damage the faces. Watch for all the wee shims in the recess inside - mine had 3.
Thanks gentlemen,
I Have now managed to turn it. I had to get it out about 15mm to get enough clearance to enable it to turn. It took a surprising amount of force to get it out that far, and even more force to get it back in. it may be my imagination but the rack seems tighter now, I hope i haven't dislodged the shims or damaged it in some other way. Still it still moves from lock to lock so fingers crossed.
I Have now managed to turn it. I had to get it out about 15mm to get enough clearance to enable it to turn. It took a surprising amount of force to get it out that far, and even more force to get it back in. it may be my imagination but the rack seems tighter now, I hope i haven't dislodged the shims or damaged it in some other way. Still it still moves from lock to lock so fingers crossed.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff