Replacement clutch slave cylinder needed?

[BuckeyeTVR]

I haven’t driven my S2 in some time and when I tried pressing down the clutch pedel this spring it would not budge. Stuck solid in the up position. After researching the forum I gathered it was likely the clutch slave cylinder they was the source of the issue.

I finally got round to jacking the driver side up today and I opened up the bleeder valve. With the valve still open I was able to push the pedal again. I then shut the valve again and now I’m still able to press the clutch and the operation is now fully restored but there is no noticeable friction like there used to be. Is that just due to air being in the line/low fluid levels at the moment?

In a normal situation I would just buy a new slave cylinder and replace it but I’m in the US and it would take some time to get a replacement. Since the pedal now moves, should I try bleeding the system, making sure the fluid levels are back to normal and then see if all is working or should I remove the cylinder and try cleaning it and reinstall? I’d like to see if I could get it working without a replacement part. I’ll probably buy one anyway so I have it here for when it does need replacing.

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

[phillpot]

Is the clutch working now, can you select gears and drive the car?

[BuckeyeTVR]

phillpot said:

Is the clutch working now, can you select gears and drive the car?

I have not tested that yet. I can remove the jack stands and give it a try. Since I lost some clutch fluid I wasn’t sure if I should try running it and testing the gears. When unscrewing the cap on the master cylinder I see the level went down a little but probably only 3/4” less than before.

I’ll try running today and see if gear changes work and will keep you posted. If that fixes it, I wonder what the reason for the stuck pedal was?

[magpies]

I would carry out a bleed first, then jack up the rear wheels (fit axle stands) then you can start the engine and try the clutch / gears in your garage/driveway.

[GreenV8S]

Sounds to me like the clutch slave cylinder has seized. You've got the pedal moving by draining the fluid out of the clutch line but the clutch is still not operating. There's an outside chance you will be able to dismantle the slave, clean the bore and assemble it with new seals - but unless you've done this type of work before I suggest you plan to replace it.

[phillpot]

Have you searched old posts on here for "clutch slave cylinder"?

Whatever was wrong with it, and whether it's working again or not, I would suggest you replace it.

Land Rover parts can be used, very cheap all you will need is a new pipe with different fittings. Can you get Land Rover parts easy over there?

[BuckeyeTVR]

phillpot said:

Have you searched old posts on here for "clutch slave cylinder"?

Whatever was wrong with it, and whether it's working again or not, I would suggest you replace it.

Land Rover parts can be used, very cheap all you will need is a new pipe with different fittings. Can you get Land Rover parts easy over there?

I did read through the older posts and those were very useful in narrowing down the issue to the slave cylinder. I also read that we can use the Land Rover defender TDi clutch slave cylinder but some alterations would need to be made. Do you know if Land Rover discovery or older LR series slave cylinders can be used? Those seem to be for sale here.

I have no problem in putting in a new pipe (maybe flex hydraulic hose instead of the copper pipe?) - should I then also replace the master cylinder and if so, would that also be the Land Rover parts? It does appear to be when looking at the alternative parts list.

[phillpot]

This is the number I have noted down, Land Rover Series 3

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_t...


And this for the Master cylinder (some suppliers selling as a pair)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_t...

[BuckeyeTVR]

Thanks, that is very useful. I’m thinking this set will work?
https://a.co/d/enhVnXw

[phillpot]

Yep, should do once they have them back in stock

[twdavies]

I fitted a LR one from Island 4x4 two years ago to my s2 and it’s working great. It was a defender one for around £28. I can’t remember the specific one I’m afraid but had a quick look and this may help.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-slave-cylinder...

[BuckeyeTVR]

Finally got the slave cylinder out. The top bolt was a pain to get to! To confirm, I should use this part with the new Land Rover slave cylinder?




I’ve ordered the two cylinders. I’m planning on using a flexible braided hose instead of the copper tubing. It sounds like I need about 3 feet of length. Does anyone have some specs on the hose they’ve used between master and slave cylinders?

[ChazUwe]

Might also be worth checking the current slave part number, as it might have already been changed in the past with a bit of luck!

[BuckeyeTVR]

ChazUwe said:

Might also be worth checking the current slave part number, as it might have already been changed in the past with a bit of luck!

Unfortunately not - it’s a Girling Q141 so that looks like the original part.

[phillpot]

BuckeyeTVR said:

To confirm, I should use this part with the new Land Rover slave cylinder?

Yes

[TVRees]

phillpot said:

Yes

Of course, it would be a shame to lose this wonderful piece of British/ TVR engineering.

[BuckeyeTVR]

TVRees said:

Of course, it would be a shame to lose this wonderful piece of British/ TVR engineering.

at least the replacement parts are British as well. Not anything shoddy and unreliable like Japanese or German!

[greymrj]

That pushrod tip looks in remarkably good condition, has it done a low mileage? The tips normally wear badly and can wear the clutch release arm badly, worth checking there are no rough edges before reassembling. You also need to free off that adjustment nut, which may also have seized, you may have to adjust with the new cylinder to ensure there is a tiny amount of free travel when the clutch is released.
I changed mine to series 3 Landrover some years ago, easy to get spares. although you will need to change the union fitting to the slave and get the pipe re flared. I did find the casting on the landrover one needed easing very slightly to fit the hole in the mounting, just a rough casting issue.
Those bolts are indeed a pain, having done someones else's at the roadside I changed the arrangement on mine. The nuts are now welded to the bracket and stainless socket head screws fitted. SO much easier to get a tool at them now!

[magpies]

I changed the pipe to a stainless steel flex hose the many race/rally teams use.

Similar to https://www.goodridge.co.uk/collections/buildaline...

[BuckeyeTVR]

greymrj said:

That pushrod tip looks in remarkably good condition, has it done a low mileage? The tips normally wear badly and can wear the clutch release arm badly, worth checking there are no rough edges before reassembling. You also need to free off that adjustment nut, which may also have seized, you may have to adjust with the new cylinder to ensure there is a tiny amount of free travel when the clutch is released.
I changed mine to series 3 Landrover some years ago, easy to get spares. although you will need to change the union fitting to the slave and get the pipe re flared. I did find the casting on the landrover one needed easing very slightly to fit the hole in the mounting, just a rough casting issue.
Those bolts are indeed a pain, having done someones else's at the roadside I changed the arrangement on mine. The nuts are now welded to the bracket and stainless socket head screws fitted. SO much easier to get a tool at them now!

Just under 61k miles so quite low considering the age. Thanks for the advice on sharp edges and adjustment nut. It looks to be fine in that regard and the nut came loose easier than expected.

I received both the master and slave today and removed the copper line. Now I just need to order the braided line with correct fittings. I’ll call around and see what I can find.

I would love to have the bolts welded to the bracket but I’m not able to do that myself. I bet that was a tricky job since you have to weld from below in that tight and awkward angle?