TVR S2 - Performance Query
Discussion
mentall said:
That's right: the Ignition module is at the back of the distributor body, with a multi-way connector coming off at the right-hand side.
Fordopedia says your ECU is for a:
GRANADA/SCORPIO MANUAL Engine: TV29EFI 1 - 12/88 6179811 86GB 12A650 AC. Hope this checks out!
At the ECU, the PIP signal (Profile Ignition Pickup) signal from the module comes in to ECU pin 56 on a blue/yellow wire.
The SPOUT (Spark Output) signal comes out of pin 36, and goes back to the module on a blue/red wire.
Warning: these colour codes are as on my car which is an S3C. A standard S3 (ie with Airflow meters) may have different colours; however the ECU pin connections will be correct: they are standard across all the EEC-IV engines.
You may have to alter the diagnostic connections: you'll be lucky to find a tester that plugs directly into the socket.
On Phillpot's picture above, Brown is +12V (ECU pins 40, 60)
Brown/green is STO (Self-test-output) (ECU pin 17) and also goes to the MIL warning light on the dashboard, if you have one.
Blue/green is STI (Self-test-input) (ECU pin 48).
These colour codes seem to be universal.
Good luck! I hope some of this is some help!
Many thanks for that, Mentall - I'll let you know how I get on with improving the beast before I attempt any code reading. Fordopedia says your ECU is for a:
GRANADA/SCORPIO MANUAL Engine: TV29EFI 1 - 12/88 6179811 86GB 12A650 AC. Hope this checks out!
At the ECU, the PIP signal (Profile Ignition Pickup) signal from the module comes in to ECU pin 56 on a blue/yellow wire.
The SPOUT (Spark Output) signal comes out of pin 36, and goes back to the module on a blue/red wire.
Warning: these colour codes are as on my car which is an S3C. A standard S3 (ie with Airflow meters) may have different colours; however the ECU pin connections will be correct: they are standard across all the EEC-IV engines.
You may have to alter the diagnostic connections: you'll be lucky to find a tester that plugs directly into the socket.
On Phillpot's picture above, Brown is +12V (ECU pins 40, 60)
Brown/green is STO (Self-test-output) (ECU pin 17) and also goes to the MIL warning light on the dashboard, if you have one.
Blue/green is STI (Self-test-input) (ECU pin 48).
These colour codes seem to be universal.
Good luck! I hope some of this is some help!
Thank you to everyone who has provided helpful suggestions and information to help me get to the bottom of my S2's performance issues.
In 2022 I :
a) cleaned and checked airflow meters/ air temperature readings with a voltmeter.
b) obtained an aftermarket TPS and checked voltages against Ford original - refitted original as no apparent difference.
c)cleaned idle stop control valve and refiitted - checked operation by disconnecting.
d)had valve clearances adjusted by local garage and new plugs fitted.
Result: performance still poor with v slow take-off and lack of power.
in 2023 I:
a) have cleaned interior of dizzy cap and removed serious oxidisation
b) checked all HT cvonnections.
c) removed spark plugs, wire brushed and adjusted gap.
d) with local garage adjusted timimg by the following procedure :
Timing check procedure:
1) Remove connector to TPS to simulate "code 60" - see Car Mechanics article Feb 1995 - https://www.gbsportscar.com/TVR%20Body%20Off/wirin...
2) Checked timing - showed 3 degrees BTDC.
3) Uncoupled what I had identified as octane adjustment socket (above photo), as required in Car Mechanics article. No -one commented but it seems that my picture is of the octane adjustment socket attached to the longer adjustment lead by which adjustments to run on unleaded are achieved. So in fact the octane adjustment had already been made with the result that having decoupled the parts:
4) Checked timing- had advanced to about 5degrees BTDC.
5) Reset timing to 12 degrees BTDC.
6) Reconnect octane adjustment socket - showed timing retarded again, I think to 6 degrees BTDC.
7)Reconnected TPS connector.
Result : Much smoother engine operation and a feeling as though there is some power there at last. At the moment, thanks to all your input, I am satisfied with the result, so I probably won't go down the code reader route just yet. Also just to note that the expert (Frank Massey) behind the article did not particularly recommend the use of a code reader, and thought conventional voltage readings more wortwhile, apart from achieving "code 60" for which I substituted the TPS connector workaround, also mentioned in the article.
In 2022 I :
a) cleaned and checked airflow meters/ air temperature readings with a voltmeter.
b) obtained an aftermarket TPS and checked voltages against Ford original - refitted original as no apparent difference.
c)cleaned idle stop control valve and refiitted - checked operation by disconnecting.
d)had valve clearances adjusted by local garage and new plugs fitted.
Result: performance still poor with v slow take-off and lack of power.
in 2023 I:
a) have cleaned interior of dizzy cap and removed serious oxidisation
b) checked all HT cvonnections.
c) removed spark plugs, wire brushed and adjusted gap.
d) with local garage adjusted timimg by the following procedure :
Timing check procedure:
1) Remove connector to TPS to simulate "code 60" - see Car Mechanics article Feb 1995 - https://www.gbsportscar.com/TVR%20Body%20Off/wirin...
2) Checked timing - showed 3 degrees BTDC.
3) Uncoupled what I had identified as octane adjustment socket (above photo), as required in Car Mechanics article. No -one commented but it seems that my picture is of the octane adjustment socket attached to the longer adjustment lead by which adjustments to run on unleaded are achieved. So in fact the octane adjustment had already been made with the result that having decoupled the parts:
4) Checked timing- had advanced to about 5degrees BTDC.
5) Reset timing to 12 degrees BTDC.
6) Reconnect octane adjustment socket - showed timing retarded again, I think to 6 degrees BTDC.
7)Reconnected TPS connector.
Result : Much smoother engine operation and a feeling as though there is some power there at last. At the moment, thanks to all your input, I am satisfied with the result, so I probably won't go down the code reader route just yet. Also just to note that the expert (Frank Massey) behind the article did not particularly recommend the use of a code reader, and thought conventional voltage readings more wortwhile, apart from achieving "code 60" for which I substituted the TPS connector workaround, also mentioned in the article.
Did the garage check the dynamic advance? I don't know what the figure is but it is more important than the static.
I'm surprised it ran at all with that rotor arm, just shows how good those old engines are
Why not give the car a run out the Kop Hill this weekend? I'll be there in Sunday.
I'm surprised it ran at all with that rotor arm, just shows how good those old engines are
Why not give the car a run out the Kop Hill this weekend? I'll be there in Sunday.
v8s4me said:
Did the garage check the dynamic advance? I don't know what the figure is but it is more important than the static.
I'm surprised it ran at all with that rotor arm, just shows how good those old engines are
Why not give the car a run out the Kop Hill this weekend? I'll be there in Sunday.
Definitely not. I'm surprised it ran at all with that rotor arm, just shows how good those old engines are
Why not give the car a run out the Kop Hill this weekend? I'll be there in Sunday.
Ok, we'll give it a run out there on Sunday - not done it before, Will you be in the paddock, and what time do you expect to be there?
Sure, that what it is supposed to do but it still needs checking just to make sure you've got the correct advance at whatever engine speed is specified eg 32btdc @ 3000rpm.
Ideally you want to see a nice smooth advance on the timing light to be sure everything is as it should be. Still, if the car starts well, ticks over evenly and pulls well through the gears there can't be much wrong with it.
Ideally you want to see a nice smooth advance on the timing light to be sure everything is as it should be. Still, if the car starts well, ticks over evenly and pulls well through the gears there can't be much wrong with it.
I've not long returned from this years S Club EuroTour in Phillpot's S3. We always filled up with the basic 95 E10 stuff and the car performed faultlessly. One of our team put some 102 into his Griff and.....no difference 
Put the expensive stuff in to avoid the ethanol but don't expect a performance bonus. On the EuroTour the petrol wasn't in the tank long enough to worry about the ethanol content
A total of 1350 "brisk" miles and an average of just over 28mpg.
Put the expensive stuff in to avoid the ethanol but don't expect a performance bonus. On the EuroTour the petrol wasn't in the tank long enough to worry about the ethanol content
A total of 1350 "brisk" miles and an average of just over 28mpg.
frontfloater said:
No TVR likes cheap supermarket petrol.
Mine does It's not a sports car or performance engine, it's straight out of a Granada, a family saloon!I've never messed with any Octane code, whether or not a previous owner did I have no idea? It works fine so I'm not going to mess
v8s4me said:
I've not long returned from this years S Club EuroTour in Phillpot's S3. We always filled up with the basic 95 E10 stuff and the car performed faultlessly. One of our team put some 102 into his Griff and.....no difference
..
A total of 1350 "brisk" miles and an average of just over 28mpg.
You could add your thoughts here - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&.....
A total of 1350 "brisk" miles and an average of just over 28mpg.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff