Top front ball joint
Discussion
Barkychoc said:
Guys, my top drivers side front ball joint was an advise on the MOT.
I've got the ball joint now, all advice and wisdom appreciated before I start taking the thing to bits.
Chris
The old one was a bugger to remove due to limited access to the nut (21mm if I recall) and then it had to be separated... I used a good whack with a brass drift to loosen mine as I didnt have a splitter - Tvrgit has an entry in his diary about the appropriate splitter and some advice on effective swearing too - worth a read...I've got the ball joint now, all advice and wisdom appreciated before I start taking the thing to bits.
Chris
I found the Q&H replacement part to be a perfect fit... I also marked the precise position of the bolts through the upper wishbone mounting for approximate position for re-assembly - you will need the true alignment checked after fitting the new one. the shims go back where they were on reassembly NOTE.
Overall it was not a bad job - there are a couple of photos on myphotoalbum (on my profile page if you take a look)
good luck
Edited by ketvrin on Monday 18th June 16:56
I got a genuine saab item online for about £21 I think.
I'll sort out the details where I bought it if anyone is interested.
It was detaching the ball joint that I thought would be a pig - otherwise its just the 2 bolts. The joint I bought has come with new bolts anyway so even if they shear its not an issue.
Is it the bit the balljoint connects into that can be moved to adjust camber ?
If so I presume mark it up incase it gets disturbed ?
Or does it have its own fixings ?
Couldn't quite work this bit out from Steve Heaths bible.
I'll sort out the details where I bought it if anyone is interested.
It was detaching the ball joint that I thought would be a pig - otherwise its just the 2 bolts. The joint I bought has come with new bolts anyway so even if they shear its not an issue.
Is it the bit the balljoint connects into that can be moved to adjust camber ?
If so I presume mark it up incase it gets disturbed ?
Or does it have its own fixings ?
Couldn't quite work this bit out from Steve Heaths bible.
Thanks - great pics - and some great advice on the bits you don't need to undo !
Do you reckon careful marking up of old and new components will be OK for now or should I get the geometry checked as a matter of urgency ? I guess it depends on how it feels to drive too.
I wanted to get the geometry sorted when I have got enough dosh to replace shocks & springs & get the play in the rack fixed.
PS TVRGIT - I'm sure you have another name, only you're obviously shy on your website / profile !
Chris
Do you reckon careful marking up of old and new components will be OK for now or should I get the geometry checked as a matter of urgency ? I guess it depends on how it feels to drive too.
I wanted to get the geometry sorted when I have got enough dosh to replace shocks & springs & get the play in the rack fixed.
PS TVRGIT - I'm sure you have another name, only you're obviously shy on your website / profile !
Chris
Barkychoc said:
Do you reckon careful marking up of old and new components will be OK for now or should I get the geometry checked as a matter of urgency ?
As a temp fix why not drop a plumb line from the garage roof, measure distance to wheel rim at top and bottom, then whatever the figures, set the new one up the same, you have to be very accurate if marking at the point of the bolts as a bit out here will be exagerated at the rim.If you measure accurately you will be no further out than if you are now, so nothing lost. B O * * O C K S !
Got old joint off, didn't half have to belt the joint splitter hard with a lump hammer.
Thought I might break something, but in that respect all is well.
The pain in the ass is that the new joint doesn't fit - genuine saab too.
The cast surround around the actual moving ball is just a tad too big - so it won't quite slide into the wishbone far enough to retain the original suspension setting.
I did have a flash of 'shall I file a bit off the arm' but no, I can't imagine thats really a top idea.
So will have to get out to the motor factors this week, at least I've got the old one now.
Well shagged too, not a drop of grease in it.
Anyone have any recommendations for a stockist.
Chris
Got old joint off, didn't half have to belt the joint splitter hard with a lump hammer.
Thought I might break something, but in that respect all is well.
The pain in the ass is that the new joint doesn't fit - genuine saab too.
The cast surround around the actual moving ball is just a tad too big - so it won't quite slide into the wishbone far enough to retain the original suspension setting.
I did have a flash of 'shall I file a bit off the arm' but no, I can't imagine thats really a top idea.
So will have to get out to the motor factors this week, at least I've got the old one now.
Well shagged too, not a drop of grease in it.
Anyone have any recommendations for a stockist.
Chris
Barkychoc said:
I did have a flash of 'shall I file a bit off the arm' but no, I can't imagine thats really a top idea.
On mine the inner edge of the wishbone, where it would foul the balljoint, has been rounded or chamfered. Suspect that may have been done at the factory to clear the joints they originally fitted but not needed with the ones on there now.Filing might be a worthwhile mod, depends how much you need to remove I guess.
K
Now you tell me.....
It does actually fit provided you don't need the full range of adjustment, mine is almost fully back into the wishbone though so it doesn't go in far enough, about 1.5mm short.
I'm going to get the QH part, I'm not going to do a bodge job (no offence Ken!)
For anyone else doing this make sure once the ball joint is free you have some cable ties or something to support the hub assembly or it hangs from the brake pipe.
I'd get a forked ball joint splitter (a fiver) and a 'kin big hammer. A 2lb hammer isn't up to the job.
Cut the rubber seal off with a stanley knife to stop it absorbing some of the impact.
Mine was stuck like a fatherless thing.
By the way nuts/bolts securing balljoint to wishbone are 16mm, balljoint securing nut is 19mm.
It does actually fit provided you don't need the full range of adjustment, mine is almost fully back into the wishbone though so it doesn't go in far enough, about 1.5mm short.
I'm going to get the QH part, I'm not going to do a bodge job (no offence Ken!)
For anyone else doing this make sure once the ball joint is free you have some cable ties or something to support the hub assembly or it hangs from the brake pipe.
I'd get a forked ball joint splitter (a fiver) and a 'kin big hammer. A 2lb hammer isn't up to the job.
Cut the rubber seal off with a stanley knife to stop it absorbing some of the impact.
Mine was stuck like a fatherless thing.
By the way nuts/bolts securing balljoint to wishbone are 16mm, balljoint securing nut is 19mm.
- Edited to say new securing bolts with Saab balljoint have 17mm heads
Edited by Barkychoc on Saturday 7th July 19:15
Piccy time. No I haven't driven the car into the house, I put the old lounge carpet in the garage.
Believe me things are far more tolerable with a bit of carpet under your bum.
Genuine Saab balljoint on left, one removed from car on right.
One shagged balljoint removed from car.
Cable tie supporting hub while I use both hands to scratch my head.
Believe me things are far more tolerable with a bit of carpet under your bum.
Genuine Saab balljoint on left, one removed from car on right.
One shagged balljoint removed from car.
Cable tie supporting hub while I use both hands to scratch my head.
Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 1st July 19:34
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