Outer Hebrides: Any recommendations?
Discussion
Craigie said:
Stayed at Laxdale in May 2015 - great site (we were camping).
Make sure you dont leave Stornoway without going to th ebutcher and filling up with the genuine Stornoway Black Puddings.
Dee-licious!
What did you think of Stornoway town? I was very disappointed. For a main ferry route I thought they could have tried much harder to get the tourist £.
Blackpudding was sourced Make sure you dont leave Stornoway without going to th ebutcher and filling up with the genuine Stornoway Black Puddings.
Dee-licious!
What did you think of Stornoway town? I was very disappointed. For a main ferry route I thought they could have tried much harder to get the tourist £.
I thought Stornoway was OK, nothing amazing - but I can thoroughly recommend the Experience Hebrides tour of Lews castle on the Segways - what a laugh. Mrs chimp and Chimp Jr also both loved it.
We decided to give Horgabost a miss as it was heaving (victim of it's own success?) - and instead we parked up in ne of the wee laybys on the road to Luskentyre beach - you can pay £5 by Paypal to West Harris Trust to stay the night - what a lovely view to wake up to.
Sad to get back home, the Outer Hebrides really appealed to me and it won't be long before we return.
Right, have a spare 10mins so... quick whistle stop tour.
Saturday, up to Oban to catch the ferry to Barra. Stocked up at Aldi and Tesco (buying a £40 ALdi electric coolbox was a good move!) and then fueled and boarded the ferry. 5hrs (ish) later after a great crossing, landed on Barra. Set up camp at Borve with electric hookup, bit pricey at £30.00 but lovely site with great views. New tent tested my patience and the strength of our marriage.
Sunday, packed up and drove down to Vatersay. Weather was decent so found our first proper beach... 3mins later found myself diving off the rocks and in. Testicles have almost recovered. Drove up to the ferry terminal, boarded with no issues and and sailed over to Eriskay in the rain. Found Uist to be quite flat, didn't appeal massively... not helped by the weather. Set up camp for two nights at Moorcroft, great site, lovely people and reasonable at £40.00 for the two nights with hook up.
Monday, weather was crap so headed off on a world tour of North Uist and drove pretty much every single road. Had a walk along the RSPB beach on the west coast, had lunch at Lochmaddy in the cafe (excellent) and then went to the old burial mound and the standing stones. Opted to eat out but could only find one place open on Benbecula... big white hotel, name forgotten but it was decent.
Tuesday, headed north to board the ferry to Harris... had a bacon roll at the cafe near the terminal and found out about the 3 mile beach, too late by this stage so boarded the ferry (last car squeezed on, booking advised!) and crossed over the Sound of Harris which was also very pleasant. Landed early afternoon and had a walk along the first big beach (near the old abandoned bus) but with time against us, had a whistle stop tour and pressed on to Tarbert.
This is where it went all random! By chance, popped in to the ferry office to pee... asked about reserving a ferry from Stronoway to Ullapool (final leg of the hopscotch) and were told there were no ferries till Sunday to the mainland. Got put on a reserve for STornoway at 5am Thursday but plan B, booked to go back to Uist then over to Mallaig on Friday just in case. No biggie, not worth stressing over. Pushed on to Stornoway, stocked up at Tesco and filled up again and head for Eilean Froach site where were were going to be for two nights. Rolled up, neither of us were blown away... decided to abandon and wing it, driving to Uig sands instead and wild camped on the beach at £2.00 donation each. Glad we did, incredible place... sad to leave.
Wednesday, up and packed int he rain which was a bit grim then went round the penisula road past Bostadh and then over to Beneray and then found a community cafe with wifi for lunch and to decide if we were a) going to Stornoway to sit out for the ferry or b) head south again to Uist and then back to Mallaig. Opted plan B was better, after all we were there and may as well carry on rather than bail out back to the mainland. Headed to Stornoway to the community centre to use the tunble driers to dry some kit, fueled up, bought black pudding and then headed south again to Tarbert, planning to stay at Horgabost until the ferry to Uist Thursday afternoon.
Arrived in Tarbert and by chance, went to pee in the ferry terminal again and asked if there was a ferry over to Uist we could get that night. Seems we'd since been confirmed as sailing from Stornoway on Thursday morning. So, decision... do we head back north or carry on south. We opted for north but with plenty time, drove the Golded Road down the east coast, past the Rodel hotel then visited Horgabost and the McLeod standing stone... a place I really wanted to see and was annoyed we'd missed it first time. That done, back in the car and up to Stornoway (again!) and figured we'd sleep in the car overnight, then ferry first thing. Went for a curry at the harbour and as we sat, noted the ferry was in and loading lorries... this was 10:30pm. Figured I'd chance my arm and they were brilliant, so we found ourselves on a desterted freight ferry bound for Ullapool. As you do.
Thursday, arrived in Ullapool at 2am with no plan having been awake since 8am. Optiosn were sleep in the car for a bit, head to Durness and sleep or head to Inverness and sleep. Decided the best option was to drive to Applecross, as you do. 4am in the fog over the Ba' is challenging but we arrived in Applecross, threw the pop up tent up on the beach (frowned upon by hey!) and had some sleep. Got up, used the showers at the campsite then had lunch at the inn and wandered to the walled garden. Figured the next stop should be Fort William so off we went, plans were to camp at the Nevis site and then get dinner. Over dinner we decided we should climb Ben Nevis. Bucket list and all that.
Friday, broke camp early and into town for supplies... walked up to the summit and back in 6hrs which I figured was pretty good going. Had a paddle in the rover to soothe the sore feet then a shower at the camp and then headed off, aiming for Red Squirrel in Glencoe. By the time we arrived, we were a bit "Hmmm" so opted for dinner at the Clachaig (superb!) and then decided rather than camp again in a damp tent, we'd just make our way back home... which we did.
So yes, first half went as planned... second half was a bit impromptu but all in all, fabulous week away and glad we ticked a few things off the list. Great food, incredible scenery, lovely people, roads are first class and pothole free... and despite the wee hiccup, the CalMac staff were all brilliant. Only slight disappointment, Uist was a bit featureless but in fairnes,s the weather didn't help. Likewsie Lewis isn't as pretty but Barra and Harris are superb... will definitely be back.
So again, cheers to you guys who offered some thoughts... definitely helped us make the most of the trip and if I can return the favour, I'd be happy to.
Saturday, up to Oban to catch the ferry to Barra. Stocked up at Aldi and Tesco (buying a £40 ALdi electric coolbox was a good move!) and then fueled and boarded the ferry. 5hrs (ish) later after a great crossing, landed on Barra. Set up camp at Borve with electric hookup, bit pricey at £30.00 but lovely site with great views. New tent tested my patience and the strength of our marriage.
Sunday, packed up and drove down to Vatersay. Weather was decent so found our first proper beach... 3mins later found myself diving off the rocks and in. Testicles have almost recovered. Drove up to the ferry terminal, boarded with no issues and and sailed over to Eriskay in the rain. Found Uist to be quite flat, didn't appeal massively... not helped by the weather. Set up camp for two nights at Moorcroft, great site, lovely people and reasonable at £40.00 for the two nights with hook up.
Monday, weather was crap so headed off on a world tour of North Uist and drove pretty much every single road. Had a walk along the RSPB beach on the west coast, had lunch at Lochmaddy in the cafe (excellent) and then went to the old burial mound and the standing stones. Opted to eat out but could only find one place open on Benbecula... big white hotel, name forgotten but it was decent.
Tuesday, headed north to board the ferry to Harris... had a bacon roll at the cafe near the terminal and found out about the 3 mile beach, too late by this stage so boarded the ferry (last car squeezed on, booking advised!) and crossed over the Sound of Harris which was also very pleasant. Landed early afternoon and had a walk along the first big beach (near the old abandoned bus) but with time against us, had a whistle stop tour and pressed on to Tarbert.
This is where it went all random! By chance, popped in to the ferry office to pee... asked about reserving a ferry from Stronoway to Ullapool (final leg of the hopscotch) and were told there were no ferries till Sunday to the mainland. Got put on a reserve for STornoway at 5am Thursday but plan B, booked to go back to Uist then over to Mallaig on Friday just in case. No biggie, not worth stressing over. Pushed on to Stornoway, stocked up at Tesco and filled up again and head for Eilean Froach site where were were going to be for two nights. Rolled up, neither of us were blown away... decided to abandon and wing it, driving to Uig sands instead and wild camped on the beach at £2.00 donation each. Glad we did, incredible place... sad to leave.
Wednesday, up and packed int he rain which was a bit grim then went round the penisula road past Bostadh and then over to Beneray and then found a community cafe with wifi for lunch and to decide if we were a) going to Stornoway to sit out for the ferry or b) head south again to Uist and then back to Mallaig. Opted plan B was better, after all we were there and may as well carry on rather than bail out back to the mainland. Headed to Stornoway to the community centre to use the tunble driers to dry some kit, fueled up, bought black pudding and then headed south again to Tarbert, planning to stay at Horgabost until the ferry to Uist Thursday afternoon.
Arrived in Tarbert and by chance, went to pee in the ferry terminal again and asked if there was a ferry over to Uist we could get that night. Seems we'd since been confirmed as sailing from Stornoway on Thursday morning. So, decision... do we head back north or carry on south. We opted for north but with plenty time, drove the Golded Road down the east coast, past the Rodel hotel then visited Horgabost and the McLeod standing stone... a place I really wanted to see and was annoyed we'd missed it first time. That done, back in the car and up to Stornoway (again!) and figured we'd sleep in the car overnight, then ferry first thing. Went for a curry at the harbour and as we sat, noted the ferry was in and loading lorries... this was 10:30pm. Figured I'd chance my arm and they were brilliant, so we found ourselves on a desterted freight ferry bound for Ullapool. As you do.
Thursday, arrived in Ullapool at 2am with no plan having been awake since 8am. Optiosn were sleep in the car for a bit, head to Durness and sleep or head to Inverness and sleep. Decided the best option was to drive to Applecross, as you do. 4am in the fog over the Ba' is challenging but we arrived in Applecross, threw the pop up tent up on the beach (frowned upon by hey!) and had some sleep. Got up, used the showers at the campsite then had lunch at the inn and wandered to the walled garden. Figured the next stop should be Fort William so off we went, plans were to camp at the Nevis site and then get dinner. Over dinner we decided we should climb Ben Nevis. Bucket list and all that.
Friday, broke camp early and into town for supplies... walked up to the summit and back in 6hrs which I figured was pretty good going. Had a paddle in the rover to soothe the sore feet then a shower at the camp and then headed off, aiming for Red Squirrel in Glencoe. By the time we arrived, we were a bit "Hmmm" so opted for dinner at the Clachaig (superb!) and then decided rather than camp again in a damp tent, we'd just make our way back home... which we did.
So yes, first half went as planned... second half was a bit impromptu but all in all, fabulous week away and glad we ticked a few things off the list. Great food, incredible scenery, lovely people, roads are first class and pothole free... and despite the wee hiccup, the CalMac staff were all brilliant. Only slight disappointment, Uist was a bit featureless but in fairnes,s the weather didn't help. Likewsie Lewis isn't as pretty but Barra and Harris are superb... will definitely be back.
So again, cheers to you guys who offered some thoughts... definitely helped us make the most of the trip and if I can return the favour, I'd be happy to.
A great write up.
What a terrific trip you had with everything chucked at you and still achieved so much. Your camping abilities and stamina must have been true teamwork with your better half!
I've experienced Calmac's flexibility, "Any chance of getting 4 artics on that non-scheduled ferry for Uist?"
"Nae bother. On you go!"
And then you think, fancy a hoof up Ben Nevis? I've been up and know it's not a walk in the park. Could you see anything from the summit? I was in the clouds.
What a terrific trip you had with everything chucked at you and still achieved so much. Your camping abilities and stamina must have been true teamwork with your better half!
I've experienced Calmac's flexibility, "Any chance of getting 4 artics on that non-scheduled ferry for Uist?"
"Nae bother. On you go!"
And then you think, fancy a hoof up Ben Nevis? I've been up and know it's not a walk in the park. Could you see anything from the summit? I was in the clouds.
I agree with your assessment of the Hebrides, I've never been to Barra but out of the others Harris is the only one I'd make special trip to see, although Uist and Lewis are nice enough to see while you are there.
Calmac have always been excellent in my experience. I've never had any issues changing bookings, even switching from the North Uist to South Uist sailing - I just had to pay the difference. I once got stranded on Uist for weekend (weather's fault, not theirs - was meant to sail out at 11 on friday, ended up leaving Sunday afternoon!) and the communication from them was pretty good.
I would always recommend booking your crossing in advance, especially this time of year the ferry can be pretty full even a week in advance. If you want a bit of flexibility you can always change your booking later if there is room.
Calmac have always been excellent in my experience. I've never had any issues changing bookings, even switching from the North Uist to South Uist sailing - I just had to pay the difference. I once got stranded on Uist for weekend (weather's fault, not theirs - was meant to sail out at 11 on friday, ended up leaving Sunday afternoon!) and the communication from them was pretty good.
I would always recommend booking your crossing in advance, especially this time of year the ferry can be pretty full even a week in advance. If you want a bit of flexibility you can always change your booking later if there is room.
Imminent disaster at Dalmore (Lewis) - Oil rig runs aground
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-is...
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-is...
bigwheel said:
A great write up.
What a terrific trip you had with everything chucked at you and still achieved so much. Your camping abilities and stamina must have been true teamwork with your better half!
I've experienced Calmac's flexibility, "Any chance of getting 4 artics on that non-scheduled ferry for Uist?"
"Nae bother. On you go!"
And then you think, fancy a hoof up Ben Nevis? I've been up and know it's not a walk in the park. Could you see anything from the summit? I was in the clouds.
Ha, cheers... thankfully she seems quite resilient to typical Scottish summer weather though the first night tent fiasco did try her patience (and mine) so I shall be marching back to Go Outdoors tomorrow whilst praying it wasn't down to me being an idiot and not reading the instructions properly! What a terrific trip you had with everything chucked at you and still achieved so much. Your camping abilities and stamina must have been true teamwork with your better half!
I've experienced Calmac's flexibility, "Any chance of getting 4 artics on that non-scheduled ferry for Uist?"
"Nae bother. On you go!"
And then you think, fancy a hoof up Ben Nevis? I've been up and know it's not a walk in the park. Could you see anything from the summit? I was in the clouds.
Very impressed with CalMac to be honest, credit where credit is due... nothing really seems to be an issue and all the guys on the boat seems to have a cheery attitude despite having to deal with lost Italian tourists, the rain and people like me who turn with with knackered handbrakes.
Ben Nevis was quite strange... it was a fairly clear day but the cloud level was low so we ended up in mist for the last 45mins but it dried up at the top but sadly the cloud didn't lift. Coming down was better, well in terms of the weather and views but it was bloody hard going on the knees. We went prepared but I was astounded at how many people were sauntering up with trainers on and one chap had a small child wearing those croc things and a light summer jacket. There's winging it, but it's still no walk int he park... especially if the weather changes and the temperatures drop. Glad we did it, ended the week on a high... so to speak.
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