Strange gearbox/clutch problem (V8/LT77)
Discussion
As a matter of interest, what sort of colour/goo/debris/etc came out with the solvent flush.
Regarding improved performance mine was not instant, probably a couple of hundred miles of steady improvement.
I read, chemically, that moly takes a while to coat all the surfaces so lets see what happens after it is applied.
Regarding improved performance mine was not instant, probably a couple of hundred miles of steady improvement.
I read, chemically, that moly takes a while to coat all the surfaces so lets see what happens after it is applied.
Well I can report a massive improvement having drained the Redline MTL for Mobil 1 & Moly. Previously getting into 1st 3rd & Reverse was a pain but now those problems have all but vanished after a very short run round the block. Given that the Moly is meant to take a while to settle in plus the Mobil 1 probably wasn't even getting near warm - my first impressions are very good indeed. I did notice some noises after depressing the clutch whilst sitting in traffic but I'm not too alarmed as the clutch, release bearing and fork are all new. Either way, it's happy days.
In due course, I will give the clutch MC another bleed along with the brakes. The next bit of fettling relates to the new GAZ coilovers I'm now waiting for...roll on April.
In due course, I will give the clutch MC another bleed along with the brakes. The next bit of fettling relates to the new GAZ coilovers I'm now waiting for...roll on April.
GV said:
Well I can report a massive improvement having drained the Redline MTL for Mobil 1 & Moly. Previously getting into 1st 3rd & Reverse was a pain but now those problems have all but vanished after a very short run round the block. Given that the Moly is meant to take a while to settle in plus the Mobil 1 probably wasn't even getting near warm - my first impressions are very good indeed.
Providing its not an LSD, now drain and flush the standard differential, pop in the other half of the gearbox treatment, along with a refill of your normal hypoid, details and method - here:http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
and settle down to a superb drive-line, smooth as silk and no unseemly noises. When you have the results, tell the world where to find the original story.
You Know It Makes Sense YKIMS.
Edited by honestjohntoo on Thursday 1st March 21:23
The Hatter said:
Putting moly in an LSD on a wedge probably isn't a good idea...
Agree, but got moly with the oil for the lsd diff when I picked that up at my local jaguar dealer a couple of years ago....Think most jags have lsd as well, and was puzzled and won't use it in the diff.
Seems I can use it next time I service the box, thanks to this thread.
Currently run a thin engine oil in it for over 8 years, don't know the exact rating anymore, and it has been fine for 15000km.
Only when cold in autumn and winter I skip 2nd, but after 15 minutes it is fine.
Rob
Hmmm I ordered the Green Molyslip syringe like wot HJ2 posted (and I have used before) but a Purple tube of Holts molyslip tuned up this morning which is really annoying because I could have had this 3 days ago for 3 quid less from Halfrauds.
So - has anyone used the Purple tube - it is equivalent to the green syringe?
Also Martin your adapter turned up too (thanks!) so I have no excuse not to fiddle with the car again this weekend!
So - has anyone used the Purple tube - it is equivalent to the green syringe?
Also Martin your adapter turned up too (thanks!) so I have no excuse not to fiddle with the car again this weekend!
Mike Brewer said:
Stupid question would any fully synthectic engine oil be ok .0/40 or 5/40 ie lucas or millers etc
Some background information for you!To the best of my knowledge it was me that first published results in a circa 1996 Rover SD1 Club magazine of my experiments with low viscosity Mobil 1 and/or Castrol RS fully synthetic engine oil, with the added Moly G/B treatment!
Before that I didn't see it ever appearing in print.
Why, Mobil or Castrol?. Well, because I normally go for recognised popular brands.
And the reason for the experiment was "desperation" - "cure or death, death or cure".
No science involved, no prior knowledge, no-one that I knew of tried it out, just a recommendation from an oil industry employee, and that was for the choice of lubricant only.
I decided at the same to add the Moly. "Cure or Death" -
As it turned out the experiment was a raging success, 16 years and thousands of miles. It has been reported world wide on many forums and my own web pages.
Do I recommend it? - Well Yes! Will I take responsibility if it does not work for anyone who tries it? - Well No!
So to your question -
"Will any fully synthectic engine oil be ok .0/40 or 5/40 ie lucas or millers etc" -
I have absolutely no idea, but as with most products, cheapest is not always the best.
But then it may also depend upon whether anyone else has tried any of those alternative, cheaper(?) products and measured the result in time and distance.
It also depends upon whether the box is cureable or shagged!
It's just one of those difficult decisions, but sometimes one just has to go with ones instincts.
For me it was real easy! "Cure or Death" -
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
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