Series I vs Series II

Series I vs Series II

Author
Discussion

davidf

Original Poster:

111 posts

263 months

Sunday 16th June 2002
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What is the difference between the series I and series II wedges? Is there a big difference, should it affect the price?
What improvements were made to the design, and was the old design that bad?
Thanks
David

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Sunday 16th June 2002
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As I understand it (part of it) series 1 trailing arm suspension series 2 A frame. Series 1 trailing arms have a large rubber pivot that can wear and sieze, mine did. On removal there was almost no rubber attached to the steel sleeve that the pivot bolt went through. Trailing arm also not suited to higher power. Also I have been told that the trailing arm set up had 15 degrees movement that can lead to a higher rate of UJ wear? Is it the same rate on the A frame? So as I understand it not good for power upgrades. Body styling as well. Never liked the bulge on the bonnet (had it for 7-8 years). Are LSD's the norm on later cars?
Also I suspect my early A reg 350 motor was bog standard rover? Did they tweek at all?
I have only ever seen 2 that looked like mine (the old one).
I think that my old Vixen would have out handled it as well.
Now the 400 is a different beast all together
Waiting to be shot down......

350matt

3,740 posts

280 months

Monday 17th June 2002
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The series 2 cars tend to fetch another 1500 quid or so over the series 1's mainly because of the suspension mods. Also the series 2 cars have different rear lights and a smoother look body work which looks a bit more integrated.

Matt

Danny Hoffman

1,617 posts

263 months

Monday 17th June 2002
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I would have thought with cars of that age the condition would be the major factor

Schazzar

104 posts

263 months

Tuesday 18th June 2002
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Hi Dave

Having owned a very early Series 1 and a late Series 2 which is my present car, there are some big differences you need to know about. Essentially, the series 2 is a much more refined car. On the series 1 the engine and gearbox was straight out of the Rover Vitesse. Although they were fine units mechanically, the ECUs were iffy with major problems around hot starting. The early electrics were also prone to failures on everything. However, the biggest problem with the series 1 was the cooling system which was radically changed on the series 2 to reduce the problem of airlocks - a big cause of overheating.

The engine mountings were also changed on the series 2 giving a smoother idle. Other points to note was the early series 1's had cast iron manifolds before the tubalar ones were brought in, these were responsible for the famous TVR noise with the exhaust being routed in a different way completley. Also, the early cars had Rover sourced air filters before the piper cross type now used which restricted air intake.

I could go on suffice to tell you that you should go for a series 2 unless the series 1 you may be interested in has well and truly been sorted. Don't settle for anything less!

davidf

Original Poster:

111 posts

263 months

Tuesday 18th June 2002
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OK, that settles it, I'll go for a series II. But...how do I tell them apart by just looking?
David

Dave350iTVR

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 18th June 2002
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have a look here:

www.bress.freeserve.co.uk/wedge/gallery.html

Once you start looking it will jump out at you! Often front bumpers and wing mirrors are the give away for me. The bonnet often looks different on a series I. Also, I might be shot down in flames for saying this, but a lot of the older cars (Series I) have TVR in great big letters on the bonnet. Although as the gallery will show you can get Series II cars with the large logo too! (And to put further holes in that last theory the US Series 280i in the Wedge Gallery has the smaller TVR bonnet badge!)
Infact the problem is that these cars tend to vary quite a bit with 350i's having a 390 bonnet or maybe a 400 or SEAC spoiler added. I have a Series II which has been badged as Tamsin (not Tasmin)!

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Wednesday 19th June 2002
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Don't knock a sorted S 1 Tasmin.
There are big differences between the two. I had one for 7-8 years and it never let me down. OK lots of work but I had a place to do it. The engine was bog standard and the rest ford/jag/rover/guess a bit. Enjoyed it a lot. Never had Shazzars hot sarting problem but that was mine. I guess the early ones are "more individual" than the rest.
Saying this as I spent more on the 400 than I spent on the 350. Not an expected bill and mightily miffed but thats life.

Schazzar

104 posts

263 months

Wednesday 19th June 2002
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Some other visual pointers that relate to an Series 1 are both F/R bumpers have a ribbed effect, also the bonnet usually has 2 reverse air intakes at the front end and an air intake on top of the boonet near the wiper.

The front air dam also has angled edges. Overall the car has a more angled and sharper appearence. (great profile) To make it a bit more confusing, there was also a Series 1 1/2 which had twin exhausts and curved bonnet with a front airdam that finished half way up the front wheel arches. If you get hold of a copy of the latest sprint there's a white S1 1/2 featured in the photo gallery. Another general pointer is that any car registered after 1986 onwards should be a proper series 2.

I loved my series 1 which I restored prior to selling it, and it was an individual car. But even whilst owning it I hankered after a series 2 due to the noise and better cooling refinement.

>> Edited by Schazzar on Wednesday 19th June 15:01

Andy390

349 posts

277 months

Friday 21st June 2002
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Just a little pointer,
All V8 wedges from the first 350 have the same Lucas 4CU ECU, with the LUCAS 2AM Moving flap airflow meter. Only the later cars (approximately'90 on) with the hot wire 5AM airflow meter were different which used the later and by all accounts more reliable Lucas 14CU ECU.
Bear in mind Thousands of Range rovers, Vitesses, Vanden plas',Morgans,etc of the period used the older unit.
My 390 series 2 has the same and to date has not been that bad (apart from when the Engine coolant sensor failed-£10 from lucas.)
So i wouldnt worry about reliability problems between the series 1 and 2 'cos they're the same injection.
PS Get yerself a copy of Graham Robsons-TVR's Volume 2 Tasmin to chimaera.
I bought it when i was looking to by mine and its got a wealth of info on when changes were made.ie it tells you when the A-frame rear suspension was introduced (during 1986)Reading just a couple of pages tells me that it is possible to get a series 2 350 with the older trailing arm suspension.
Hope this helps
Andy

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Friday 21st June 2002
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quote:


PS Get yerself a copy of Graham Robsons-TVR's Volume 2 Tasmin to chimaera.



The Wedge bible also goes into this and includes TVR's own account of the changes upto around 1987 which are slightly different from Robson's account. The history includes the chassis numbers not that it helps too much as the numbering scheme changed a couple of times and there is no real continuity in serial numbers either... Apart form the body changes and these have been made a lot worse as subsequent owners have taken advantage of body damage to update their cars so that they look new or because they couldn't get the older bits.

The key difference is the trailing arm vs the A frame. The good nesw is that the Tasmin racers have done a lot of development work to improve it and create spares so it is not quite the disaster that it was. It still is a limiting factor if you want weapon grade power though.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

Taz 24

62 posts

268 months

Friday 21st June 2002
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I have to agree with JMorgan, you shouldn't knock the Series 1. If it wasn't for the S1 Tasmin would there be a 350?