Discussion
If your after different dashes i can do various styles, just started up a company called (TVR CAR SPARES LTD) We do aluminium dashes for all tvr's (See picture below for a Griff 500 dash just done)Can do Brushed aluminium (as photo), Anodised in Silver or Black, OR Swirl effect like modern Griff 500 Dashes.
E-mail me or phone 01293 411329 Price roughly £180 inc Vat DIY fit or £300 Fitted.
E-mail me or phone 01293 411329 Price roughly £180 inc Vat DIY fit or £300 Fitted.
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If your after different dashes i can do various styles, just started up a company called (TVR CAR SPARES LTD) We do aluminium dashes for all tvr's (See picture below for a Griff 500 dash just done)Can do Brushed aluminium (as photo), Anodised in Silver or Black, OR Swirl effect like modern Griff 500 Dashes.
E-mail me or phone 01293 411329 Price roughly £180 inc Vat DIY fit or £300 Fitted.
Missed a bit...
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I have been intending for over a year to have solid alloy door pulls made: got the metal, just need to bribe a mate to chop them into shape!
Ian,
I don't suppose you would consider doing any more of these while you are at it??? If so let me know. I have taken the doors off mine to get at the frame so it's a good time to add shiny bits and if you need a handle as a template mine aren't doing a lot at the moment.
GF.
On my 350 all the wooden panels were venered on to a piece of steel. I have now removed and had them all polished and chromed to great effect. The dash and glovebox were in a matt chrome to stop any possible reflection whilst the door cappings and switch panel were done in standard bright chrome. (there are several different finishes for chrome !)
On aerlier cars de vineer is glued direct on a metal plate and then the switches are put in. On later modeles the switches are placed into a metal plate
and the veneered bit is put on top of that in front of the swicthes. On this later set-up the veneered piece can move a bit and will not crack so quickly.
I still have a brand new veneered top piece. Get in touch by mail and we will work something out.
and the veneered bit is put on top of that in front of the swicthes. On this later set-up the veneered piece can move a bit and will not crack so quickly.
I still have a brand new veneered top piece. Get in touch by mail and we will work something out.
I prefer the wood. My Brother in law is a veneer specialist and would probably do the job for a fraction of the cost.Gives the whole cockpit a classy feel IMO.
I'm going to fit a push button starter into the centre console cutting in new holes for the existing switches and leaving out the nasty blanked out effect left in by the factory. I've seen some those of those carbon, and steel effects in other wedges and I think they make the interior look a bit tacky...Best stick the original. The Push button starter though is cool,
press the button and.........
I'm going to fit a push button starter into the centre console cutting in new holes for the existing switches and leaving out the nasty blanked out effect left in by the factory. I've seen some those of those carbon, and steel effects in other wedges and I think they make the interior look a bit tacky...Best stick the original. The Push button starter though is cool,
press the button and.........
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The Push button starter though is cool,
press the button and.........
Your insurance company might not like it unless it is linked into a Thatcham Cat 2 immobiliser. Might be worth talking to them first before doing anything.
It is also pretty cool when you hit it while the engine is running and strip the teeth of the flywheel if you are unlucky or the solenoid if it's one of those days where you should have bought that lottery ticket.
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 25th July 11:36
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What a spoilsport.......Besides you still need the ignition key and the car still needs to be unarmed before it will start. As for hitting the button accidently, I may even put in a cover, flick it up, bush the button - even cooler eh?.
Instead of start, inscribe "LAUNCH" on it
I thought you were going to do it correctly a la Cerbera where there is no ignition key and an on button and a off button... Obviously not! 
The covered switch is actually used on race cars for critical functions.
Toying with the idea on the 520 but the whole interior is coming out so I have a lot of flexibility. Security is augmented by removing the ECU and steering wheel...
Steve
The covered switch is actually used on race cars for critical functions.
Toying with the idea on the 520 but the whole interior is coming out so I have a lot of flexibility. Security is augmented by removing the ECU and steering wheel...
Steve
Funnily enough, I've been thinking that the cig lighter orifice is just right for a GO button...!
Plan I had was to take a parallel feed off the alternator warning lamp so that the starter button lights when you turn the ignition key on (Yes I realise it defeats the object if you leave the standard ignition switch in, but at least you keep the steering lock. The toe-rags with the slide hammers won't be able to start the car without defeating the immobiliser as well, though)
It would be a simple enough matter to configure a relay from the starter button so that it wouldn't engage the starter with the engine already running.
Ian
Plan I had was to take a parallel feed off the alternator warning lamp so that the starter button lights when you turn the ignition key on (Yes I realise it defeats the object if you leave the standard ignition switch in, but at least you keep the steering lock. The toe-rags with the slide hammers won't be able to start the car without defeating the immobiliser as well, though)
It would be a simple enough matter to configure a relay from the starter button so that it wouldn't engage the starter with the engine already running.
Ian
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