Discussion
Yeah, I said that just now (or was it a different thread ?? - my brain is going.....)
When hot starting, yes, mine needs some throttle too, and doesn't always catch on all cyls, just like Zig says !!
When REALLY hot, like say a drive in stop for a coffee, it sometimes needs full throttle to catch....
Later K jets had a 'pulse' system for the cold start injector, which was yet another timer type relay wired in the system. Confirms that system still needs a little bit extra gas to start, even when hot.
When hot starting, yes, mine needs some throttle too, and doesn't always catch on all cyls, just like Zig says !!
When REALLY hot, like say a drive in stop for a coffee, it sometimes needs full throttle to catch....
Later K jets had a 'pulse' system for the cold start injector, which was yet another timer type relay wired in the system. Confirms that system still needs a little bit extra gas to start, even when hot.
Hi John...Thats how mine was but make sure you don't leave the ignition on at the first position without the engine running for too long.
Also id be inclined to check the accumulator by clamping the feed from it to the bulkhead and removing the rear vent pipe..(If you have one) to see if any fuel comes out when you power the pump..Not cranking...Although just for a few seconds and then if no fuel comes out re-attach the hose..Un-clamp the feed and bobs your uncle...Happy days...Just having the pump running on the first position will not diagnose the accumulator...This needs a physical inspection....Cheers...Ziga
Also id be inclined to check the accumulator by clamping the feed from it to the bulkhead and removing the rear vent pipe..(If you have one) to see if any fuel comes out when you power the pump..Not cranking...Although just for a few seconds and then if no fuel comes out re-attach the hose..Un-clamp the feed and bobs your uncle...Happy days...Just having the pump running on the first position will not diagnose the accumulator...This needs a physical inspection....Cheers...Ziga
John042 said:
Thanks Zig. I think his idea was that by the pump running as soon as the ignition is on, the fuel system is immediately pressurised? Thereby any fuel cavitation on warm/hot starting is negated? So a few more "Fiddles" this weekend. J C.
Hi mate...If the accumulator is leaking fuel out of the breather then the pressure will still drop off and will starve the engine....And it will still be a pig to start...Once you test it you will know what to do..Nearly there mate...Cheers...ZigaHappy to report a 82 degree thermostat has cured my heating problem, so much so that I've taken off the viscous fan. Temperature on the car gauge reads about 90 degrees with the fan thermostat set at 85 degrees. Happy days. The other glitch, warm starting I thought I'd cured by increasing the tickover. Not so as today 'Wesley' had another funny turn and refused to start when left for 10 minutes. Swapping the fuel relay for an ordinary relay 'Wesley' did start with full throttle. I know Zig I'm probably going to have to 'Bite the bullet' and buy a new fuel regulator. There are no leaks from the regulator rear vent pipe whilst the output is clamped or whilst running? However, that's not to say fuel pressure is being dissipated because of a failed regulator? Cheers all. John C.
Hi John...Good news mate..Glad your cooling is sorted...It sounds like the accumulator is okay...Out of interest do you use any throttle when restarting from hot/Warm?...If you are then it without...If anything you only want about...20mm of pedal depressed on the accelerator and hold it...Don't pump it or floor it as you can flood it....A bit more testing around the relays might prove fruitful ...Didnt someone with a US spec 280i has a similar issue and sorted it???...Ill see if i can find it....Cheers...Ziga
Thanks Zig, at least some progress. I haven't been using any throttle when re-starting when warm, so will. The relay might have just been a 'red herring' in that I'd left it a while longer before starting again. I notice the same accumulators advertised come without a rear vent pipe? Are they compatable? J C.
Hi mate...I know either have been used but TBH if your pump can be set to prime prior to cranking then you might not need it...As said it sounds like its okay...All it does is hold the fuel pressure for an amount of time after switching off in order to help restarting...Its a giant spring and a diaphragm so there is not much to it really...If it was faulty then you would of noticed..
Save your money for now......
Save your money for now......
John042 said:
'Wesley' had another funny turn and refused to start when left for 10 minutes. Swapping the fuel relay for an ordinary relay 'Wesley' did start with full throttle.
Mmmm...10 minutes is about right for an accumulator to loose pressure...I think it should be 20 but the spring might be a bit weak...You say you increased the idle in one post but i couldn't see what your idle is resting at?...900-950rpm i a good range..Mine was around 850-900..Kind of sounds like yours is okay...I always needed a bit of light throttle to start Delilah and even then she would crank a few times and only start on 5 cylinders....Have you checked the strength of the spark...Should be like a bolt of lightening ..Not yellow...The spark module might be failing but i think some of it is where the engine has been put together and run for the first time in a while...I think some tweaking here and there and you should be fine.....ZigaJohn042 said:
Gas turbine engines
Now theres a thought.....I think your idle could do with being a tad higher...The best way to adjust it is to get the car at normally running temperature and switch on the fan..Rad fan...Lights on full beam..Hazards..And fogs...Oh and if you have a stereo then whack that on as well then adjust to about 900rpm...It will probably rise to around 950rpm when everything is switched off...
Hi John...Not too sure about the size of the gap..But that sounds about right...IIRC as long as its enough to keep the plate from sticking in the throttle body bore when cooling down...
When "Wesley" is warmed up and you blip the throttle does it return to idle straight away or is there a few seconds in-between?...
When "Wesley" is warmed up and you blip the throttle does it return to idle straight away or is there a few seconds in-between?...
Cool. (literally)
Throttle stop screw is there simply to make sure that
1) throttle plate doesn't wear a groove in venturi
2) throttle plate doesn't stick.
because it's relatively quite a big flap.
I posted official procedure in here somewhere - basically it's to set screw so it touches a thin piece of paper in the gap and then screw in 1/4 of a turn.
If changing your fuel relay for a standard one makes car start just fine, then suspect the relay. (The pink/purple one) They were known for failing in various ways.
Yes, mine needs some throttle to start warm /hot, it's pretty common. Capri forum has same reports...
Can turn idle on mine down to 750 and it's still OK, but injectors are still quite new. I think 850 was recommended, 950 for auto.
Throttle stop screw is there simply to make sure that
1) throttle plate doesn't wear a groove in venturi
2) throttle plate doesn't stick.
because it's relatively quite a big flap.
I posted official procedure in here somewhere - basically it's to set screw so it touches a thin piece of paper in the gap and then screw in 1/4 of a turn.
If changing your fuel relay for a standard one makes car start just fine, then suspect the relay. (The pink/purple one) They were known for failing in various ways.
Yes, mine needs some throttle to start warm /hot, it's pretty common. Capri forum has same reports...
Can turn idle on mine down to 750 and it's still OK, but injectors are still quite new. I think 850 was recommended, 950 for auto.
Edited by RCK974X on Saturday 13th February 22:16
If engine almost stalls when blipped, I would suggest -
1) the mixture is a bit weak. Try turning the hex adjuster tool about 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise.
2) idle may be a bit slow.
3) is air filter gummed up ? (many owners don't think of this)
4) double check ignition timing (just in case) Mine is set to 9-10 BTDC and vac advance disconnected.
As you've put a new thermostat in, this probably means the WUR is sitting in a different place, so it's wise to retune and reset idle etc....
That's one of the bad things about K jet, it's all mechanical, so changing anything changes everything....
once you have stopped fiddling though, it stays in tune for ages.
1) the mixture is a bit weak. Try turning the hex adjuster tool about 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise.
2) idle may be a bit slow.
3) is air filter gummed up ? (many owners don't think of this)
4) double check ignition timing (just in case) Mine is set to 9-10 BTDC and vac advance disconnected.
As you've put a new thermostat in, this probably means the WUR is sitting in a different place, so it's wise to retune and reset idle etc....
That's one of the bad things about K jet, it's all mechanical, so changing anything changes everything....
once you have stopped fiddling though, it stays in tune for ages.
Thanks Andy. I'll have another "Fiddle" today. Considering the amount of work done to the engine and time of inactivity it's not running bad. Also another factor maybe to take into consideration, possible, overlooked is the new camshaft that came in the boxes of parts on purchase. It was new and possible identified as a Kent fast road cam? At the moment the ignition is set at 10 btdc with vacuum connected. Fuel relay is new but that not to say a lot. Fuel filter gauze new, horrible side intake Granada setup. Happy days in my workshop avoiding weekend household maintenance. J C
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff