HELP! Has Anyone Got..
Discussion
I'd repair that with a bit of Chemical Metal , remaining "half a hole" will take the strain off the repair.
I think a temporary solution will be to reinforce the bracket with a bit of alloy angle....
Unfortunaltely the threaded studs on the fixing plate have rusted through so that will need bodging as well.
Another little job for tomorrow on top of fixing the fuel line and trying to find out where the door seal is leaking. Good job i had noting better planned, like driving the sdding thing
Unfortunaltely the threaded studs on the fixing plate have rusted through so that will need bodging as well.
Another little job for tomorrow on top of fixing the fuel line and trying to find out where the door seal is leaking. Good job i had noting better planned, like driving the sdding thing
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
...I could also make some up if you want to send to me 1st to copy.
Thanks for the offer but for now I've had to bodge the old one. If you do make any please add me to the list.Not pretty...
But pretty effective...
It will do for now until the correct part turns up or until I (or Leigh) have time to fabricate a better one. To do the job properly, a replacement should spread the load more evenly on the inside of the glass and move the bracket a few mm inboard so it doesn't catch on the weather seal and lines up better with the lower bracket.
Another great example of TVR non-design, poorly thought out and crap materials. That's why we love 'em I suppose.
Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 26th February 11:47
It looks a bit better with this type of screw head...
Countersunk would be neater but the plates would have to be a lot thicker to avoid any contact with the glass. These tail-gates are too expensive to taking chances with. Ideally the inner plate with the strut locating bracket should cover the same area of glass as the outer one so as to spread the load evenly.
Countersunk would be neater but the plates would have to be a lot thicker to avoid any contact with the glass. These tail-gates are too expensive to taking chances with. Ideally the inner plate with the strut locating bracket should cover the same area of glass as the outer one so as to spread the load evenly.
Yep don't take any chances if that glass is expensive. If the glass is flat a longer and wider plate could be fitted and given extra thickness to accommodate a countersunk screw. A nice 45 degree chamfer around the plate edge would finish it off and help to hide the extra thickness. What size hole is in the glass and what size screw is used?
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