Discussion
I think you will find if you use the courtesy light switches the door will be well clear of the hood before the motor drops the glass.
The T Cars have a "Window ECU" so when you operate the open door button it triggers the ecu that then operates window lift motor for a few MS and then releases the door using a solenoid. To accomplish the same on a wedge the door lock would need to connected to a mircoswitch which would trigger a monostable to pulse the window lift motor and then trigger a second monstable would give a pulse to pop the door, the glass would then need remain in the lower position until a switch tells the system that door is closed and the window can be closed too. An embedded micro such as a PIC or ATMEL could easily do the timing, it would be the actual installation in the car that would scare me.
The T Cars have a "Window ECU" so when you operate the open door button it triggers the ecu that then operates window lift motor for a few MS and then releases the door using a solenoid. To accomplish the same on a wedge the door lock would need to connected to a mircoswitch which would trigger a monostable to pulse the window lift motor and then trigger a second monstable would give a pulse to pop the door, the glass would then need remain in the lower position until a switch tells the system that door is closed and the window can be closed too. An embedded micro such as a PIC or ATMEL could easily do the timing, it would be the actual installation in the car that would scare me.
batman400 said:
I think you will find if you use the courtesy light switches the door will be well clear of the hood before the motor drops the glass.
The T Cars have a "Window ECU" so when you operate the open door button it triggers the ecu that then operates window lift motor for a few MS and then releases the door using a solenoid. To accomplish the same on a wedge the door lock would need to connected to a mircoswitch which would trigger a monostable to pulse the window lift motor and then trigger a second monstable would give a pulse to pop the door, the glass would then need remain in the lower position until a switch tells the system that door is closed and the window can be closed too. An embedded micro such as a PIC or ATMEL could easily do the timing, it would be the actual installation in the car that would scare me.
Very true, courtesy light switches play no part in this jobThe T Cars have a "Window ECU" so when you operate the open door button it triggers the ecu that then operates window lift motor for a few MS and then releases the door using a solenoid. To accomplish the same on a wedge the door lock would need to connected to a mircoswitch which would trigger a monostable to pulse the window lift motor and then trigger a second monstable would give a pulse to pop the door, the glass would then need remain in the lower position until a switch tells the system that door is closed and the window can be closed too. An embedded micro such as a PIC or ATMEL could easily do the timing, it would be the actual installation in the car that would scare me.
I think you're both trying to over-engineer this solution. All that is needed is a brief supply to the "down" side of the motor to drop the window a couple of inches. If the little gizmo does what it claims to do then it should do the job you want. Once the door is closed just wind the window back up the normal way.
v8s4me said:
I think you're both trying to over-engineer this solution. All that is needed is a brief supply to the "down" side of the motor to drop the window a couple of inches. If the little gizmo does what it claims to do then it should do the job you want. Once the door is closed just wind the window back up the normal way.
OK there is a small flaw in the idea, for getting yes works great, what about getting out ?batman400 said:
I think you will find if you use the courtesy light switches the door will be well clear of the hood before the motor drops the glass.
The T Cars have a "Window ECU" so when you operate the open door button it triggers the ecu that then operates window lift motor for a few MS and then releases the door using a solenoid. To accomplish the same on a wedge the door lock would need to connected to a mircoswitch which would trigger a monostable to pulse the window lift motor and then trigger a second monstable would give a pulse to pop the door, the glass would then need remain in the lower position until a switch tells the system that door is closed and the window can be closed too. An embedded micro such as a PIC or ATMEL could easily do the timing, it would be the actual installation in the car that would scare me.
I haven't included a door release solenoid circuit, the OP asked for a window dropper/lifter circuitThe T Cars have a "Window ECU" so when you operate the open door button it triggers the ecu that then operates window lift motor for a few MS and then releases the door using a solenoid. To accomplish the same on a wedge the door lock would need to connected to a mircoswitch which would trigger a monostable to pulse the window lift motor and then trigger a second monstable would give a pulse to pop the door, the glass would then need remain in the lower position until a switch tells the system that door is closed and the window can be closed too. An embedded micro such as a PIC or ATMEL could easily do the timing, it would be the actual installation in the car that would scare me.
batman400 said:
OK there is a small flaw in the idea, for getting yes works great, what about getting out ?
Good point. For some reason I got the idea this was just for the passenger door when this wouldn't necessarily be a problem because the driver would close the window before getting out.Read the brief!
Edited by v8s4me on Thursday 16th November 15:26
There's two adjustments you can make to stop the windows catching on the roof; the bicycle brake cable thingy is one but you can also adjust the position of the horizontal slider that the 'X' of the winder mechanism runs in, bolted to the door half way up the trailing edge.
I found by playing with the two things I could get the top of the glass parallel with the roof panel and in the correct position not to catch the roof when I open/close the doors. I had to open up the holes in the door to get enough adjustment, and as a surprising bonus the roof/window seals are more effective.
I found by playing with the two things I could get the top of the glass parallel with the roof panel and in the correct position not to catch the roof when I open/close the doors. I had to open up the holes in the door to get enough adjustment, and as a surprising bonus the roof/window seals are more effective.
Sounds like you can solve the issue properly..............
The Hatter said:
I found by playing with the two things I could get the top of the glass parallel with the roof panel and in the correct position not to catch the roof when I open/close the doors. I had to open up the holes in the door to get enough adjustment, and as a surprising bonus the roof/window seals are more effective.
Or spend hours messing around with relays, micro-switches, wire etc. This is Part 1 of how to wire a windows dropper/lifter circuit and is very straight forward. The use of this first circuit is to isolate the drivers side window motor from its TVR wired operating switch, looking at the diagram it can be seen that the window motor is not connected to the TVR operating switch due to the standard circuit being disconnected by 2 x 5 Pin Relays that have Normally Open/Normally Closed Contacts, when the ignition switch is turned to the Aux position the relays will energise and the window circuit will be as previous to the commencement of cutting the wires to terminate to the relays.
Should all those interested in a windows dropper/lifter set-up be happy with undertaking Part 1 of this PH TVR Wedges Forum Exclusive Modification - I will gladly continue with Part 2
Should all those interested in a windows dropper/lifter set-up be happy with undertaking Part 1 of this PH TVR Wedges Forum Exclusive Modification - I will gladly continue with Part 2
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