Discussion
Part 2 This now contains the the switching I have chosen so as to show the method of reversing the polarity to the Window Motor for dropping or lifting, this isn't the finished article but it does work as the best example for Part 2 before moving on to more intricate methods of switching
I have added a Fuse, 2 Relays and 2 buttons
As can be seen in the diagram, when operating the open or close button the associated Relay will energise and apply 12 Volts +ive to 1 Motor cable yet leave a 12 Volts -ive on the other Motor cable, both Motor cables are connected to permanent 12 Volt -ive's through their Relays until one or the other Relay is energised for dropping or lifting
Summary - This diagram shows a simple window drop/lift set-up and is used as an example, switching methods will be posted later and security will be added
I have added a Fuse, 2 Relays and 2 buttons
As can be seen in the diagram, when operating the open or close button the associated Relay will energise and apply 12 Volts +ive to 1 Motor cable yet leave a 12 Volts -ive on the other Motor cable, both Motor cables are connected to permanent 12 Volt -ive's through their Relays until one or the other Relay is energised for dropping or lifting
Summary - This diagram shows a simple window drop/lift set-up and is used as an example, switching methods will be posted later and security will be added
I'm putting my money where my mouth (mouse
) is and have just ordered one of THESE. When it arrives I'll hook it up to a spare lifter to see if it works as advertised.
If it does, it will be a very easy/cheap to get you a window which drops a couple of inches when you open the door. As noted above though, you'll need the normal switch to lift it back up again.
I'll post up the result as and when.
) is and have just ordered one of THESE. When it arrives I'll hook it up to a spare lifter to see if it works as advertised.If it does, it will be a very easy/cheap to get you a window which drops a couple of inches when you open the door. As noted above though, you'll need the normal switch to lift it back up again.
I'll post up the result as and when.
Note these diagrams are clickable and clickable again to go full size
Part 3
The problems with the basic Motor switching diagram above using 2 buttons are as follows
1) 2 Buttons is 1 too many, it is difficult enough attempting to conceal 1 button outside the car never mind 2.
2) Anyone witnessing the car owner operating the buttons could do the same and be able to drop the window to gain entry into the car
The below diagram solves both the above issues and gives more alternatives for operating/switching the drop/lift Relays
I will post up more alternatives that can be used to operate the drop/lift Relays later as I prefer to first show the modified diagram and know that those interested understand it up to this stage
Before I explain the operation I feel it best that I point out the following. 12 Volt positive switching has been used to operate the drop/lift Relays, if negative switching was used and a switching cable happened to short to ground/earth/return there is the possibility that the motor windings would overheat and be damaged before blowing the main Motor Fuse, I have included a fuse in the switching circuit of the below diagram and if the 12 Volt positive cable was to short out to ground/earth/return the fuse would blow and the Motor would not be damaged
About the latest diagram. I have done away with 1 of the operating buttons, the remaining button will now drop or lift the window and the drop or lift operation is dependant on whether the door lock mechanism is in the lock or unlocked position, this has been achieved by fitting a 5 wire central locking actuator to the drivers door lock mechanisms lock/unlock rod, I recall someone recently mentioning that there was an actuator in their cars door that was not connected to anything which suggests there is room to fit one
A would be thief will not be able to electrically drop the window when the drivers door is locked due to the 5 wire central locking actuator switch being in the close position meaning that when the door is locked the lift Relay will operate at the push of the button and close the window but the drop Relay circuit can't operate until the door is unlocked and the central locking actuator switch being in the open position
Please Note - I have not included the Motor part of the actuator in the below circuit as it is not used
I will be back later to explain the full getting in/out of the car and window drop/lift, I will also be adding other options for operating the switching of the Relays
Part 3
The problems with the basic Motor switching diagram above using 2 buttons are as follows
1) 2 Buttons is 1 too many, it is difficult enough attempting to conceal 1 button outside the car never mind 2.
2) Anyone witnessing the car owner operating the buttons could do the same and be able to drop the window to gain entry into the car
The below diagram solves both the above issues and gives more alternatives for operating/switching the drop/lift Relays
I will post up more alternatives that can be used to operate the drop/lift Relays later as I prefer to first show the modified diagram and know that those interested understand it up to this stage
Before I explain the operation I feel it best that I point out the following. 12 Volt positive switching has been used to operate the drop/lift Relays, if negative switching was used and a switching cable happened to short to ground/earth/return there is the possibility that the motor windings would overheat and be damaged before blowing the main Motor Fuse, I have included a fuse in the switching circuit of the below diagram and if the 12 Volt positive cable was to short out to ground/earth/return the fuse would blow and the Motor would not be damaged
About the latest diagram. I have done away with 1 of the operating buttons, the remaining button will now drop or lift the window and the drop or lift operation is dependant on whether the door lock mechanism is in the lock or unlocked position, this has been achieved by fitting a 5 wire central locking actuator to the drivers door lock mechanisms lock/unlock rod, I recall someone recently mentioning that there was an actuator in their cars door that was not connected to anything which suggests there is room to fit one
A would be thief will not be able to electrically drop the window when the drivers door is locked due to the 5 wire central locking actuator switch being in the close position meaning that when the door is locked the lift Relay will operate at the push of the button and close the window but the drop Relay circuit can't operate until the door is unlocked and the central locking actuator switch being in the open position
Please Note - I have not included the Motor part of the actuator in the below circuit as it is not used
I will be back later to explain the full getting in/out of the car and window drop/lift, I will also be adding other options for operating the switching of the Relays
jon haines said:
Thanks for that i will try and get my head round this and see if i can do it.
Ok, all being well I will get a chance tomorrow or Thursday to post a step by step of the operation procedure and also a few different switching methods. Although the diagram doesn't look too complicated the whole job is less complicated when those relays are fitted side by side and the linking wires added, I will try and include an image of the installation layout, bear with me
I've read this far with interest, being one of those who adjusted the stop wire instead....and mine STILL leaked a bit in the rain...but otherwise worked just fine.
Anyway - I can't help but point out that there are 2 pole changeover relays all over the place, which would allow one less relay than shown in the diagram,
making it simpler (and smaller too if you use the 'sugar cube' items) and it does seem to me like a solution for which there isn't really a problem in the first place.
But obviously it IS an issue on the later cars...
Anyway - I can't help but point out that there are 2 pole changeover relays all over the place, which would allow one less relay than shown in the diagram,
making it simpler (and smaller too if you use the 'sugar cube' items) and it does seem to me like a solution for which there isn't really a problem in the first place.
But obviously it IS an issue on the later cars...
Before going through the procedure for using this set-up, I have added an interior button for the driver to be able to drop the window before opening the door without having to turn the ignition key to Aux position so as to be able to drop the window with the original TVR switch
The operation/procedure for using this Dropper/Lifter circuit is as follows
1) Door in unlocked position - Drop the window to clear the Targa Top and exit vehicle
2) Close and lock door with key
3) Operate the Drop/Lift Button - Window Lifts (Will be posting some options for the button/other methods later)
Go shopping or on the piss whatever
On returning to vehicle
4) Unlock door with key
5) Operate the Drop/Lift Button - Window Drops
6) Open door and in you get
The operation/procedure for using this Dropper/Lifter circuit is as follows
1) Door in unlocked position - Drop the window to clear the Targa Top and exit vehicle
2) Close and lock door with key
3) Operate the Drop/Lift Button - Window Lifts (Will be posting some options for the button/other methods later)
Go shopping or on the piss whatever
On returning to vehicle
4) Unlock door with key
5) Operate the Drop/Lift Button - Window Drops
6) Open door and in you get
Below are a few switching methods, the circuit can be easily changed to suit any type of switching
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12v-10A-1CH-Wireless-R...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12v-10A-1CH-Wireless-R...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Set-RC36-Recessed-Doo...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140pcs-14-Types-Momenta...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V3-Microswitch-SPDT-16A-...
Remote control is nice for this circuit
A hidden button can be fitted somewhere, I like the idea of a button fitted to the bottom of the door mirror, a Reed switch can be fitted inside a screen or panel and be operated with a magnet on a key-ring
Modifying the key-lock barrel to operate a micro-switch or fitting a micro-switch to the door handle are other methods - A bit of thought and engineering
There are numerous ways of going about switching this simple circuit
Should anyone be unsure of anything please don't hesitate in asking
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12v-10A-1CH-Wireless-R...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12v-10A-1CH-Wireless-R...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Set-RC36-Recessed-Doo...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140pcs-14-Types-Momenta...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V3-Microswitch-SPDT-16A-...
Remote control is nice for this circuit
A hidden button can be fitted somewhere, I like the idea of a button fitted to the bottom of the door mirror, a Reed switch can be fitted inside a screen or panel and be operated with a magnet on a key-ring
Modifying the key-lock barrel to operate a micro-switch or fitting a micro-switch to the door handle are other methods - A bit of thought and engineering
There are numerous ways of going about switching this simple circuit
Should anyone be unsure of anything please don't hesitate in asking
RCK974X said:
I've read this far with interest, being one of those who adjusted the stop wire instead....and mine STILL leaked a bit in the rain...but otherwise worked just fine.
Anyway - I can't help but point out that there are 2 pole changeover relays all over the place, which would allow one less relay than shown in the diagram,
making it simpler (and smaller too if you use the 'sugar cube' items) and it does seem to me like a solution for which there isn't really a problem in the first place.
But obviously it IS an issue on the later cars...
What does "All over the place" in an easily read diagram meanAnyway - I can't help but point out that there are 2 pole changeover relays all over the place, which would allow one less relay than shown in the diagram,
making it simpler (and smaller too if you use the 'sugar cube' items) and it does seem to me like a solution for which there isn't really a problem in the first place.
But obviously it IS an issue on the later cars...
Please post how this is achieved with one less relay?
I put much time in to achieve this for someone that was interested, I am very interested to know how you achieved what I consider to be unachievable
I am always open to being educated
Please do upload your 3 relay simpler circuit for all to see
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff