Rover V8 EFI wont run pulling my hair out now!!!
Discussion
Thanks Been out today reset throttle pot checked wiringing, sadly still awaiting starter thought it would have been here by now,, have bailed out now feet and fingers starting to freeze, how do tools become that cold!!!
If I get to ECU stage which I think I might anyone know were to get these tested repaired , I am near Ashford kent
If I get to ECU stage which I think I might anyone know were to get these tested repaired , I am near Ashford kent
Hi
Not sure what test you are talking about but if it's the throttle butterfly test as said in my earlier post I do not hear a series of clicks at the injectors only type of clicking noise I hear is from the throttle return springs.
Jensencars came from earlier days when I had an interceptor
Not sure what test you are talking about but if it's the throttle butterfly test as said in my earlier post I do not hear a series of clicks at the injectors only type of clicking noise I hear is from the throttle return springs.
Jensencars came from earlier days when I had an interceptor
Mk11 and about11 miles to the gallon
I have also done all the electrical injector test put on earlier and the wiring all checks out and the voltages have not bridged thermostats sensor yet, but when cranking..firing there is smell of petrol but maybe not enough I have heard that today's fuel can gum up the injectors when left is has been off the road for 18 months fuel in now is fresh tho,,
I have also done all the electrical injector test put on earlier and the wiring all checks out and the voltages have not bridged thermostats sensor yet, but when cranking..firing there is smell of petrol but maybe not enough I have heard that today's fuel can gum up the injectors when left is has been off the road for 18 months fuel in now is fresh tho,,
New starter fitted spins over much happier now,
Tried Eze start still popping and banging about and can smell petrol, altering dizzy does not improve it much stops firing all together,,
Removed dizzy again stripped and checked as best as poss getting 3.6k across pick up plug, reset air gap .3mm [new module fitted last week] put back in seemed to fire better, persisted with it eventually runs all be it very rough, adjusting timing does not do much it pops back through inlet manifold,pinks coughs and spits.Also managed to fill my garage up with smoke in around a minute but this could be due to exhaust being full of unburnt fuel from trying!!
Do these dizzy's fail? ie magnetic pick up etc it doesn't appear to be worn, has had a mod to the rotor shaft [has a screws fitted down the centre as looks like plastic clip disintegrated].
Have also tried another .ecu but was told we don't know if it's any good ran very slightly worse with that one but then they could both be u/s, would be good if I could get them tried on another vehicle to prove a point.
Tried Eze start still popping and banging about and can smell petrol, altering dizzy does not improve it much stops firing all together,,
Removed dizzy again stripped and checked as best as poss getting 3.6k across pick up plug, reset air gap .3mm [new module fitted last week] put back in seemed to fire better, persisted with it eventually runs all be it very rough, adjusting timing does not do much it pops back through inlet manifold,pinks coughs and spits.Also managed to fill my garage up with smoke in around a minute but this could be due to exhaust being full of unburnt fuel from trying!!
Do these dizzy's fail? ie magnetic pick up etc it doesn't appear to be worn, has had a mod to the rotor shaft [has a screws fitted down the centre as looks like plastic clip disintegrated].
Have also tried another .ecu but was told we don't know if it's any good ran very slightly worse with that one but then they could both be u/s, would be good if I could get them tried on another vehicle to prove a point.
Hi all,
Sorry for lack of update its been pretty hectic with grandkids staying over... shipped them back home now relief {bless em}
Right still don't go unsure of my next move at present...
Had a friend come round we disconnected the fuel pump relay removed cold start injector and he squirted in eze start through injector hole while I started engine adjusted timing it ran quite nicely on eze start actually used a whole can..
Put in fuel relay it coughed and spit checked plugs it was flooded!
Took off EcU and sent off for testing, was told it had fuelling issues which I guessed from earlier injector test, told them to repair it
Week later it was back put it on still no start it's firing but will not run, took out plug there is fuel there but no where near as bad as before. Since then have fitted new coolant temp sensor, re checked readings on manual test procedures, borrowed from a colleague and fitted the following, diode pack, air flow sensor, fuel pressure reg, vacuum switch, extra air valve, new capacitor on coil [ coil and dizzy both new]
Also found cracks in injector plug wiring etc guess due to heat and age so replacement engine loom [secondhand but good condition] fitted all 3 relays under seat swapped and over run relay swapped guess what still exactly the same... im missing something stupid here....
Only things not swapped on injection system now are thermotime sensor [ but believe that only operates cold start injector] and throttle potentiometer, but mine does check out ok..
On one test it does say disconnect coil neg lead from distributor at coil terminal and put voltmeter in line and crank it should read 6-9 volts mine reads 3.3 volts, rang powerspark who manufacture the replacement distributor and spoke to technical they carried out tests on there test rig and told me they were getting around 4 volts so guessing that must be about right?
At present have selection of sledge hammers on order lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't know where I'm going next
Sorry for lack of update its been pretty hectic with grandkids staying over... shipped them back home now relief {bless em}
Right still don't go unsure of my next move at present...
Had a friend come round we disconnected the fuel pump relay removed cold start injector and he squirted in eze start through injector hole while I started engine adjusted timing it ran quite nicely on eze start actually used a whole can..
Put in fuel relay it coughed and spit checked plugs it was flooded!
Took off EcU and sent off for testing, was told it had fuelling issues which I guessed from earlier injector test, told them to repair it
Week later it was back put it on still no start it's firing but will not run, took out plug there is fuel there but no where near as bad as before. Since then have fitted new coolant temp sensor, re checked readings on manual test procedures, borrowed from a colleague and fitted the following, diode pack, air flow sensor, fuel pressure reg, vacuum switch, extra air valve, new capacitor on coil [ coil and dizzy both new]
Also found cracks in injector plug wiring etc guess due to heat and age so replacement engine loom [secondhand but good condition] fitted all 3 relays under seat swapped and over run relay swapped guess what still exactly the same... im missing something stupid here....
Only things not swapped on injection system now are thermotime sensor [ but believe that only operates cold start injector] and throttle potentiometer, but mine does check out ok..
On one test it does say disconnect coil neg lead from distributor at coil terminal and put voltmeter in line and crank it should read 6-9 volts mine reads 3.3 volts, rang powerspark who manufacture the replacement distributor and spoke to technical they carried out tests on there test rig and told me they were getting around 4 volts so guessing that must be about right?
At present have selection of sledge hammers on order lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't know where I'm going next
Right,
Started test procedures again and was not happy with resistance on distributor ignition module test Bearing in mind since this issue started I have fitted a new britpart one, then a new powerspark dizzy with a new powerspark one fitted, rang powerspark technical and spoke to them about it and they told me if I have a spark it's working,I tried to question as this controls/triggers the fuel injection circuit would it not need to be right but this was dismissed, still not happy ordered a new lucas one this arrived and ohms test carried out, it was still off from book measurement but closer so I fitted it, on cranking immediately had more fuel to plugs and car wanted to go but still not quite. I rechecked ecu relays and found where I have had the relays out so many times this weekend I had pushed one of the plug wires partially out pushed it back in and turned the key engine straight into life,,,, loads of smoke but expected that after hours of cranking great relief...
So my conclusion is something has either blown both modules (but unsure what if that is so and engine has started every time since) or they are not all up to spec and don't assume that just because you have changed it twice doesn't mean it's 100%
Just need to set up timing and idle etc now,, but that little challenge has put me back a couple of months on the restoration...
Also a big thanks to all for helping out...
Started test procedures again and was not happy with resistance on distributor ignition module test Bearing in mind since this issue started I have fitted a new britpart one, then a new powerspark dizzy with a new powerspark one fitted, rang powerspark technical and spoke to them about it and they told me if I have a spark it's working,I tried to question as this controls/triggers the fuel injection circuit would it not need to be right but this was dismissed, still not happy ordered a new lucas one this arrived and ohms test carried out, it was still off from book measurement but closer so I fitted it, on cranking immediately had more fuel to plugs and car wanted to go but still not quite. I rechecked ecu relays and found where I have had the relays out so many times this weekend I had pushed one of the plug wires partially out pushed it back in and turned the key engine straight into life,,,, loads of smoke but expected that after hours of cranking great relief...
So my conclusion is something has either blown both modules (but unsure what if that is so and engine has started every time since) or they are not all up to spec and don't assume that just because you have changed it twice doesn't mean it's 100%
Just need to set up timing and idle etc now,, but that little challenge has put me back a couple of months on the restoration...
Also a big thanks to all for helping out...
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