Rover V8 EFI wont run pulling my hair out now!!!

Rover V8 EFI wont run pulling my hair out now!!!

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jensencars

Original Poster:

66 posts

74 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
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Toltec said:
I can see you have checked that you have checked that cylinder one is timed up correctly on the dizzy, are you sure the rest of the leads are in the correct order?
hi, yes even had the wife watch over me as we went through them all to make sure I wasn't loosing the plot (but I think I am now

souper

2,433 posts

212 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
quotequote all
Could the camshaft have a different firing order especially aftermarket cams, this is quite common on some American V8s.

jensencars

Original Poster:

66 posts

74 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
quotequote all
souper said:
Could the camshaft have a different firing order especially aftermarket cams, this is quite common on some American V8s.
hi
the camshaft is the one that was in it, but dizzy cap and leads were off so don't know what it was before I bought it

Oneball

855 posts

88 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
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Is it getting air? Is the throttle disc opening? Is the flapper opening?

jensencars

Original Poster:

66 posts

74 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
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Oneball said:
Is it getting air? Is the throttle disc opening? Is the flapper opening?
hi, yes I have held the throttle butterfly open and you can hear the flapper sort of rattling when cranking

Globs

13,841 posts

232 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
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So what happened with the ez-start test, did it run at all?

jensencars

Original Poster:

66 posts

74 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
quotequote all
have been confined to office for 2 days due to phone conference calls (work from home) also starter has fried so awaiting new one I'm out and about tomorrow picking some up

jensencars

Original Poster:

66 posts

74 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
quotequote all
jensencars said:
have been confined to office for 2 days due to phone conference calls (work from home) also starter has fried so awaiting new one I'm out and about tomorrow picking some up
have also been getting educated by some very nice people on here I now understand the injection system a lot better

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

262 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
quotequote all
A notorious sensor I have not yet read about, is the coolant temperature sensor. It is the one closest to the plenum.
Probably you checked this based on the checks&list that you used, but...
If this sensor is not ok, which happens with old and even new out of the box, it can make the ECU over-fuel due to this wrong signal (too high resistance)!
Simple test is to unplug this sensor and shortcut it (better is a resistor of ???ohm to simulate a warm engine, but short cutting for the test will do) and start the engine. If it will run ok, this sensor is duff.

Another thing is to disconnect the coldstart injector to avoid again over-fueling......

Rob

jensencars

Original Poster:

66 posts

74 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
quotequote all
350zwelgje said:
A notorious sensor I have not yet read about, is the coolant temperature sensor. It is the one closest to the plenum.
Probably you checked this based on the checks&list that you used, but...
If this sensor is not ok, which happens with old and even new out of the box, it can make the ECU over-fuel due to this wrong signal (too high resistance)!
Simple test is to unplug this sensor and shortcut it (better is a resistor of ???ohm to simulate a warm engine, but short cutting for the test will do) and start the engine. If it will run ok, this sensor is duff.

Another thing is to disconnect the coldstart injector to avoid again over-fueling......

Rob
thanks have had cold start injector disconnected during this but have not bridged the temp sensor yet, it did pass its ohms test but as I have found out this is not always a true test..

KKson

3,406 posts

126 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
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I've had one CTS failure with the car running rough but when I measured the resistance it was way off. I've two or three spares now and the resistance vary a little on all, but they all run fine in the engine.

General Zod

334 posts

132 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
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CTS issues I has were rough running rather than no running. One other easy one is the plug into the ecu. Any debris or duff connections can cause all sorts of dodgy behaviour!

mrzigazaga

18,561 posts

166 months

Wednesday 14th March 2018
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The CTS has different resistance related to temp...Also be careful testing these components as you can burn out the bi-metal strip with the meter's power...

I have had an issue with my 1987 TVR Wedge RV8 3.5 EFI whereas due to the CSI not working it used to take an age to fire, especially when cold..up to 30-50 seconds of cranking....this was hammering the engine...clutch...starter and ignition parts... I retro fitted a simple cigarette lighter fitment to the two CSI wires of a spare I had and now I plug it in..Ignition on...crank for 2 seconds and once started remove it..

I know people disconnect their CSI and claim it does nothing...It does something or it would not of been fitted.

There is also an ATS (Air Temperature Sensor) inside the intake of the AFM..Its a little white dome on the top inside ...the filter end...Is it clean or gummed up.

Another tip...which can also be controversial is to unplug the ECU and leave for an hour to discharge all current from the unit, especially after replacing CTS..Thermotime...etc...Then make sure that when its plugged back in to push firmly on the plug so that it clicks into place...the last pin...13 IIRC is for the injectors...I have had the plug jump out not even a mm and the car cut out and stunk of fuel but would not start at all...The ECU is self learning...apparently...

Although having said all of this it does sound like a timing issue...Watching with intrigue....

Cheers


Ziga smile

Engineer1949

1,423 posts

145 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
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all this text speak what is a CSI



john

KKson

3,406 posts

126 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
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I was thinking the same.

General Zod

334 posts

132 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
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Cold start injector

KKson

3,406 posts

126 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
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Ah, thanks. A CSI on a fly lead through to the cigarette power socket. Interesting modification. wink

jensencars

Original Poster:

66 posts

74 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
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Thanks all for help,,
I am out on site today and tomorrow so wont be able to get to the car, as said need to replace starter now as well so waiting for that (hammered it)
you have all been really helpful so don't forget me if it goes quiet for a day or 2......

mark387mw

2,179 posts

268 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
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As Keith suggested on Monday, try another ECU. Have I missed if you’ve done that yet?

The ECU can cause all sorts of problems - mine did from not starting, to overfuelling and running on half a bank. And like you, I fried my starter motor keep trying to fire up.
I had the ECU resoldered and works better than ever.

Also on an SD1 Vitesse I had years ago, the ECU caused loss of power under load. The local Range Rover V8 people changed shed loads to no avail. One trip to Rovertec and they slaved in another ECU, sorted.

Worth eliminating I reckon.

The Hatter

988 posts

171 months

Saturday 17th March 2018
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You say no click from the injectors when you operate the throttle? That means your throttle position sensor is either not working, not set up correctly or the wiring to the ECU is dodgy. It's easy enough to check with a multimeter, it's in the vintagemodelairplane stuff. I wouldn't expect that to cause non starting but it will certainly confuse the ECU; and in my experience problems with the flapper system are typically multiple issues and not just one thing. You have to be methodical.