Rover V8 EFI wont run pulling my hair out now!!!
Discussion
Toltec said:
I can see you have checked that you have checked that cylinder one is timed up correctly on the dizzy, are you sure the rest of the leads are in the correct order?
hi, yes even had the wife watch over me as we went through them all to make sure I wasn't loosing the plot (but I think I am nowjensencars said:
have been confined to office for 2 days due to phone conference calls (work from home) also starter has fried so awaiting new one I'm out and about tomorrow picking some up
have also been getting educated by some very nice people on here I now understand the injection system a lot betterA notorious sensor I have not yet read about, is the coolant temperature sensor. It is the one closest to the plenum.
Probably you checked this based on the checks&list that you used, but...
If this sensor is not ok, which happens with old and even new out of the box, it can make the ECU over-fuel due to this wrong signal (too high resistance)!
Simple test is to unplug this sensor and shortcut it (better is a resistor of ???ohm to simulate a warm engine, but short cutting for the test will do) and start the engine. If it will run ok, this sensor is duff.
Another thing is to disconnect the coldstart injector to avoid again over-fueling......
Rob
Probably you checked this based on the checks&list that you used, but...
If this sensor is not ok, which happens with old and even new out of the box, it can make the ECU over-fuel due to this wrong signal (too high resistance)!
Simple test is to unplug this sensor and shortcut it (better is a resistor of ???ohm to simulate a warm engine, but short cutting for the test will do) and start the engine. If it will run ok, this sensor is duff.
Another thing is to disconnect the coldstart injector to avoid again over-fueling......
Rob
350zwelgje said:
A notorious sensor I have not yet read about, is the coolant temperature sensor. It is the one closest to the plenum.
Probably you checked this based on the checks&list that you used, but...
If this sensor is not ok, which happens with old and even new out of the box, it can make the ECU over-fuel due to this wrong signal (too high resistance)!
Simple test is to unplug this sensor and shortcut it (better is a resistor of ???ohm to simulate a warm engine, but short cutting for the test will do) and start the engine. If it will run ok, this sensor is duff.
Another thing is to disconnect the coldstart injector to avoid again over-fueling......
Rob
thanks have had cold start injector disconnected during this but have not bridged the temp sensor yet, it did pass its ohms test but as I have found out this is not always a true test..Probably you checked this based on the checks&list that you used, but...
If this sensor is not ok, which happens with old and even new out of the box, it can make the ECU over-fuel due to this wrong signal (too high resistance)!
Simple test is to unplug this sensor and shortcut it (better is a resistor of ???ohm to simulate a warm engine, but short cutting for the test will do) and start the engine. If it will run ok, this sensor is duff.
Another thing is to disconnect the coldstart injector to avoid again over-fueling......
Rob
The CTS has different resistance related to temp...Also be careful testing these components as you can burn out the bi-metal strip with the meter's power...
I have had an issue with my 1987 TVR Wedge RV8 3.5 EFI whereas due to the CSI not working it used to take an age to fire, especially when cold..up to 30-50 seconds of cranking....this was hammering the engine...clutch...starter and ignition parts... I retro fitted a simple cigarette lighter fitment to the two CSI wires of a spare I had and now I plug it in..Ignition on...crank for 2 seconds and once started remove it..
I know people disconnect their CSI and claim it does nothing...It does something or it would not of been fitted.
There is also an ATS (Air Temperature Sensor) inside the intake of the AFM..Its a little white dome on the top inside ...the filter end...Is it clean or gummed up.
Another tip...which can also be controversial is to unplug the ECU and leave for an hour to discharge all current from the unit, especially after replacing CTS..Thermotime...etc...Then make sure that when its plugged back in to push firmly on the plug so that it clicks into place...the last pin...13 IIRC is for the injectors...I have had the plug jump out not even a mm and the car cut out and stunk of fuel but would not start at all...The ECU is self learning...apparently...
Although having said all of this it does sound like a timing issue...Watching with intrigue....
Cheers
Ziga
I have had an issue with my 1987 TVR Wedge RV8 3.5 EFI whereas due to the CSI not working it used to take an age to fire, especially when cold..up to 30-50 seconds of cranking....this was hammering the engine...clutch...starter and ignition parts... I retro fitted a simple cigarette lighter fitment to the two CSI wires of a spare I had and now I plug it in..Ignition on...crank for 2 seconds and once started remove it..
I know people disconnect their CSI and claim it does nothing...It does something or it would not of been fitted.
There is also an ATS (Air Temperature Sensor) inside the intake of the AFM..Its a little white dome on the top inside ...the filter end...Is it clean or gummed up.
Another tip...which can also be controversial is to unplug the ECU and leave for an hour to discharge all current from the unit, especially after replacing CTS..Thermotime...etc...Then make sure that when its plugged back in to push firmly on the plug so that it clicks into place...the last pin...13 IIRC is for the injectors...I have had the plug jump out not even a mm and the car cut out and stunk of fuel but would not start at all...The ECU is self learning...apparently...
Although having said all of this it does sound like a timing issue...Watching with intrigue....
Cheers
Ziga
As Keith suggested on Monday, try another ECU. Have I missed if you’ve done that yet?
The ECU can cause all sorts of problems - mine did from not starting, to overfuelling and running on half a bank. And like you, I fried my starter motor keep trying to fire up.
I had the ECU resoldered and works better than ever.
Also on an SD1 Vitesse I had years ago, the ECU caused loss of power under load. The local Range Rover V8 people changed shed loads to no avail. One trip to Rovertec and they slaved in another ECU, sorted.
Worth eliminating I reckon.
The ECU can cause all sorts of problems - mine did from not starting, to overfuelling and running on half a bank. And like you, I fried my starter motor keep trying to fire up.
I had the ECU resoldered and works better than ever.
Also on an SD1 Vitesse I had years ago, the ECU caused loss of power under load. The local Range Rover V8 people changed shed loads to no avail. One trip to Rovertec and they slaved in another ECU, sorted.
Worth eliminating I reckon.
You say no click from the injectors when you operate the throttle? That means your throttle position sensor is either not working, not set up correctly or the wiring to the ECU is dodgy. It's easy enough to check with a multimeter, it's in the vintagemodelairplane stuff. I wouldn't expect that to cause non starting but it will certainly confuse the ECU; and in my experience problems with the flapper system are typically multiple issues and not just one thing. You have to be methodical.
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