Removal of crank pulley past x beam fhc 1981 V6
Discussion
Hi,Still carnt fathom out a way to remove front crank pulley past x beam without cutting,rewelding beam back in after replacing lip seal and pulley -with engine in situ.If this is the only way then a garage will have to do it as I have no weld kit.Any ideas greatly appreciated dave
Edited by french dave on Friday 8th June 14:16
How strong is the sump on the V6? With the V8 I can lift the engine on the sump with a wooden block to spread the load (with the gearbox still attached). Engine mountings undone of course.
With most of the hoses still attached apart from the 2 big ones it will go up about 6 inches.
Probably need some V6 peeps to come along and confirm.
With most of the hoses still attached apart from the 2 big ones it will go up about 6 inches.
Probably need some V6 peeps to come along and confirm.
Sump is tin, so can't jack up without a spreader - I use piece(s) of wood (2x4 inch or 100x50 if you are metric) wide enough to fit across to both sides of engine block,
and jack in middle as far as possible, to spread the weight to both sides.
Be careful of the drain plug as it does stick out and WILL leak if you bend the sump around it (been there !!).
Not an issue for the front pulley, but if you take the gbox off etc....
and jack in middle as far as possible, to spread the weight to both sides.
Be careful of the drain plug as it does stick out and WILL leak if you bend the sump around it (been there !!).
Not an issue for the front pulley, but if you take the gbox off etc....
There is nothing between the gbox mount and the engine mounts, and I managed to jack up enough without removing exhaust or any other bits.
The movement isn't all that much overall, you are only changing the gearbox angle a small amount..
I did have the rad removed on mine when I did this, so yes, probably main rad hoses.
It's a lot easier to get your arms in and so on with rad removed, on mine it's only 4 bolts... and probably safer not damage the core if you slip....
I think I had to take the air filter cover off as well as it fouls...err... not sure.
Can't remember if I took off main air hose - I think I did.
Access is easier with rad, air hose and air filter cover gone.
May vary a bit by exact year, but I remember only having to jack up by about 2 or 3 inches at pulley (1982 DHC).
I know there were short and long engine mount rubbers at different times , perhaps that's one of the differences ??
(My engine was VERY close to the bonnet when closed, if that helps any)
The movement isn't all that much overall, you are only changing the gearbox angle a small amount..
I did have the rad removed on mine when I did this, so yes, probably main rad hoses.
It's a lot easier to get your arms in and so on with rad removed, on mine it's only 4 bolts... and probably safer not damage the core if you slip....
I think I had to take the air filter cover off as well as it fouls...err... not sure.
Can't remember if I took off main air hose - I think I did.
Access is easier with rad, air hose and air filter cover gone.
May vary a bit by exact year, but I remember only having to jack up by about 2 or 3 inches at pulley (1982 DHC).
I know there were short and long engine mount rubbers at different times , perhaps that's one of the differences ??
(My engine was VERY close to the bonnet when closed, if that helps any)
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 10th June 00:58
Hi,thanks Andy for the info.If I could go up with the gearbox the pulley is more offset below the x member-the pulley only needs to come down 1" rather than about 5-6" upwards movement.i'd probably take propshaft off if gearbox going up -I'd have to keep an eye on everything fouling! I don't know till I try it! NOT sure but the x member welding isn't that neat -perhaps it's been removed before and put back in a slightly different position? Dave
Edited by french dave on Sunday 10th June 09:11
Well if it's similar to mine, you could put jack under engine and then remove one of the engine mounts off the block - I'ts tight, but there's just about enough room to get to
the bolts (4 on one side, 3 on the other)
then there is probably enough slack in the mount to lower front of engine by an inch or more.... and I don't think gbox tail will hit tunnel, as gbox mount is a long way back...
yes, I'm reasonably sure that won't force removal of anything other than rad hoses...
If you do this, I would loosen other side mount a little , but not remove the nuts (safety !!)
the bolts (4 on one side, 3 on the other)
then there is probably enough slack in the mount to lower front of engine by an inch or more.... and I don't think gbox tail will hit tunnel, as gbox mount is a long way back...
yes, I'm reasonably sure that won't force removal of anything other than rad hoses...
If you do this, I would loosen other side mount a little , but not remove the nuts (safety !!)
The early chassis with the horizontal cross member between suspension posts had a welded in tube. If you check the parts list, it spec's a replacement cross member with flanges on each end, the idea being if you need to remove the original you cut it out then fit the new one with three or four (can't remember) M8 screws each end.
Makes access a breeze.
Chris.
Makes access a breeze.
Chris.
Hi taz,I take it it's safe to cut out up on axle stands and the chassis won't move when it's removed?thinking of just cutting out centre section,leaving welded tube at both ends -do the crank seal and mechanically re-attach the centre section with through bolted solid rod with bolted joining flanges- so removable in the future! Dave
Hi,I've seen photos of the removable bar ,it has 2 bolts each end.I had a look over the weekend and I cannot see how you would get 2 nuts on the back through the uprights unless you removed some of the suspension? So does anyone know if there just tapped /helicoil'd into the uprights from engine bay side.this would make removal a lot simpler.Am I ok to cut out fixed cross member -without anything moving?to then fit removable one? Thanks Dave
french dave said:
Hi taz,I take it it's safe to cut out up on axle stands and the chassis won't move when it's removed?thinking of just cutting out centre section,leaving welded tube at both ends -do the crank seal and mechanically re-attach the centre section with through bolted solid rod with bolted joining flanges- so removable in the future! Dave
Dave,On my previous wedge (2.8 DH Chassis 5205) it had the horizontal tube between the uprights, I had to remove it for an engine removal, so out it came. I may of possibly not put it back in for a couple of weeks afterwards
I never had any problem, so I cant see why jacking it up while obviously being stationary would cause much issue. From memory it was drilled holes in the uprights and with a little patience nuts on the back (inside the uprights), certainly didn't tap it as it's just not thick enough and no insets were fitted. It's really not a big job.Chris.
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