Discussion
If it's been sitting there htat long take out all the spark plugs and put a couple of cc of oil down each hole, then turn over the engine with no plugs in. THis will lubricate the piston rings and allow faster turnover to get the oil pressure back up. When oil light goes out, refit spark plugs.
Well a full day replacing fuel pump and filter and fitting an inline filter between tanks and pump. Oil pressure established by the method of filling the system from the filter housing. Ignition fuse found blown but no life unless a little fuel introduced via the intake. At least there's life in igniton system? I'm not convinced that the pump is running whilst cranking. Plugs are dry. So tomorrow will put a direct supply onto the pump. Which does run. Is there a relay for the pump supply like the 2.8i? J C.
Absolutely, on the 2.8i I cut the swirl pot in half, cleaned out the crap and welded it back together. I was fortunate in that no muck had reached the metering head. Can the injectors be cleaned? Or is it a replacement item? The bible wiring diagrams are not a lot of help in tracing the fuel pump circuit. There doesn't seem to be a relay in the system.
Hi John
Pretty sure there is a relay for the fuel pump...there is also a red "Pektron" steering module relay...which I believe is a cut off device in the event of an accident.
If you remove the air filter and the fuel rail return, place the return into a jar...put the ignition on position 1...do not crank..gently push the flap on the flapper and the jar should receive a squirt of fuel if the rail is priming..You may be able to remove the injectors and soak the pintles in some cleaner...there are videos on pootube as regards to making a cleaning rig with a 1.5 v battery...and some carb cleaner...
You may as well remove the fuel rail and replace the hoses...be carefully with the injector connector plugs...they will be very brittle..;(
Worth cleaning the inside of the plenum and air ducts...
Pretty sure there is a relay for the fuel pump...there is also a red "Pektron" steering module relay...which I believe is a cut off device in the event of an accident.
If you remove the air filter and the fuel rail return, place the return into a jar...put the ignition on position 1...do not crank..gently push the flap on the flapper and the jar should receive a squirt of fuel if the rail is priming..You may be able to remove the injectors and soak the pintles in some cleaner...there are videos on pootube as regards to making a cleaning rig with a 1.5 v battery...and some carb cleaner...
You may as well remove the fuel rail and replace the hoses...be carefully with the injector connector plugs...they will be very brittle..;(
Worth cleaning the inside of the plenum and air ducts...
The Air Flow Meter...It has the air filter on one end and the air intake hose on the other..Check the connector plug on the injector resistor pack which is on the inner N/S wing...Silver module looking box, if the plug is loose then a cable tie around the plug and unit may help..
...also check the earths under the AFM...there is a bullet connector with black and white wires...that could do with a clean...
...also check the earths under the AFM...there is a bullet connector with black and white wires...that could do with a clean...
The beast lives It's been named Travis.Wiring to pump knackered through a redundant immobilzer system. Fires up but number 4 isn't doing a lot. Ignition is producing a spark and new plug didn't make any difference. Injector maybe? Or valve stuck. Compression check should identify the problem. Oil leak from corroded oil pump pipe elbow. Are these pipes available? Headlights on but refusing to raise. Not bad after 12 years rest. Oil pressure is 25psi at 800rpm. Good days work. Yes Mark clutch freed off without to much hassle. J C.
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