280 hard start and idle issue
Discussion
Hi guys,
Took the coupe out to a show this past weekend and had some issues.
First off, when cranking to start it takes longer than normal. Maybe 10-15 seconds and starts slowly and then revs up. Some times it's missing a little till you rev it a bite and other times it runs well.
When coming to a stop and pushing in the clutch it will stall and other times it idles fine.
We're should I start? I have also noticed a bit of petrol smell when it's not running right and the gas mileage is down at the same time.
Took the coupe out to a show this past weekend and had some issues.
First off, when cranking to start it takes longer than normal. Maybe 10-15 seconds and starts slowly and then revs up. Some times it's missing a little till you rev it a bite and other times it runs well.
When coming to a stop and pushing in the clutch it will stall and other times it idles fine.
We're should I start? I have also noticed a bit of petrol smell when it's not running right and the gas mileage is down at the same time.
Hi Charlie.
mmmm...that sounds like a fuel leak somewhere...check the pump fittings and fuel hoses, also sniff around the rear trim near the filler neck as that might be leaking...Did you have an accumulator on the car?...these normally have a breather on the back of the unit and will leak fuel if the diaphragm fails, it will also cause hot starting issues...you can clamp the engine feed from the accumulator and remove the breather at the rear of it.. cause the pump to run for a second or two on position 1. via removing the green plug (If fitted) on sensor plate housing...around the rubber cap area.. without cranking to see if any fuel comes out...it should not.
Hope this helps
Ziga
mmmm...that sounds like a fuel leak somewhere...check the pump fittings and fuel hoses, also sniff around the rear trim near the filler neck as that might be leaking...Did you have an accumulator on the car?...these normally have a breather on the back of the unit and will leak fuel if the diaphragm fails, it will also cause hot starting issues...you can clamp the engine feed from the accumulator and remove the breather at the rear of it.. cause the pump to run for a second or two on position 1. via removing the green plug (If fitted) on sensor plate housing...around the rubber cap area.. without cranking to see if any fuel comes out...it should not.
Hope this helps
Ziga
could you take a picture of that plug? I have a angled port that is on the outside of the filter box which swivels around that doesn't have anything attached and near the top of the fuel metering unit there is a plugged port which isn't original.
I'm also going to adjust the valves since I have no idea when it's been done in the past. that usually helps the idle as well
thanks
I'm also going to adjust the valves since I have no idea when it's been done in the past. that usually helps the idle as well
thanks
It's tending to start a bit better through more use. took it to a show this past weekend and it wouldn't idle worth a damn. Needs the valves adjusted. It may run better after that.
I did find that the equalization hose between the tanks at the top is leaking. New hose ready to go on!
Not the headlights won't work. the car eats headlight switches. One of the bullet posts in the switch gets hot and pushes in just enough to break contact. New switch on the way and a relay to take the power off the switch should cure the problem.
I did find that the equalization hose between the tanks at the top is leaking. New hose ready to go on!
Not the headlights won't work. the car eats headlight switches. One of the bullet posts in the switch gets hot and pushes in just enough to break contact. New switch on the way and a relay to take the power off the switch should cure the problem.
Penelope Stopit said:
mrzigazaga I will contact you in the near future, no love lost, I've had a few snags to work around and went into hibernation apart from posting to this forum
Cool...Sorry I have been mega busy trimming interiors...just trying to finish an FHC and have started a Chimaera...coming along though...Speak soon
Regards
Mark
The latest;
SO I adjusted the valves over the weekend and it's idling nicely now. SO on to the next two minor issues. When starting the car after sitting over night, it cranks for a while and then fires, builds up rpm's until it settles down to an nice idle. this takes 20-30 seconds. I'm guessing that since the top hose between the two fuel tanks is leaking it probably is a fuel pressure issue. Changing the hose should do the trick.
The other issue when driving along and I push in the clutch to turn a corner or into my drive, it nearly dies. Down to maybe 300-400 rpm and then climbs back up to a normal idle. Sounds like fuel pressure also. Ideas??
SO I adjusted the valves over the weekend and it's idling nicely now. SO on to the next two minor issues. When starting the car after sitting over night, it cranks for a while and then fires, builds up rpm's until it settles down to an nice idle. this takes 20-30 seconds. I'm guessing that since the top hose between the two fuel tanks is leaking it probably is a fuel pressure issue. Changing the hose should do the trick.
The other issue when driving along and I push in the clutch to turn a corner or into my drive, it nearly dies. Down to maybe 300-400 rpm and then climbs back up to a normal idle. Sounds like fuel pressure also. Ideas??
tvrmk363 said:
The latest;
SO I adjusted the valves over the weekend and it's idling nicely now. SO on to the next two minor issues. When starting the car after sitting over night, it cranks for a while and then fires, builds up rpm's until it settles down to an nice idle. this takes 20-30 seconds. I'm guessing that since the top hose between the two fuel tanks is leaking it probably is a fuel pressure issue. Changing the hose should do the trick.
The other issue when driving along and I push in the clutch to turn a corner or into my drive, it nearly dies. Down to maybe 300-400 rpm and then climbs back up to a normal idle. Sounds like fuel pressure also. Ideas??
Hi CharlieSO I adjusted the valves over the weekend and it's idling nicely now. SO on to the next two minor issues. When starting the car after sitting over night, it cranks for a while and then fires, builds up rpm's until it settles down to an nice idle. this takes 20-30 seconds. I'm guessing that since the top hose between the two fuel tanks is leaking it probably is a fuel pressure issue. Changing the hose should do the trick.
The other issue when driving along and I push in the clutch to turn a corner or into my drive, it nearly dies. Down to maybe 300-400 rpm and then climbs back up to a normal idle. Sounds like fuel pressure also. Ideas??
From cold start up...even in a warm climate the auxiliary air device (AAD) is open which means the cold start system is in operation until full working temp is reached...should idle at around 1500rpm for a short period and then settle to around 900rpm....cutting out on a turn is indicative of fuel starvation, I used to get this as I did not have a swirl pot on Delilah...
Hope this helps
Ziga
I miss stated the symptoms somewhat.
The drop in rev’s will happen anytime your driving along and push in the clutch. The car will almost stall then rev back up to normal idle. If your upshifting through the gears or down shifting you don’t notice it. But just push in the clutch and it happens
The drop in rev’s will happen anytime your driving along and push in the clutch. The car will almost stall then rev back up to normal idle. If your upshifting through the gears or down shifting you don’t notice it. But just push in the clutch and it happens
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