400SE No Start
Discussion
Hello all,
I'm new to the forum, despite having owned my 400SE since '93 when I bought it with 400 miles on the clock! It's now approaching 40k miles and I'm experiencing a similar no start problem to boylers11 with his Chim (I initially replied in his thread, sorry if that was a faux pas). Prepped it to return home from France after a prolonged stay, running perfectly on Friday, cranking but wouldn't start the following morning. I've ordered a new fuel pump, fuel filter and relay to take back to France in a couple of weeks but not sure what the issue is. Could be earthing, the aftermarket Scorpion immobiliser, nibbled cables - who knows? I'm assuming the fuel relay is in the passenger side footwell but any advice/help would be much appreciated.
I'm new to the forum, despite having owned my 400SE since '93 when I bought it with 400 miles on the clock! It's now approaching 40k miles and I'm experiencing a similar no start problem to boylers11 with his Chim (I initially replied in his thread, sorry if that was a faux pas). Prepped it to return home from France after a prolonged stay, running perfectly on Friday, cranking but wouldn't start the following morning. I've ordered a new fuel pump, fuel filter and relay to take back to France in a couple of weeks but not sure what the issue is. Could be earthing, the aftermarket Scorpion immobiliser, nibbled cables - who knows? I'm assuming the fuel relay is in the passenger side footwell but any advice/help would be much appreciated.
Hi mate
If its a flapper then remove the air intake hose or air filter from the AFM, put ignition on..do not start it!..push the flap on the AFM and listen for the fuel rail pressurising...its only seconds worth of buzz...if it does then its not your fuel pump..If there is no noise and it just turns over without trying to start, then yes then probably is the fuel pump.
Good spark?
Ziga
If its a flapper then remove the air intake hose or air filter from the AFM, put ignition on..do not start it!..push the flap on the AFM and listen for the fuel rail pressurising...its only seconds worth of buzz...if it does then its not your fuel pump..If there is no noise and it just turns over without trying to start, then yes then probably is the fuel pump.
Good spark?
Ziga
When I acquired my SEAC I had this happen on and off for a while. Removing the aftermarket immobiliser did the trick. Then after a honeymoon period the problem returned and after many tests and trials we traced the fault to the connection where the fuel pump relay plugs into the board under the glovebox (changing the relay or wiggling it about would get the car started again - usually) . After having this connection re-made all has been fine - no troubles for over 5 years.
Thanks Ziga,
It’s a late hotwire but the pump has always buzzed initially on priming - it’s not doing so now though. I’ve got a new Bosch pump & relay to take with me in case it is either of those when I go back & start trouble shooting as finding anything quickly in Normandy will be impossible. However, I’ve never checked relays before, hence the reason why I need to know where to find them (or the fuel relay in particular). It was running perfectly the night before I was due to drive it home so spark etc should all be fine.
It’s a late hotwire but the pump has always buzzed initially on priming - it’s not doing so now though. I’ve got a new Bosch pump & relay to take with me in case it is either of those when I go back & start trouble shooting as finding anything quickly in Normandy will be impossible. However, I’ve never checked relays before, hence the reason why I need to know where to find them (or the fuel relay in particular). It was running perfectly the night before I was due to drive it home so spark etc should all be fine.
I find a better overall way to check for fuel pressure (in the absence of a gauge) is to slacken off the fuel hose clip near the fuel regulator SLIGHTLY and if there's decent pressure it will start to seep out, then do it up quick.
If you have fuel pressure, next things to check are sparks and injector pulses, Keep us informed how you get on, and we'll keep the suggestions coming.
If you have fuel pressure, next things to check are sparks and injector pulses, Keep us informed how you get on, and we'll keep the suggestions coming.
An update on the no start saga:
Returned to France late on Monday and applied the necessary lubricants by way of preparation for the list of methodical checks that you have all helpfully provided. Still cranking but not starting.
Tools, tea and temperament sorted yesterday for the investigation work to begin, starting with most accessible/obvious first. A plethora of cables terminate on the positive side of the battery, two of which are protected with unblown 15A fuses. Cleaning & checking the spade connectors on the first made no difference but following the same process on the second resulted in a mildly reassuring sound of something powering up. A turn of the key & the engine fired first time!
I’ll continue the process of general checks & preparation over the coming days before the trip back but I’m loath to get too intrusive in case I start to create more problems. I have however removed the steering column cowling & tightened the through bolt on the adjustable steering column, a job I should have done years ago. All back together and now fixed in the correct position. Fingers crossed it will get back to Blighty for proper servicing and more fettling.
I’ve been very lucky (and I hope that continues!) but I’m very grateful for all of your help and support. It’s a great community resource. A big thanks to you all.
Returned to France late on Monday and applied the necessary lubricants by way of preparation for the list of methodical checks that you have all helpfully provided. Still cranking but not starting.
Tools, tea and temperament sorted yesterday for the investigation work to begin, starting with most accessible/obvious first. A plethora of cables terminate on the positive side of the battery, two of which are protected with unblown 15A fuses. Cleaning & checking the spade connectors on the first made no difference but following the same process on the second resulted in a mildly reassuring sound of something powering up. A turn of the key & the engine fired first time!
I’ll continue the process of general checks & preparation over the coming days before the trip back but I’m loath to get too intrusive in case I start to create more problems. I have however removed the steering column cowling & tightened the through bolt on the adjustable steering column, a job I should have done years ago. All back together and now fixed in the correct position. Fingers crossed it will get back to Blighty for proper servicing and more fettling.
I’ve been very lucky (and I hope that continues!) but I’m very grateful for all of your help and support. It’s a great community resource. A big thanks to you all.
So, the drive back from France started well, car running sweetly. It didn’t last! Brake pedal went after overtaking a lorry and only came back after fierce pumping, power steering rack started to leak like a sieve, fan packed up and it started to overheat when standing at the ferry terminal. Brakes fortunately returned and very gentle driving thankfully got it home to London. So, it’s now with Enginuity to get it sorted.
A couple of questions:
Brake master cylinder (3 pipe) - is that Cortina?
Power steering rack - is that Supra Engineering bespoke or a Ford part?
Basic service items to add & suspected coolant leak to investigate but otherwise it looks pretty good underneath for 27+ years.
A couple of questions:
Brake master cylinder (3 pipe) - is that Cortina?
Power steering rack - is that Supra Engineering bespoke or a Ford part?
Basic service items to add & suspected coolant leak to investigate but otherwise it looks pretty good underneath for 27+ years.
Firstly on a hot wire 400se you will find the fuel pump relay and the ECU relay hanging from the loom next to the ECU.This is stated in the 400se handbook. Secondly if your car has been unused for some time then your brake problem is almost certainly caused by sticking pistons in the rear calipers. After a few miles at motorway speeds the fluid will boil in the bridge pipe . The fan if original is a Davies criag fan, also used on the S. I had mine seize while abroad and managed to free it by squirting copious amounts of WD-40 into the bearings
Many thanks for this.
Thankfully I’ve located the relays and they’re ok as the no-start issue was quickly traced to a poor connection elsewhere.
Now pretty sure the brake issue relates to the master cylinder but I’ll keep your advice in mind.
The fan was replaced with a high performance alternative some years ago but it was on constantly before it failed on the way back and the wiring also looks poor. Cooling system therefore being checked - rad, hoses, thermostat etc.
Thankfully I’ve located the relays and they’re ok as the no-start issue was quickly traced to a poor connection elsewhere.
Now pretty sure the brake issue relates to the master cylinder but I’ll keep your advice in mind.
The fan was replaced with a high performance alternative some years ago but it was on constantly before it failed on the way back and the wiring also looks poor. Cooling system therefore being checked - rad, hoses, thermostat etc.
So, an update on the 400!
Enginuity have been right through the car and while it’s in really good shape overall, a lot needed doing. New master cylinder, p/s rack out and reconditioned, radiator out thermostat switch removed and housing soldered, new Davies Craig adj thermal switch & fan, pressure tested and put back. Various new cabling, fuse holders & electrics, purpose made battery retaining bracket (great job) & large service incl all filters, fluids, plugs, ebc pads, discs etc. Cracked veneer superbly repaired by Ged at GDK (unbelievable finish), new mat sets. Plenty of other stuff too. Car is now ready for Spa tomorrow.
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Enginuity have been right through the car and while it’s in really good shape overall, a lot needed doing. New master cylinder, p/s rack out and reconditioned, radiator out thermostat switch removed and housing soldered, new Davies Craig adj thermal switch & fan, pressure tested and put back. Various new cabling, fuse holders & electrics, purpose made battery retaining bracket (great job) & large service incl all filters, fluids, plugs, ebc pads, discs etc. Cracked veneer superbly repaired by Ged at GDK (unbelievable finish), new mat sets. Plenty of other stuff too. Car is now ready for Spa tomorrow.
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