Sparking problem
Discussion
And yet more confusion...
Tracing the white coil + lead connectivity back to the brown wires at the battery (disconnected) positive terminal is not a good idea if your car doesn't follow the wiring diagram you have in your hand
With mine, it has been modified to feed the ignition fuse and ignition coil through one of the main relays. What this does is to electrically connect the coil wire with three (or six) other fuses which control other bits. One of these other bits just happens to be the hazard warning switch, and if this is accidentally left in the on position then a route exists from the coil wire to the battery and shows 45 ohms.
So any ohm readings while tracing connectivity and looking for high resistance problems are immaterial because the ignition coil will be fed directly via one of the relays when the ignition is on.
This doesn't match my wiring diagram so it is a case of starting from first principles.
The relays (5 pin instead of 4) also seem to be wired backward to the diagram i.e. 85 and 86 swapped and 30 and 87 swapped. This doesn't make any difference (I think) but just makes it hard to trace wiring.
I will say that the relay connections needed a good roughing up, and whether the internal resistance will affect the voltage at the coil I couldn't say. Maybe new relays will solve the problem.
I am now looking at a ohm reading of 1.1 between the coil wire and the two brown wires (off the battery). This is present even when the ignition is off, so confused. I think I'll give up on this until I have to address it later.
None of this helps the OP - sorry.
Tracing the white coil + lead connectivity back to the brown wires at the battery (disconnected) positive terminal is not a good idea if your car doesn't follow the wiring diagram you have in your hand
With mine, it has been modified to feed the ignition fuse and ignition coil through one of the main relays. What this does is to electrically connect the coil wire with three (or six) other fuses which control other bits. One of these other bits just happens to be the hazard warning switch, and if this is accidentally left in the on position then a route exists from the coil wire to the battery and shows 45 ohms.
So any ohm readings while tracing connectivity and looking for high resistance problems are immaterial because the ignition coil will be fed directly via one of the relays when the ignition is on.
This doesn't match my wiring diagram so it is a case of starting from first principles.
The relays (5 pin instead of 4) also seem to be wired backward to the diagram i.e. 85 and 86 swapped and 30 and 87 swapped. This doesn't make any difference (I think) but just makes it hard to trace wiring.
I will say that the relay connections needed a good roughing up, and whether the internal resistance will affect the voltage at the coil I couldn't say. Maybe new relays will solve the problem.
I am now looking at a ohm reading of 1.1 between the coil wire and the two brown wires (off the battery). This is present even when the ignition is off, so confused. I think I'll give up on this until I have to address it later.
None of this helps the OP - sorry.
Adam, yes in my opinion the drop in voltage wasn't causing the original spark problem, it now reads 11v under load, had a great run yesterday and all fine and no fires yet.
As an aside I did lose it again last week it seemed to be flooding after running for short periods. Changed plugs and all good again, so looks like plugs deteriorated quite quickly probably lots of overfuelling while solving the problems.
Enjoying the wedge at last!
As an aside I did lose it again last week it seemed to be flooding after running for short periods. Changed plugs and all good again, so looks like plugs deteriorated quite quickly probably lots of overfuelling while solving the problems.
Enjoying the wedge at last!
adam quantrill said:
So @Bigfish, it's all running now?
I take it this is with the same observations of coil voltage as before?
If so, we can conclude that:
- the wedge will spark fine with some voltage feed drop in the supply, and
- the engine will run "sweet", and
- it won't catch fire either.
Hadn't read thisI take it this is with the same observations of coil voltage as before?
If so, we can conclude that:
- the wedge will spark fine with some voltage feed drop in the supply, and
- the engine will run "sweet", and
- it won't catch fire either.
adam quantrill said:
the wedge will spark fine with some voltage feed drop in the supply
The wedge will run at its best with a maximum voltage spark, achieved by having no volt-drop at the coil supplyadam quantrill said:
the engine will run "sweet"
The engine will run sweeter with a maximum voltage spark (sweeter includes power and fuel consumption)adam quantrill said:
it won't catch fire either
Takes a brave person to state a vehicle won't catch fire due to overheating connectors, where there's a volt-drop there's heatNot wishing to hurt your feelings, you are wrong with every above comment
The thing is, you're too switched on to be getting it all so wrong, it's a mystery, it's spooky
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