What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
colin mee said:
I am thinking of doing mine with Renovo be interested to know how it goes.colin
I'd already done the targa panel on the bench a couple of weeks ago and that came up a treat. The colourant/reviver and reproofer are like water, hence the masking. Trick is slow and steady - don't rush and don't try to put too much on in one go. A couple of coats of each and it'll look like new!
BBWF over, normal service is resumed ;^)
So - undid my plenum this evening and one trumpet fell out, one very loose and two loose but staying in place.
Left the 4 solid ones alone, cleaned off the 4 loose ones and got out a bottle of Loktite trumpet glue, stuck them down.
I now have black silicone sealant which goes brilliantly with the black painted plenum, all back together within an hour.
As the engine was nice and hot when I started the glue should go off quite quickly.
Also new oil and filter yesterday at 92000 miles. I'm now on the Comma X-Flow MOT 20W/50 and it gives good pressure when warm.
So - undid my plenum this evening and one trumpet fell out, one very loose and two loose but staying in place.
Left the 4 solid ones alone, cleaned off the 4 loose ones and got out a bottle of Loktite trumpet glue, stuck them down.
I now have black silicone sealant which goes brilliantly with the black painted plenum, all back together within an hour.
As the engine was nice and hot when I started the glue should go off quite quickly.
Also new oil and filter yesterday at 92000 miles. I'm now on the Comma X-Flow MOT 20W/50 and it gives good pressure when warm.
Edited by adam quantrill on Monday 1st July 19:55
hrepo said:
Note to all: even if the CTS is apparently OK when measured in situ, replace it anyway if you have apparent overfueling.
Took me months to chase warm starting issues and horrible mileage since the CTS was having correct readings when cold and warm. Replaced it anyway finally, and hey presto. Works now.
TL;DR: It's always the CTS. Replace it.
Also, replace the fuel hoses every 5 years. The current hoses appear to have very limited life.
Sorry to drag this back up, but I've been trawling through old posts and came across a familiar sight. The reason that hose keeps cracking is that its Chinese knock off hose. Mine lasted only a few months before having to be replaced. Don't keep using it, it is a fire risk.Took me months to chase warm starting issues and horrible mileage since the CTS was having correct readings when cold and warm. Replaced it anyway finally, and hey presto. Works now.
TL;DR: It's always the CTS. Replace it.
Also, replace the fuel hoses every 5 years. The current hoses appear to have very limited life.
Have a nosy at my write up about it here, https://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2017/09/psa-low-q...
Thanks Kelvinator.
I had a similar issue with hose that I bought, two years in a row, I did buy from a supplier, not ebag...I have looking at this stuff
https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/370z/fuel-ignition/ho...
Cheers
Ziga
I had a similar issue with hose that I bought, two years in a row, I did buy from a supplier, not ebag...I have looking at this stuff
https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/370z/fuel-ignition/ho...
Cheers
Ziga
In the garage today for the first time in a few weeks.
Doing the front brakes, as the pads were down to the last mm ;^)
I have AP 4-pots with spacers in there because of the wide vented discs. Also there are three bleed nipples per side so I am hoping for no problems bleeding out the air bubbles.
Two pistons on the offside caliper were replaced as they had become corroded (it seems to happen to the inner pistons each side, for some reason). As predicted by Leigh the trickiest part of the job was inserting the dust seals. A big 33mm socket helped here with the final pressing in. Stainless pistons in there to prevent this problem recurring, and I expect to do the same job on the nearside next time around.
Mintex 1144's are in, and I'm flushing through the fluid with fresh Dot 5.1 now the F1 is over.
Road test complete, and it brakes in a straight line now! Previously there was a pull to the left.
Doing the front brakes, as the pads were down to the last mm ;^)
I have AP 4-pots with spacers in there because of the wide vented discs. Also there are three bleed nipples per side so I am hoping for no problems bleeding out the air bubbles.
Two pistons on the offside caliper were replaced as they had become corroded (it seems to happen to the inner pistons each side, for some reason). As predicted by Leigh the trickiest part of the job was inserting the dust seals. A big 33mm socket helped here with the final pressing in. Stainless pistons in there to prevent this problem recurring, and I expect to do the same job on the nearside next time around.
Mintex 1144's are in, and I'm flushing through the fluid with fresh Dot 5.1 now the F1 is over.
Road test complete, and it brakes in a straight line now! Previously there was a pull to the left.
Edited by adam quantrill on Sunday 1st September 21:07
Bit of a drive tomorrow to RAF Cosford so thought I'd get the Wedge on the ramps as there's been an annoying rattle. Found one of the exhaust straps had torn so new one fitted. Also found the source of slight smoking on start up. Looks like theres a leak of gearbox oil from the remote on top of the box. The rear oil seal was dry but definitely leak is from top of box. Is it possible to remove and reseal remote with box in position or is it an engine and box out job?
If its a V8 with the LT77, it'll be the selector shaft seal. Cant be replaced without removing the box as its an O-ring set from the inside of the rear cover. Terrible design. A lot of people get the rear cover machined and a proper seal fitted from the outside of the housing, when they rebuild the box or have it off the car.
KelvinatorNZ said:
If its a V8 with the LT77, it'll be the selector shaft seal. Cant be replaced without removing the box as its an O-ring set from the inside of the rear cover. Terrible design. A lot of people get the rear cover machined and a proper seal fitted from the outside of the housing, when they rebuild the box or have it off the car.
Thanks for the reply. In that case I'll live with it for now. Just need to remember to top the box up twice a year. It'll stop the chassis rusting......I found in my Vitesse that it leaked its worst just after having the fluid changed or topped up, and kinda self levelled to a point where it leaked a minimal amount but was well within a safe level for a while. Its a shame the previous owner didn't keep on top of the oil level though and it had about 200ml in it when I got the car and the bearings sounded like they had eaten gravel.
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