trailing arm bolt thingy......
Discussion
G'day
Well, I got carried away with my intention to change the rear wheel bearings :-) Finally removed the annoying trailing arm and driveshaft that wouldn't play last time! Think I'll paint them too
)
Question being. You know the bolt that passes through trailing arm, bush and chassis. It would seem logical that the trailing arm should pivot on this bolt? Shouldn't it? Just checking before I attack it (tomorrow) as it currently has no intention of doing so.
I was lying under it today thinking, perhaps removing the body when I first got it and attacking it would have been a better approach. Oh well, we live and learn!
cheers
Dave
PS Driveshaft bolt versus 6 foot 3mm wall steel tube = bent socket bar but a win to me :-)
Well, I got carried away with my intention to change the rear wheel bearings :-) Finally removed the annoying trailing arm and driveshaft that wouldn't play last time! Think I'll paint them too
) Question being. You know the bolt that passes through trailing arm, bush and chassis. It would seem logical that the trailing arm should pivot on this bolt? Shouldn't it? Just checking before I attack it (tomorrow) as it currently has no intention of doing so.
I was lying under it today thinking, perhaps removing the body when I first got it and attacking it would have been a better approach. Oh well, we live and learn!
cheers
Dave
PS Driveshaft bolt versus 6 foot 3mm wall steel tube = bent socket bar but a win to me :-)
Thanks for confirming, will be well greased once beaten into submission to 'persuade' them to move at all!
ahhh, was wondering about the washers, they seem to be different in number and position than what my diagram suggests?! I assume it'll alter suspension geometry which I'll have to get properly alligned/adjusted once on the road.....
cheers
Dave
ahhh, was wondering about the washers, they seem to be different in number and position than what my diagram suggests?! I assume it'll alter suspension geometry which I'll have to get properly alligned/adjusted once on the road.....
cheers
Dave
On my old one they were normal washers with the bottoms (top or left or right dependending which way you looked at them
). U shaped. Easier to insert whilst adjusting I assume so you don't have to take the nut all the way off again etc just slacken and insert or remove. Wether that is correct or not I don't know.
). U shaped. Easier to insert whilst adjusting I assume so you don't have to take the nut all the way off again etc just slacken and insert or remove. Wether that is correct or not I don't know.As far as I've ever been able to ascertain (and believe me, this topic comes up A LOT!), the arm cannot pivot on that bolt due to the method of assembly - although you would think it a good idea for it so to do.
In fact the arm distorts (twists) the rubber bush as it moves: apparently it was designed to do that, sir. That's why TVRs own workshop manual states that the pivot shouldn't be tightened until the car is level (otherwise it would start to twist the bush as you lowered it off the jacks, leading to premature failure).
There were some discussions about a 'proper' pivot point some years back, and I believe the Tasmin Challenge cars adopted a fabricated U-bracket that serves to locate the pivot better.
Ian
In fact the arm distorts (twists) the rubber bush as it moves: apparently it was designed to do that, sir. That's why TVRs own workshop manual states that the pivot shouldn't be tightened until the car is level (otherwise it would start to twist the bush as you lowered it off the jacks, leading to premature failure).
There were some discussions about a 'proper' pivot point some years back, and I believe the Tasmin Challenge cars adopted a fabricated U-bracket that serves to locate the pivot better.
Ian
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