Stat muncher

Stat muncher

Author
Discussion

350matt

Original Poster:

3,740 posts

280 months

Sunday 16th December 2001
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Does anyone else go through V8 engine thermostats like there're going out of fashion, as I'm on the point of replacing mine yet again (6th in 4 years) after a temperature gauge 'wobble' during steady cruising, or is it just me?
Or is my engine k'ned?

Matt

jmorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Sunday 16th December 2001
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My 350 was like that. When the temp gauge didn't go up, time to change. Can't remember how often but quite a few over 7 years.

andymadmak

14,597 posts

271 months

Sunday 16th December 2001
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Hi (again) Matt

'Fraid they all do that sir!
I wouldn't worry too much about the wobbles and I doubt very much if it's the stat.
Usually I find its down to air in the system. It congregates in the heater matrix during the summer then comes out to play when you turn the heat on in the winter!
I got into the habit of bleeding mine for the winter(with heater full on and car max hot) and that mostly cures it. I still get some wobbles but all in all it sorts itself out eventually.
Relax!
Andy 400se

350matt

Original Poster:

3,740 posts

280 months

Monday 17th December 2001
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Well thats allright then, besides I've just found a small leak from the radiator return union which won't help I spose.

Matt

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Friday 21st December 2001
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I think you mean temperature. These conditions are symptoms of a faulty cooling system and probably caused by a faulty otter switch/fans so that they are not coming on at the right temp e.g. around 90 degrees. If the temp is reaching 110/120 then there is a risk of serious damage to the engine as it is overheating. You could risk warping heads, having a head gasket go etc so don't ignore it. Yes an override switch is a good investment in case the otter switch fails but I would find out why the temp is going up before hand. Check that the fans work and switch in.

This is covered in great detail in the Wedge bible.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Friday 21st December 2001
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I forgot that you mentioned that the fans kick in but at the wrong temp. So the problem is probably due to the otter switch (swine to get at if you don't remove the front headlamp pod to get to the nose radiator). You could also have a low level of fluid in the system which means that the otter switch is not getting warm enough. Chcek that. The low level could be caused by leaking caps and pipework.

The message is check that the fan switch temp is not caused by a problem elsewhere in the system.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

M@H

11,296 posts

273 months

Friday 21st December 2001
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Hi,
sorry to jump Model Groups on the forum.. but is this likely in My S1 2.9 too? My fan comes on just before the temp guage needle hits the Redline (more like is actually on it)but then cools it down to about 4/5 way up the "normal". It is consistently like this (ever since I bought it) so I've got used to watching the needle wander up and up through the "normal" range, but in ordinary (!) cars it cuts in way before this.
I've got 2 conclusions..
either.. engines getting a bit hot (but had new rad, hoses etc, just b4 purchase)
or... dodgy guage :-)
anyone??

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Friday 21st December 2001
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This is not normal. Yes the guage could be a bit duff but if the fans come in at around 90 they have a better chance of stopping the car from overheating and going into the red. This could be due to a duff switch or some other reason. If there are air locks then the temp will change as the sensor gets water or air going past it.

In many cases, the wrong spec otter switch is used because people get the land rover one or the Ford one which are considerably higher. The Land Rover even uses a 105 degree one for A/C and I've seen that installed. The fans switch in at around 120 and have little or no effect!

In other words, it is worth checking that the fans do switch in with the water temp at around 90. If not you have a problem which may or may not be afulty otter switch.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk



shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Friday 21st December 2001
quotequote all
If the otter switch is located at the top left of the rad (in the nosecone) then you need to remove the headlamp pod to get access to it. This means putiing the lights up, removing the motor fuse, removing the headlamp to get inside, disconnecting the motor linage and pivot boltsand lifting the pod out. A bit longwinded but makes access a lot easier.

It is just possible to get a hand to it from inside the engine bay and put some piggyback LUCAR connectors to do an override switch. Child slaves are useful in this. Look if you don't get the connections right, Santa won't come could be a good bit with this

If it isn't there or the rad is inside the engine bay, it could be on one of the metal pipes or the rad so have a good look round. The override switch goes in parallel with the otter switch.

Demon Tweeks do nice adjustable switches as well if you want to splash out a bit more money. They allow you to adjust the fan kick in temp to what you want.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk