part throttle hesitation on 2.5T engine

[Terry steward]

Right I have the Pressure sensor,it Is the same item as I had for the Map Sensor,,,but I'm not convinced it is the right part,,and once again my Regular mechanic says "It won't be that,as if a FPS goes,they really go" I don't know why but same as the AFM change really helped,he is sceptical about this too,,I just think,if i can improve things a little with each part I change,,that I will get the use of,I don't think it is money wasted,it is a 10 year old car,if I can eventually Eliminate the Hesitation,and then get it mapped with the Bluefin,,I should get some trouble Free motoring for a while,

[Terry steward]

It's Not the same part,as the hole for the securing bolt is the wrong side

[Terry steward]

Still got Hesitation when cold,And a couple of times this week,and once a few weeks back,after sitting 4 hours after I'd got home from work,I went out,she was a pig to start,then Chugged for 10 seconds,roared into life,and Revved high !!!! Apparently this could be the Throttle body,either wanting software update,or replacement!!!!!

So now parts fitted so far
Intake and Exhaust Solenoids
Map Sensor
Boost Solenoid
S/h good Maf Sensor
Two Coil packs
Set of Spark plugs
In edition I Only fill with Shell Optimax or Esso Supreme
Forte Injector Cleaner
Forte Petrol system cleaner

Each of which have improved things,mpg and Response,,but still the stumble on early start up until warm !!!!!

[Simon Bags]

Terry steward said:

Still got Hesitation when cold,And a couple of times this week,and once a few weeks back,after sitting 4 hours after I'd got home from work,I went out,she was a pig to start,then Chugged for 10 seconds,roared into life,and Revved high !!!! Apparently this could be the Throttle body,either wanting software update,or replacement!!!!!

So now parts fitted so far
Intake and Exhaust Solenoids
Map Sensor
Boost Solenoid
S/h good Maf Sensor
Two Coil packs
Set of Spark plugs
In edition I Only fill with Shell Optimax or Esso Supreme
Forte Injector Cleaner
Forte Petrol system cleaner

Each of which have improved things,mpg and Response,,but still the stumble on early start up until warm !!!!!

I'm close to going through the same list as I've got hesitation on my Focus ST, but only once warm. Great fun.

[Terry steward]

Also had another Throttle body,,little difference,,going into Allen Fird on Monday hope they can help !!!

[Terry steward]

Also had another Throttle body,,little difference,,going into Allen Fird on Monday hope they can help !!!

https://www.autocodes.com/p061a_ford.html

[meb90]

Small bump:

Terry did you get to a solution? Thinking I have similar symptoms.

[jezzersmax]

Me too!

My 2.5T hesitates and fluffs as the boost begins to build from 2000 rpm to 3500 rpm. Light throttle, flatout, warm or cold. Above 3500 rpm its perfect.
Flashed it with a stage 1 map but that's made it worse if anything. If it gets very warm in traffic then with flat out acceleration it kangaroos violently between 2000 rpm and 3500 rpm.

Have replaced:
Full coil pack
camshaft solenoids inlet and exhaust valves
MAF
Lambda sensor
ECU - yes, the ECU!!
Repaired wiring loom that was rubbing on the chassis leg although not rubbed through inner insulation.
All to no avail.. Only fault code showing on diagnostic is P061A.
Has got us all baffled!
Thinking of changing the boost sensor next...
Anyone any other thoughts.....?

(besides trade it in for a newer one!!)

[haggishunter]

Boost solenoid or the stty plastic valve on the side of the turbo would be my next 2 options. What’s the fault code?

[jezzersmax]

Was showing fault code: P061a with no other codes. Over the weekend its now thrown up another code and the yellow dash light. This new code is P0140:26.

Yesterday we changed the boost solenoid but no change to the way it drives and reset the codes. The dash light went out but came back on again last night so presume the P0140:26 code will be back. As I understand it, this code represent a nil output signal from the downstream Lambda sensor. Perhaps that sensor has now gone on the blink!? As I understand it though, that one doesn't feedback into the fueling mixture instructions so shouldn't affect how it runs.
But perhaps its a symptom rather than a cause...

I'm starting to think air leak in the inlet hoses after the MAF..... Garage is suggesting a smoke test.

[Terry steward]

jezzersmax said:

Me too!

My 2.5T hesitates and fluffs as the boost begins to build from 2000 rpm to 3500 rpm. Light throttle, flatout, warm or cold. Above 3500 rpm its perfect.
Flashed it with a stage 1 map but that's made it worse if anything. If it gets very warm in traffic then with flat out acceleration it kangaroos violently between 2000 rpm and 3500 rpm.

Have replaced:
Full coil pack
camshaft solenoids inlet and exhaust valves
MAF
Lambda sensor
ECU - yes, the ECU!!
Repaired wiring loom that was rubbing on the chassis leg although not rubbed through inner insulation.
All to no avail.. Only fault code showing on diagnostic is P061A.
Has got us all baffled!
Thinking of changing the boost sensor next...
Anyone any other thoughts.....?

(besides trade it in for a newer one!!)

Hi mate so sorry,not been back on for ages,,I never did get a solution !!! Each thing I had done prior to taking into Allen ford,merely gave varying degrees of the tiniest improvement,,Allen Ford Found Nothing,But didn’t charge me,so I just left it,but it started to get worse again with the cold weather.

[Terry steward]

I found a tremendous help was Putting in Forte Petrol system cleaner and Forte Injector cleaner into a tank full of Shell Optimax,Refill tank when it gets to about 1/2 full and it really Cleared up a lot of Hesitarion,

[02power]

Hi there

Any uodate here in 2020😀.
I have the same problem, suspect the TPS to cause the problem.

Please let med know if you guys ever found the problem.

Thanks

[02power]

Mine is throwing a p0299 code, would like to know if thread-starter ever got the problem fixed?.

Cheers

[bam88]

Hey fellas.. i have similiar problem with my s-max.
I've changed every possible sensor, fule injectors, fuel pump and ecu and still the car cangaroos like crazy when giving him full throtle between 2000 and 3500rpm. The only thing i've noticed so far is that this problem only happens in warm/hot weather. The entire winter when temps were under 5*C i was racing with it no problem. As soon as temps rose up to 15*C+ the problem is back.

The engine was fitted with LPG system when i bought and when it was running on LPG engine ran smooth, boosted like crazy, no cangarooing whatsoever, as soon i switched to gas it drove like poo.

I've removed LPG entirely so now i'm only driving on gasoline.

[decomarius]

Be prepared for a wall of text.
I posted this for all of you still searching for an answer for this problem that no one can find the answer, cause i myself searched an answer for 4 years cause i refused to dismember the engine( cause costs), and want to save you for searching many other forums like i did.
My car is a mondeo 2.5t huba engine code made in 10.2007. It all started with hesitations especially between 2000-3000, then a feel of a kinda overboost after 3200 rpm. Changed coils, plugs, MAF, MAP, boost solenoid for actuator, turbo actuator (this was leaking and i think doing overboost even though only once i got an overboost code), checked turbo at a turbo specialist, checked engine compression with excelent results,ECU (PCM), checked for vacuum leaks, checked timing solenoids for camshaft phasers, checked injectors if they close as they should.
All of these were changed with quality spare parts (bosch, pierburg etc). The symptoms grew in hesitations with time and engine running a little rough especially when it was cold outside. 2 weeks ago i bought a smoke machine and checked with my mechanic friend all the intake and exhaust hoses etc. I also bought special tools to check timing for this engine and all was perfect.
Went to a friend that has a tester that uses to make chiptuning and there i had the option to see misfire counts and found that 1st and 3rd cylinders were misfiring at every 2-5 secs and i could feel the effects in car and hesitations. After all of this i arrived at the conclusion that there should be something wrong with some exhaust/intake valves and valve seats. I stripped the cylinder head (god damn of work...) and went at a very well known specialist in my town. Even though visually it was kinda looking ok , i finally found the problem. The valves seats were bad, 1 exhaust valve on cylinder 1 ( the cylinder which was misfiring the most on tester) was close to brake.i dont know if the bad actuator with small overboosts led to bad valve seats.
The specialist changed the 1 very bad valve and the rest of valves/ valve seats were repaired.
The misfires occur only when the air/fuel ratio isnt controlled preciselly so if you dont have any errors, you might need to go deeper (valves, valves seats).
I read all the possible forums ( volvos, fords) to see if there are reported problems for this engine and couldnt find none except for cylinder liners, oil filter diaphgram, and boost solenoid (pretty solid engine).
I guess some of us were unlucky with a bad batch of spare parts in this engine(maybe the first batches? 10.2007 made).
I also want to say that as my 2nd job i diagnose( live data also) all kind of cars and i am pretty good at it. I know how an engine and all the sistems works. Not that this matters.
Good luck at stripping the upper part of the engine and solving the problems mates!

[NDT]

edition said:

Did you manage to sort this issue?

In the end I stuck a used MAF meter on it and it fixed it.