Waterless Engine Coolant

[Penelope Stopit]

Mr2Mike said:

Penelope Stopit said:

Thanks for the info and image
What do you mean by "coolant was renewed 5 yearly approx" Is the "5" a typo error?
Why I ask is because if all goes well I will soon be putting coolant in my replacement engine and all the metal water pipes and core plugs are as new, even inside the block where the water pump impeller turns is shiny steel, I want to keep it like this if possible
I'm well impressed with the condition of the impeller in the image, my water pump impellers have been rusting away after 2 years work, the new water pump I fitted has a plastic impeller but everything else still could become a problem

5 years is about right for OAT and HOAT coolants, 3 years for the conventional silicate based coolants.

Thanks for the info, the problem is that I don't know anything about coolants. What is OAT and HOAT? I know I could Google it but the internet contains so much nonesense that I no longer trust it,"I don't trust myself at times"

[Sardonicus]

TwinKam said:

Sardonicus said:

julian64 said:

Mr2Mike said:

julian64 said:

It is meant to have the one big advantage of no corrosion to the metal though. Even with inhibitors a normal water engine will leave corrosion behind. I understood the oil based coolants didn't do this so the inside of the water parts stays pristine.

Conventional coolants work fine provided they are replaced at the correct intervals. The corrosion inhibitors get used up with age until nothing is left and corrosion starts.

Not been my experience. Cars with adequately replaced inhibitor, and likewise in house heating systems have all suffered from corrosion in my experience.

I might try one of these new systems,, but they are certainly a lot more expensive if you have a leak.

Not in my opinion I have been on the tools for the last 33 years coolant changed on time and with quality brands virtually no corrosion and in recent years with serviced on time OAT based coolants results are the same as the above picture near 0 visible furring or corrosion just my experience thats all

Likewise in mine (38 years and still going), cooling system corrosion is simply not an issue these days (which is just as well as there are plenty of other 'issues' with today's cars...!)

Spot on fella , problems generally arise when people either mix coolant types or dilute the ratio due to a minor leak (thats often easily and cheaply fixed ) or just good old neglect that is worse now than its ever been IMO or maybe I'm just getting old and less tolerant to these fking idiots who think their cars are as simple and dependable as that transistor radio in the kitchen thats been trouble free for the last 20 years rant over TwinKam knows my words hold iron

[TwinKam]

Yep, OT but you can't even get people to check their tyre pressures regularly (which would save them tyre wear = ££££), let alone open the bonnet to check fluid levels once a month... most people don't even know which side their bonnet pull is! ... They presumably think that the pixie-of-deferred-responsibility checks it all for them... while some actually believe that the car's systems will/ should tell them... forsake
But the trade is also to blame for avoiding/not reminding of coolant/ brake fluid/ trans oil changes for fear of making routine maintenance appear too expensive...

[Gerradi]

I looked at this when I had a Cerbera 4.5.
What put me off was the design of the Cerbera AJP water pump not the fluid itself.
My reasoning (probably flawed) was that the water pump on the AJP engine has to come out and thesump also the timing cover removed in order to remove the pump . I thought the extra viscosity of the Evans fluid might take its toll so thought better of it.