Discussion
Hi folks,
Im a Chim owner (don't hold it against me) but my mate has just bought a 350i and stuck it in my garage until he sorts a garage of his own.
Everything was fine, did 200 miles or so on a couple of trips with no problems. He went away for a couple of weeks so I offered to start it up once a week like I do with my own. Starts runs fine for about 4 mins then just cuts out like someone has turned the key off, no spluttering or faltering etc. will start again straight after but cuts out more or less straight after. tries to fire after this but just floods up.
Anyone point us in the right direction ??
Im a Chim owner (don't hold it against me) but my mate has just bought a 350i and stuck it in my garage until he sorts a garage of his own.
Everything was fine, did 200 miles or so on a couple of trips with no problems. He went away for a couple of weeks so I offered to start it up once a week like I do with my own. Starts runs fine for about 4 mins then just cuts out like someone has turned the key off, no spluttering or faltering etc. will start again straight after but cuts out more or less straight after. tries to fire after this but just floods up.
Anyone point us in the right direction ??
Hi, thanks for coming back to me :-)
Battery is fine and there is a smell of fuel if you keep cranking it over. If you push the flapper with the ignition on, the fuel pump kicks in so can't see it being the relay.
Temp gauge get s to about 40 deg when it happens, thermostat hasn't opened yet.
Battery is fine and there is a smell of fuel if you keep cranking it over. If you push the flapper with the ignition on, the fuel pump kicks in so can't see it being the relay.
Temp gauge get s to about 40 deg when it happens, thermostat hasn't opened yet.
Hi mate
Firstly its not good to just start and let idle without giving it a run...The spark plugs can get sooted up very quickly as I discovered trying to sort another issue out...So I would check and clean plugs before you start replacing stuff!...
Removing the plugs is a proper faff...especially 7&8 , you will need a knuckle jointed extension, after cleaning the plugs I would remove the 9th injector...(CTS) blue plug on O/S plenum..The coolant temperature sender can be faulty and will be okay to start the car but can have a habit of telling the ECU that it is still cold so dumps loads of fuel in.....
There are a bunch of earths down on the N/S suspension turret that could do with a clean...Then there are two on the rear of the N/S rocker cover, one of these is for the ECU, then gently pull apart the bullet connector that has the black & White wires coming from the dizzy to it...Clean and push back.. Check starting and idling...Also out of interest what is it idling at when its idling?
Cheers
Ziga
Firstly its not good to just start and let idle without giving it a run...The spark plugs can get sooted up very quickly as I discovered trying to sort another issue out...So I would check and clean plugs before you start replacing stuff!...
Removing the plugs is a proper faff...especially 7&8 , you will need a knuckle jointed extension, after cleaning the plugs I would remove the 9th injector...(CTS) blue plug on O/S plenum..The coolant temperature sender can be faulty and will be okay to start the car but can have a habit of telling the ECU that it is still cold so dumps loads of fuel in.....
There are a bunch of earths down on the N/S suspension turret that could do with a clean...Then there are two on the rear of the N/S rocker cover, one of these is for the ECU, then gently pull apart the bullet connector that has the black & White wires coming from the dizzy to it...Clean and push back.. Check starting and idling...Also out of interest what is it idling at when its idling?
Cheers
Ziga
gruffalo said:
Sounds ignition related, could coil overheating, ignition amp overheating or just the HT lead from the coil to the dizzy breaking down.
What ignition system has it got on it?
If anything to do with fuel I would expect a misfire prior to cutting out.
Agree 100% - something breaking down under heat. Ignition module on dissy, coil or the HT King lead where it crosses the corner of the rocker cover would be my top three suspects. What ignition system has it got on it?
If anything to do with fuel I would expect a misfire prior to cutting out.
Tony. TCBZiga,
I was reading through the topic here and you talked about a ground near the back of the near side rocker cover. Might you have a picture of the connector or the area your talking about that you could send me?
I also have two connectors nearly in the center of the back of the engine right at the joint of the engine and trans, that are just hanging loose with nothing plugged in. Wondered what they are for?
Charlie
I was reading through the topic here and you talked about a ground near the back of the near side rocker cover. Might you have a picture of the connector or the area your talking about that you could send me?
I also have two connectors nearly in the center of the back of the engine right at the joint of the engine and trans, that are just hanging loose with nothing plugged in. Wondered what they are for?
Charlie
The negative on the battery was connected via an uninsulated cable to one of the mounting bolts that hold on the engine lifting eyes on the back of the engine.
I swapped it for an insulated one and added another cable from the front lifting eye to the chassis earth under the flapper unit. Wendy is a 350i wedge.
I swapped it for an insulated one and added another cable from the front lifting eye to the chassis earth under the flapper unit. Wendy is a 350i wedge.
Some things to go at there, thanks, I'll ha e a go and let you know. Seems to have a concoction of an alarm system, pirhana been disconnected, cobra box under dash, Gemini proximity sensor.
I'm not sure it's heat related as the engine is cool to the touch when it cuts out almost like the immobiliser is trying to kick in
Anyway, we will have a good look thanks guys!
I'm not sure it's heat related as the engine is cool to the touch when it cuts out almost like the immobiliser is trying to kick in
Anyway, we will have a good look thanks guys!
Rowley-Birkin said:
Ziga, would the coolant temperature sensor be the same as my Chimaera? If so I have a spare.
Jase.
Probably not if its a hotwire....You would need a Classic Range rover V8 efi one and with a brass nut not a plastic ones...Best to establish whether its that or not first though...A long shot but give the ECU connector a good firm push on to see if it clicks or makes a difference..Does the Wedge have a solid state fuel pressure regulator...The sealed type that yours should have?...Or is it an adjustable with a fuel pressure gauge?..(Please be the latter)...Jase.
The fuel rail may not be holding pressure...Check for leaks near plenum and in the Vee...I had a fuel puddle in there one morning when one of the fuel rail pipes was leaking!...Does it smell like raw fuel around the plenum/Rail area?
tvrmk363 said:
Ziga,
I was reading through the topic here and you talked about a ground near the back of the near side rocker cover. Might you have a picture of the connector or the area your talking about that you could send me?
I also have two connectors nearly in the center of the back of the engine right at the joint of the engine and trans, that are just hanging loose with nothing plugged in. Wondered what they are for?
Charlie
Hi CharlieI was reading through the topic here and you talked about a ground near the back of the near side rocker cover. Might you have a picture of the connector or the area your talking about that you could send me?
I also have two connectors nearly in the center of the back of the engine right at the joint of the engine and trans, that are just hanging loose with nothing plugged in. Wondered what they are for?
Charlie
I dont have a pic at the moment...The earths have ring fittings...If you have connector plugs then they could be from screen washer pump etc...Ill get a pic tomorrow...
Cheers
Ziga
Rowley-Birkin said:
Right, had a proper cleaning and investigation tonight, so far according to range rover classic genuine workshop manual diagnostics section only the coolant temperature sensor seems faulty. Will replace this and report back, everything else is clean tests ok and dry.
Jase.
Thats promising...Jase.
On a side note when testing the CTS or similar components with a multi-meter then never hold it on the contacts for too long as it can burn it out...Just thought I would share that one...
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