I knew i could get the tuscan to handle.......

[dvs_dave]

I’d suggest playing with the rear damper rates first. Tweak them up or down a little, see if that helps reduce the snappiness of the oversteer you’re getting. You can also adjust the ride height, but don’t get carried away and slam it. You want it to be operating +/- around its midpoint sweet spot, and its best to cornerweight it whilst you’re there.

[jmd68]

jmd68 said:

Hi all, I have a Sept 2001 Tuscan S with Gaz Pro shocks, and am really happy: stable even on bumps, great turn-in, very predictable.
The car is sitting pretty high (39 cm between wheel center and wheel arch both front and rear), with max caster and otherwise standard setup with 255/35/18 all around.
The biggest improvement I experienced was moving from GoodYear Eagle F1 Asymmetric(1)s to GoodYear Eagles F1 Asymmetric 5s.
With the former, I was experiencing extreme tramlining, even at 20/23PSI F/R. With the new ones, no tramlining even at 23/26PSI. Turn-in is a bit slower, but still quicker than any other car I have ever driven. (As a side note, I am running GoodYear Eagles F1 Asymmetric 5s on my Cupra Ateca daily driver, but in the more rigid SuperSport version to get acceptable steering feel - I suspect those would make the Tuscan tramline again).

Now to my only concern: The turning circle is so high that I struggle to maintain any kind of drift on track. If I don't catch a starting drift quickly, it quickly gets past the angle that can be recovered with the steering on full lock. I read that the Sagaris upper wishbones create more space for wheel angle. Does anyone know if I could use those? What about the steering rack, should I swap it for a Sagaris one, or could I adapt it to increase its reach?

Thx!

JM

Edited by jmd68 on Wednesday 19th January 14:43

Follow-up on this: When driving the Stelvio pass last June (overrated: very slow due to very tight airpins on the North side), I had to reverse to negotiate some of the air-pins, as they were tighter than the Tuscan would turn :-( . I therefore ordered the later upper wishbones, with a curved front arm - TVR C0944 & 945. Other than the curved front arm, they are identical to the originals. This gave me an extra 11mm clearance with the wheel. I then cut 5mm off the plastic tubes mounted on the steering rack, that limit its reach. Results: Turning Circle before L/R: 12.2/12.9m. After : 11.3/11.8m. This makes a real difference also around town :-)

Edited by jmd68 on Sunday 2nd July 16:53

[mk1fan]

I thought you used the right foot to negociate tight haipins

Like your thinking on the 'upgrade'.

[jmd68]

Tried that too, but the ECU didn't like being above 2,000m, so it ran so rich that the power just wasn't there. That's probably the next upgrade ;-)

[Raffaele]

good morning, I could ask if you can put the 2 spacers to adjust the caster all in front, you could have problems anchoring on the lower arm, it could break, it would perhaps be better to put a shim underneath between the lower arm and the alloy upright. Regards Raffaele

[so called]

Sagi Badger said:

The topic of many a post by a Tuscan owner. I have a Tuscan that is nicer to drive than my Sag. Maybe I am scared of wrecking the Sag but not the replaceable Tuscan?

I wrote of my 'replaceable' Mk1 Tuscan and bought a Tuscan Convertible to replace. Now I'm scared of wrecking that.