Changing tyres are home - what do I need?
Discussion
Eggman said:
Yes; a valve core remover.
Imagine a flat screwdriver, but with a notch cut into the end so it looks like a fork with short prongs. The prongs engage the valve core which unscrews from the body of the valve. Most motor factors should be able to sell you one cheaply enough.
or make one, cut enf off old screwdriver and then cut a slot in the endImagine a flat screwdriver, but with a notch cut into the end so it looks like a fork with short prongs. The prongs engage the valve core which unscrews from the body of the valve. Most motor factors should be able to sell you one cheaply enough.
http://www.bikesonline.com/syracuse-valve-core-rem...
still think the hardest part is bead breaking/removal. fitting is the easy part. some of those removal videos are using tyres with massive side walls (makes it easier). low profiles can be a proper pain in the ass even with a proper tyre machine
I reckon I've settle on the sealey walkaround stand with built in bead breaker, plus a metal bar with nylon tips as the lever, plus bubble balancer. Just need to choose a compressor and inflation adapter now. Plus of course tyre paste, weights selection and valve tool. It's looking more like £200 than £100 but I'll enjoy gaining a skill. Even if it takes 2 more seasons until I make a 'saving' I don't mind as the tools should last longer than that and they will still have a value at the end.
I take on board the comments regards low profile Tyres, and these slicks are Very low(!), but that's part of the challenge!!
I take on board the comments regards low profile Tyres, and these slicks are Very low(!), but that's part of the challenge!!
mrmr96 said:
I reckon I've settle on the sealey walkaround stand with built in bead breaker, plus a metal bar with nylon tips as the lever, plus bubble balancer. Just need to choose a compressor and inflation adapter now. Plus of course tyre paste, weights selection and valve tool. It's looking more like £200 than £100 but I'll enjoy gaining a skill. Even if it takes 2 more seasons until I make a 'saving' I don't mind as the tools should last longer than that and they will still have a value at the end.
I take on board the comments regards low profile Tyres, and these slicks are Very low(!), but that's part of the challenge!!
Having done all this myself for Motocross, then getting so angry at the effort involved and giving up, I really hope it's easier than we all imagine, or you don't value your time or skin!I take on board the comments regards low profile Tyres, and these slicks are Very low(!), but that's part of the challenge!!
Changing tyres yourself is hard work, no doubt about it, but it is quite satisfying. I've never had a car with alloy wheels, which makes things a bit easier but the principles are the same.
1st thing is cheap washing up liquid- plenty of it. Dilute slighty and apply liberally with a paint brush to any surfaces that come into contact with others at any point in the process.
Take out the valve core using your 4-in-1 valve tool:
I break the beads with one of these:
It's total overkill with car tyres and on alloys you'd do more harm than good, but it's what I have for tractor tyres so I stick with it.
There's a knack to getting the tyres off the rim because obviously the bead of the tyre is a smaller diameter than the edge of the wheel rim. I haven't watched any of the videos posted but I imagine one of them would show it more easily than I can explain it. If you are using levers it involves lots of standing on the tyre to push one side down into the most recessed part of the rim as you lever off the opposite side.
The second side is easy to get off- a rubber mallet and lever are useful to get it started.
If I'm changing valves (not always necessary, especially if you are getting through tyres quickly!) I cut the valve flush with the inside of the rim and the valve then just pulls out.
To put a new valve in, stick it through from the inside of the rim, screw your 4-in-1 tool on the valve cap threads and give it a tug. It should just pop into place.
Putting the new tyre on is pretty easy too. Again, plenty of washing up liquid and a rubber mallet does most of the work. Always start furthest fron the valve- that way you have less chance of damaging it with levers or as you force the tyre bead past it.
Now you just need to seat it. This it by far the most dangerous part of the process. For a start, never try to seat a tyre with the valve core in. If it goes wrong you have no safe way of letting the air out again. It is important to use an airline with a clip-on end, a decent length of hose (so you can position yourself to one side of the tyre as far away as possible), and a 'deflate' setting on the trigger. You also need to make sure your compressor is full so you are getting maximum air-flow. It's very rare, but if the bead of the tyre comes over the rim when seating, the tyre will fly up in the air with a lot of force. I've heard of lorry tyres going through asbestos roofs! You don't want to be stood over it when that happens!
All being well though, the tyre will seat within a few seconds with 2 very satisfying 'thud's'. If you don't hear the underside seat, or see the top side fully seat, you need to let all the air back out before having a look and either cleaning up the rim or adding more lube. This is why you leave the valve core out! If you've reached the 'maximum pressure when seating tyre' pressure (written on the sidewall) and it hasn't fully seated something is wrong! Stop, let the air out and start again!
The valve core should go in easily. If it's stiff the o-ring may be caught in the threads and it won't seal. You'll need to replace the core if this happens, but it's pretty rare on schrader valves.
Lastly, check there is no air seeping past the core by covering the end of the valve with spit or washing up liquid. If it starts to bubble, you have a leaky valve core! Take it out, inspect it and either try again or replace it.
Hope that's all useful. It's a great skill to have, and a bit of a dying art it seems.
1st thing is cheap washing up liquid- plenty of it. Dilute slighty and apply liberally with a paint brush to any surfaces that come into contact with others at any point in the process.
Take out the valve core using your 4-in-1 valve tool:
I break the beads with one of these:
It's total overkill with car tyres and on alloys you'd do more harm than good, but it's what I have for tractor tyres so I stick with it.
There's a knack to getting the tyres off the rim because obviously the bead of the tyre is a smaller diameter than the edge of the wheel rim. I haven't watched any of the videos posted but I imagine one of them would show it more easily than I can explain it. If you are using levers it involves lots of standing on the tyre to push one side down into the most recessed part of the rim as you lever off the opposite side.
The second side is easy to get off- a rubber mallet and lever are useful to get it started.
If I'm changing valves (not always necessary, especially if you are getting through tyres quickly!) I cut the valve flush with the inside of the rim and the valve then just pulls out.
To put a new valve in, stick it through from the inside of the rim, screw your 4-in-1 tool on the valve cap threads and give it a tug. It should just pop into place.
Putting the new tyre on is pretty easy too. Again, plenty of washing up liquid and a rubber mallet does most of the work. Always start furthest fron the valve- that way you have less chance of damaging it with levers or as you force the tyre bead past it.
Now you just need to seat it. This it by far the most dangerous part of the process. For a start, never try to seat a tyre with the valve core in. If it goes wrong you have no safe way of letting the air out again. It is important to use an airline with a clip-on end, a decent length of hose (so you can position yourself to one side of the tyre as far away as possible), and a 'deflate' setting on the trigger. You also need to make sure your compressor is full so you are getting maximum air-flow. It's very rare, but if the bead of the tyre comes over the rim when seating, the tyre will fly up in the air with a lot of force. I've heard of lorry tyres going through asbestos roofs! You don't want to be stood over it when that happens!
All being well though, the tyre will seat within a few seconds with 2 very satisfying 'thud's'. If you don't hear the underside seat, or see the top side fully seat, you need to let all the air back out before having a look and either cleaning up the rim or adding more lube. This is why you leave the valve core out! If you've reached the 'maximum pressure when seating tyre' pressure (written on the sidewall) and it hasn't fully seated something is wrong! Stop, let the air out and start again!
The valve core should go in easily. If it's stiff the o-ring may be caught in the threads and it won't seal. You'll need to replace the core if this happens, but it's pretty rare on schrader valves.
Lastly, check there is no air seeping past the core by covering the end of the valve with spit or washing up liquid. If it starts to bubble, you have a leaky valve core! Take it out, inspect it and either try again or replace it.
Hope that's all useful. It's a great skill to have, and a bit of a dying art it seems.
Edited by busta on Wednesday 12th October 08:08
Thats a excellent guide, pretty much how I do it (only I have more swearing and jumping up and down on the tyre! 
)
Caused a bit of smoke it did. There are easier ways.
Once I tried to cut a tractor tyre off the rim using saw and a grinder, it took forever 
and using the grinder just makes lots of smoke and it stinks! not at all recomended!!!
) supersingle said:
Leptons said:
I fitted my winters last year using my bare hands and washing up liquid, I got the idea off You Tube. The hardest part is getting the old tyres off but There were no tyres on the rims. I once cut a tyre off a rim with a hacksaw but that was more trouble than it was worth. 
I once cut a tyre off a wheel using an angle grinder. Caused a bit of smoke it did. There are easier ways.
and using the grinder just makes lots of smoke and it stinks! not at all recomended!!!jon- said:
Having done all this myself for Motocross, then getting so angry at the effort involved and giving up, I really hope it's easier than we all imagine, or you don't value your time or skin!
My thoughts exactly... only you didn't have to spend £200 on kit to find out the hard way!
h to do even with the right tools...jon- said:
Having done all this myself for Motocross, then getting so angry at the effort involved and giving up, I really hope it's easier than we all imagine, or you don't value your time or skin!
Motocross tyres are some of the worst- I usually end up making more holes in the tube than I patch up! But it's the tube that is the problem. Tubeless tyres are obviously more straight-forwardbusta said:
jon- said:
Having done all this myself for Motocross, then getting so angry at the effort involved and giving up, I really hope it's easier than we all imagine, or you don't value your time or skin!
Motocross tyres are some of the worst- I usually end up making more holes in the tube than I patch up! But it's the tube that is the problem. Tubeless tyres are obviously more straight-forwardHow not to do it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVekmC6Zf50&fea...
busta said:
How not to do it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVekmC6Zf50&fea...
Am I right in thinking his mistake was not dropping the top nearside bead into the drop centre of the alloy to make enough slack to get farside bead over the lip of the rim comfortably?Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff