MOT Ball Joint Gaiter split = FAIL
Discussion
Mrs took car for MOT today tester has failed the car on NS and OS ball joint gaiters split allowing ingress of dirt.
I was under the impression these reasons for refusal came in under the new regulations and are therefore advisory items until April?
Should I be popping round and having a chat?
I was under the impression these reasons for refusal came in under the new regulations and are therefore advisory items until April?
Should I be popping round and having a chat?
excessive play in the Joint has always been a RFR.
split gaiters on ball joints have only been advise and not a RFR until the start of this year.
VOSA have stated that the new items are advise only during the bedding in period (Jan-Mar) and a Fail from April onwards.
Ideally looking for a definitive answer on this as I need to sort this ASAP.
BTW I do intend to change them but would rather do it during the summer;)
split gaiters on ball joints have only been advise and not a RFR until the start of this year.
VOSA have stated that the new items are advise only during the bedding in period (Jan-Mar) and a Fail from April onwards.
Ideally looking for a definitive answer on this as I need to sort this ASAP.
BTW I do intend to change them but would rather do it during the summer;)
If the tester won't back down, then your next recourse will have to be to appeal the fail to VoSA themselves.
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicl...
Appeal fee you have to pay up front is the full price of an MoT - all or part of which would be refunded if you are successful - so whilst you might not WANT to do the work in the cold (and I don't blame you!) it might be in your own interest to change the items.
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicl...
Appeal fee you have to pay up front is the full price of an MoT - all or part of which would be refunded if you are successful - so whilst you might not WANT to do the work in the cold (and I don't blame you!) it might be in your own interest to change the items.
paintman said:
If the tester won't back down, then your next recourse will have to be to appeal the fail to VoSA themselves.
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicl...
Appeal fee you have to pay up front is the full price of an MoT - all or part of which would be refunded if you are successful - so whilst you might not WANT to do the work in the cold (and I don't blame you!) it might be in your own interest to change the items.
Just to put closure on this thread.http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicl...
Appeal fee you have to pay up front is the full price of an MoT - all or part of which would be refunded if you are successful - so whilst you might not WANT to do the work in the cold (and I don't blame you!) it might be in your own interest to change the items.
Went to testing station to chat to the tester he was adamant that although this RFR is a new one this year that on that particular item it was fail from the word go and that the bedding in period only applies to the electrical fail items.
As I couldn't be bothered to get into a big discussion about it I have placed an order for some dust covers and will just fit those rather than change the BBJ complete as there is no play whatsoever in the joint.
Seems crazy really I have run cars for years with split dust covers and no adverse effects.
magpie215 said:
Just to put closure on this thread.
Seems crazy really I have run cars for years with split dust covers and no adverse effects.
while i agree to some point,the joints themselves are designed to operate with grease/oil lubricant.a defective gaiter/seal could enable all lubricant to be lost and render the joint to fail quickly,the MOT tester doesn't know how the vehicle is to be used(consider a road legal off roader that is subject to frequent immersion in dirty water etc and i know the test only applies to the day)any come back to the joint/vehicle manufacturer could be negated as 'the gaiter was split'Seems crazy really I have run cars for years with split dust covers and no adverse effects.
Many years ago I was a qualified and regd MOT tester , I know things have changed since but a split steering ball joint boot was then a failable situation no question fail !.I cannot see that things have changed that much , if it was mine I would have it changed or change it my self as a matter of course , afew quid on parts and peace of mind are far better than blind faith!! ,it's not only you that may be injured or terminated .You only get one chance
one eyed mick said:
Many years ago I was a qualified and regd MOT tester , I know things have changed since but a split steering ball joint boot was then a failable situation no question fail !.I cannot see that things have changed that much , if it was mine I would have it changed or change it my self as a matter of course , afew quid on parts and peace of mind are far better than blind faith!! ,it's not only you that may be injured or terminated .You only get one chance
A steering ball joint ie track rod end or bottom ball joint with a split boot would have passed,but a split rack gaitor has always been a fail.both are fail under the new regulations.I have just had to replace a lower ball joint as it suddenly developed a severe amount of play with accompanying loud clonking noises when going over even small ripples in the road surface. The likely cause appears to be a split joint cover. This wasn't noted on the last MOT in August. Worst case is that these joints can separate, which is very likely to cause a crash or you could mount the pavement etc.
I think the issue is that dirt gets into the joint and mixes with the grease, which then becomes a pretty effective grinding paste that wears the ball joint down pretty quickly.
On a point of safety and having experienced the rapid deterioration, I would agree that split ball joint boots should be a fail and even maybe the joint should be replaced because even if you replace the boot, the dirt is still in there grinding away at the joint.
Matt
I think the issue is that dirt gets into the joint and mixes with the grease, which then becomes a pretty effective grinding paste that wears the ball joint down pretty quickly.
On a point of safety and having experienced the rapid deterioration, I would agree that split ball joint boots should be a fail and even maybe the joint should be replaced because even if you replace the boot, the dirt is still in there grinding away at the joint.
Matt
Dust covers are always a failure but one wonders how many slightly unscrupulous garages will include slightly perished ball joint covers as well as split ones?.... I do know of some that will... being in the trade (mainly classics) and more mature vehicles I change Track rod ends and ball joints all the time as they age and for MOT's and covers on many older vehicles.
I have had a "nudge" flyer from a few motor factors informing me that they are now selling ball joint covers for many applications and "universal" fit....and Delphi are pushing the message "replace ball joints" as a service item.... methinks more motoring rip off's...and less visits for servicing.... time for 2 year MOT's like the EU states...
I have had a "nudge" flyer from a few motor factors informing me that they are now selling ball joint covers for many applications and "universal" fit....and Delphi are pushing the message "replace ball joints" as a service item.... methinks more motoring rip off's...and less visits for servicing.... time for 2 year MOT's like the EU states...
lescombes said:
Dust covers are always a failure but one wonders how many slightly unscrupulous garages will include slightly perished ball joint covers as well as split ones?.... I do know of some that will... being in the trade (mainly classics) and more mature vehicles I change Track rod ends and ball joints all the time as they age and for MOT's and covers on many older vehicles.
I have had a "nudge" flyer from a few motor factors informing me that they are now selling ball joint covers for many applications and "universal" fit....and Delphi are pushing the message "replace ball joints" as a service item.... methinks more motoring rip off's...and less visits for servicing.... time for 2 year MOT's like the EU states...
Most aftermarket balljoints are complete dung though and could almost be treated as a service item they fail after such a short period of time.I have had a "nudge" flyer from a few motor factors informing me that they are now selling ball joint covers for many applications and "universal" fit....and Delphi are pushing the message "replace ball joints" as a service item.... methinks more motoring rip off's...and less visits for servicing.... time for 2 year MOT's like the EU states...
MOT standards across the country do defy belief though. I seen a vehicle recently that failed on a couple of minor issues. One was valid, the other nonsense.
And they didnt say anything about two drop link boots totally ripped. The two front discs were corroded to a dangerous level. And a rear copper brakepipe that had been replaced had been squashed in two places.
The things they failed it on were nonsense by comparison to the things they missed !
And given the state some people let their car get into in the space of a year, I really cant see that a 2 year MOT is a good thing.
I replaced the rubber boots on my Morgan's steering last year for MOT . Not essential but done for aesthetics and to make sure grease stayed on the joints.(They have grease nipples on each one and its a steering box system not rack and pinion).
I bought a set of 4 rubber boots off ebay for little money.Buyer was offering various sizes so just had to measure up and order.
Jacked front up/split each one in turn/replaced boot/greased up. Approx 1 hour in total. Fiddly bit was getting the spring seals back onto the boots, but after trial on number 1 the rest were simpler.
As no replacement of joints was done no re-alignment needed. All the joints were solid so no replacements needed.
I admit that I should have done it sooner but simply kept pumping grease to keep them covered and it kept water/dirt out. I used a bit of grease to "flush" the joints just in case.
I bought a set of 4 rubber boots off ebay for little money.Buyer was offering various sizes so just had to measure up and order.
Jacked front up/split each one in turn/replaced boot/greased up. Approx 1 hour in total. Fiddly bit was getting the spring seals back onto the boots, but after trial on number 1 the rest were simpler.
As no replacement of joints was done no re-alignment needed. All the joints were solid so no replacements needed.
I admit that I should have done it sooner but simply kept pumping grease to keep them covered and it kept water/dirt out. I used a bit of grease to "flush" the joints just in case.
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