Tightening Suspension Bolts

Tightening Suspension Bolts

Author
Discussion

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
Hi All

Quick question, following on from my previous question regarding polybushes. I have now decided to go for OEM bushes, but this leads on to how to fit them.

My car is up on axle stands, and I'm wondering how best to get the suspension to normal levels before torquing all the bolts up. In an ideal world, I'd bolt it all up loosely, put the car on my 4-post lift and torque it all up. Sadly, I don't have a 4-post...

So as a compromise, could I use a pair of jacks on the front hubs (for example) to lift the car fractionally off of the axle stands so that the weight is going through the suspension and it is compressed, then torque the bolts? I'm guessing that this does not exactly match normal ride height, but would it be close enough? Or is there a better method that I've just not thought of?

Any help appreciated.

GreenV8S

30,198 posts

284 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
The bolts that matter are the ones that prevent the bushes from twisting as you lower it onto the wheels, for example where wishbones mount to the chassis. What is stopping you from putting the car on its wheels before you tighten these bolts?

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
The bolts that matter are the ones that prevent the bushes from twisting as you lower it onto the wheels, for example where wishbones mount to the chassis. What is stopping you from putting the car on its wheels before you tighten these bolts?
I think I'd struggle to tighten them with the car on the ground, particularly the front ones where access with a torque wrench would be pretty tricky. I'm not sure I'd have the clearance.

GreenV8S

30,198 posts

284 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
These are not usually highly stressed bolts and the exact torque is usually not critical. You need to know how much torque to apply, but you should be able to get it close enough without resorting to a torque wrench. Assuming you use an ordinary spanner, can you get to the bolts OK?

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
These are not usually highly stressed bolts and the exact torque is usually not critical. You need to know how much torque to apply, but you should be able to get it close enough without resorting to a torque wrench. Assuming you use an ordinary spanner, can you get to the bolts OK?
I'll have to see. Where its double wishbone, I think I'd struggle to get to the top bolts with the wheel on even if I could access the lower ones.

Plus for my peace of mind I'd like to use a torque wrench if at all possible...

Zoobeef

6,004 posts

158 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
Just put a jack under the hub and jack it up to its normal ride position.

Piersman2

6,598 posts

199 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
Zoobeef said:
Just put a jack under the hub and jack it up to its normal ride position.
This. I did exactly this just this weekend with my lad's MGTF. It's up on my scissor lift and we replaced the front wishbones, then used a car jack and a length of wood to lift up the hubs each side until the car weight was just being lifted of the scissor arm. Then tightened the wishbone bolts and lowered the hub again.

tapkaJohnD

1,942 posts

204 months

Tuesday 12th December 2017
quotequote all
Presume you're working under the car on axle stands.
Reposition them under the hubs, bounce the suspension then the car is at normal ride height.

Not as stable as with stands under a solid shell points, but still, safer than with a jack.
John

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Wednesday 13th December 2017
quotequote all
Cheers for the feedback, all appreciated.