How would you repair this cable?
Discussion
How would you fix this before it snaps completely leaving me possibly stranded somewhere?
The vehicle is a road legal buggy. It's a cable attached to the brake pedal but it doesn't actually operate the brakes. It disengages the gearbox when you press the brakes (so to avoid changing gear on the automatic gearbox while the car is still moving).
Anyone have any cheap fix ideas for frayed cable like these? A new part is quite expensive/difficult to find
thanks
The vehicle is a road legal buggy. It's a cable attached to the brake pedal but it doesn't actually operate the brakes. It disengages the gearbox when you press the brakes (so to avoid changing gear on the automatic gearbox while the car is still moving).
Anyone have any cheap fix ideas for frayed cable like these? A new part is quite expensive/difficult to find
thanks
Can't you get cable kits where you just thread the cable through the sleeve and attach the nipples to the end?
Like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Throttle-Clut...
Like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Throttle-Clut...
Either a kit like the one mentioned above or buy a new length of correct diameter inner cable (bowden cable) & appropriately sized nipples - preferably the solder variety.
Plenty on ebay.
Push the new cable end through the narrow end of the nipple hole & then flare the end of the cable. Pull back into the wider part & solder in place. File to remove any sticking out bits.
The flaring stops the wire pulling through the solder. Silver solder would be stronger but I did mine with lead solder & never had one fail.
Done loads of these for clutch, brake & throttle cables in my early biking days as they were all cable operated.
Plenty of youtube 'how tos'.
Don't forget to feed the new inner cable through the outer cable before putting the second end on!
ETA If you can get the cable out of the old nipples then you may be able to reuse them. Easy if soldered, just heat. Don't forget the outer part will need to be flared - which can be done by drilling part way through with a larger drill bit before flare & solder.
Cable can be cut with proper cutters, a cutting disc in a grinder or if you're really stuck put a bit of tape round it, clamp in a vice between two bits of wood & use a hacksaw to cut through wood,cable & tape. Stops the end unfurling.
Plenty on ebay.
Push the new cable end through the narrow end of the nipple hole & then flare the end of the cable. Pull back into the wider part & solder in place. File to remove any sticking out bits.
The flaring stops the wire pulling through the solder. Silver solder would be stronger but I did mine with lead solder & never had one fail.
Done loads of these for clutch, brake & throttle cables in my early biking days as they were all cable operated.
Plenty of youtube 'how tos'.
Don't forget to feed the new inner cable through the outer cable before putting the second end on!
ETA If you can get the cable out of the old nipples then you may be able to reuse them. Easy if soldered, just heat. Don't forget the outer part will need to be flared - which can be done by drilling part way through with a larger drill bit before flare & solder.
Cable can be cut with proper cutters, a cutting disc in a grinder or if you're really stuck put a bit of tape round it, clamp in a vice between two bits of wood & use a hacksaw to cut through wood,cable & tape. Stops the end unfurling.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 31st May 13:51
It needs replaced, almost end of story.
Other option assuming you have spare length. Is cut the outer sheath back very carefully to expose good cable, and with a suitable tool crimp on a new end.
And it's unlikely any tool that is not hydraulic will offer enough force to achieve that
Or get the likes of speedycables to make you a new cable.
Other option assuming you have spare length. Is cut the outer sheath back very carefully to expose good cable, and with a suitable tool crimp on a new end.
And it's unlikely any tool that is not hydraulic will offer enough force to achieve that
Or get the likes of speedycables to make you a new cable.
You definitely need a new inner, and that shouldn't be difficult or expensive to replace. You will probably find that the frayed ends have also damaged the lining of the outer as well, and ideally you'd replace the outer cable too. That will be slightly harder than replacing the inner, but still not hugely difficult.
stevieturbo said:
It needs replaced, almost end of story.
Other option assuming you have spare length. Is cut the outer sheath back very carefully to expose good cable, and with a suitable tool crimp on a new end.
And it's unlikely any tool that is not hydraulic will offer enough force to achieve that
Or get the likes of speedycables to make you a new cable.
First port of call for me is speedy cablesOther option assuming you have spare length. Is cut the outer sheath back very carefully to expose good cable, and with a suitable tool crimp on a new end.
And it's unlikely any tool that is not hydraulic will offer enough force to achieve that
Or get the likes of speedycables to make you a new cable.
Another thought is could you modify a handbrake cable? I shortened one for a kit car application used a bolt for a nipple, cut head off, drilled the shank Pushed the cable end through crimped bolt shank with blunt chisel then used a mig welder to burn back the excess cable into a blob, this has remained solid for 12 years on the kit car
Edited by PaulKemp on Sunday 31st May 16:44
eBay may be your friend. 17 THOUSAND hits for "Bowden Cable", this might do the job - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Cable-Inner-Wire-...
But visit a local motorcycle workshop. Apart from Ford, they are more likely to have cable operated clutches.
But visit a local motorcycle workshop. Apart from Ford, they are more likely to have cable operated clutches.
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