Corroded brake line unions
Discussion
bayzoo said:
stevieturbo said:
Always best to practise first, so you know you will get it right when it matters....and don't forget to slide the fittings on before you flare lol
Ha you know I'm going to go this... bayzoo said:
On another note, during my mistake I seem to have damaged the threads on the die part - the nut size if 16mm. Do you think this thread file would do the trick:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Thread-Restorati...
The die's are replaceable parts. Just replace it.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Thread-Restorati...
Is the best way of checking against an old connector? Will need to hope I can remove one. Haynes doesn’t tell me and most Q&A on forums regarding this is American.
Another DIN/SAE question, the connectors you linked to don’t specify which flare it’s suitable for, is the clue in that it’s metric?
Another DIN/SAE question, the connectors you linked to don’t specify which flare it’s suitable for, is the clue in that it’s metric?
steveo3002 said:
metric = din
im 99.9% sure its 10x1mm but theres several lengths avail
Agree on 10x1mm - will need to see if I can remove one to check, or check on the Honda forum I'm a member of.im 99.9% sure its 10x1mm but theres several lengths avail
Sorry another question - a stevieturbo mentioned any joins must involve steel, is it likely the male nuts you linked to are steel (can't see that it confirms the material)?
I might be over thinking this but want to get this right first time seeing as it's the most important safety feature on my car I'm working on.
bayzoo said:
Agree on 10x1mm - will need to see if I can remove one to check, or check on the Honda forum I'm a member of.
Sorry another question - a stevieturbo mentioned any joins must involve steel, is it likely the male nuts you linked to are steel (can't see that it confirms the material)?
I might be over thinking this but want to get this right first time seeing as it's the most important safety feature on my car I'm working on.
I mean do not be tempted to join two pipes together like copper, kunifer etc directly to each other with a male/female fitting.Sorry another question - a stevieturbo mentioned any joins must involve steel, is it likely the male nuts you linked to are steel (can't see that it confirms the material)?
I might be over thinking this but want to get this right first time seeing as it's the most important safety feature on my car I'm working on.
It must use a proper steel coupler like Steve posted. Even with steel pipes this is the way to do it, but as you probably wont be using steel, that hardly matters.
Although I have seen some join steel pipes directly....I wouldn't do it myself. But copper or kunifer are too soft for that to be a reliable join
Thanks Stevie - the ones Steve recommended have arrived.
There's a small section of hard pipe between 2 Flexi hoses on each side at the rear, so my plan is to cut the hard pipe as close to the mail nut as possible so I can get a socket on there; apply a little heat and it SHOULD come free. I should then find out if it's a short or long male connector.
It seems a lot of effort but I want to practise flaring on a scrap bit of OEM pipe before I cut the main pipe coming from the front, to tackle that badly rusted union I posted a picture of.
There's a small section of hard pipe between 2 Flexi hoses on each side at the rear, so my plan is to cut the hard pipe as close to the mail nut as possible so I can get a socket on there; apply a little heat and it SHOULD come free. I should then find out if it's a short or long male connector.
It seems a lot of effort but I want to practise flaring on a scrap bit of OEM pipe before I cut the main pipe coming from the front, to tackle that badly rusted union I posted a picture of.
bayzoo said:
Yogioes said:
Good idea, what pipe bender tool are you using? 
I use this little pipe bender for some bends. Pretty sure I used it for the U bend near the end of the pipe.
For a lot of the bends, I use whatever is handy and roughly the correct radius, e.g. a spray can, the jack handle.
Work it round the curve. It is possible to do a large curve just with your fingers but it is quite easy to kink or flatten the pipe, especially if using copper.
I use Kunifer and after some practice have found it very easy to get flares.
Flaring the original steel pipe on the car is usually a bit harder.
Lots of good advice on this thread from others, particularly about checking the length of the fittings. A supplier sent me unions for joining pipe. I tightened them up and it leaked. The male thread was not long enough for the female part of the union.
And I wonder if there is anybody who has never forgotten to add the fitting before flaring the end of the pipe?
Yogioes said:
Apologies for the late response.
I use this little pipe bender for some bends. Pretty sure I used it for the U bend near the end of the pipe.
For a lot of the bends, I use whatever is handy and roughly the correct radius, e.g. a spray can, the jack handle.
Work it round the curve. It is possible to do a large curve just with your fingers but it is quite easy to kink or flatten the pipe, especially if using copper.
I use Kunifer and after some practice have found it very easy to get flares.
Flaring the original steel pipe on the car is usually a bit harder.
Lots of good advice on this thread from others, particularly about checking the length of the fittings. A supplier sent me unions for joining pipe. I tightened them up and it leaked. The male thread was not long enough for the female part of the union.
And I wonder if there is anybody who has never forgotten to add the fitting before flaring the end of the pipe?
Thanks - I actually went ahead and bought a pipe bender just like that, but as you say the radius of each bend can vary so will use what I can. I use this little pipe bender for some bends. Pretty sure I used it for the U bend near the end of the pipe.
For a lot of the bends, I use whatever is handy and roughly the correct radius, e.g. a spray can, the jack handle.
Work it round the curve. It is possible to do a large curve just with your fingers but it is quite easy to kink or flatten the pipe, especially if using copper.
I use Kunifer and after some practice have found it very easy to get flares.
Flaring the original steel pipe on the car is usually a bit harder.
Lots of good advice on this thread from others, particularly about checking the length of the fittings. A supplier sent me unions for joining pipe. I tightened them up and it leaked. The male thread was not long enough for the female part of the union.
And I wonder if there is anybody who has never forgotten to add the fitting before flaring the end of the pipe?
I’ve ordered a replacement rear sub frame from a breakers as mine is in a terrible way, and it happens to have sections of the original brake pipe and male connectors so can check/practise etc before I attack my car.
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