tyre repair kits
Discussion
Has anyone used those tyre repair kits
this type
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_DUlDbycWE
and do they ruin the tyre
Michelin CrossClimate 2 225/55 R18 V (98), Directional, M+S Stamped
gutted replaced all four tyes this time last year ,went to the dump last week , and slow punctures on both fronts , nail through the right , screw through the left ..
very slow going from 33 psi down to 30 psi over two days but not ideal .
in long term will replace , just curious if these tyre repair kits are any good
this type
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_DUlDbycWE
and do they ruin the tyre
Michelin CrossClimate 2 225/55 R18 V (98), Directional, M+S Stamped
gutted replaced all four tyes this time last year ,went to the dump last week , and slow punctures on both fronts , nail through the right , screw through the left ..
very slow going from 33 psi down to 30 psi over two days but not ideal .
in long term will replace , just curious if these tyre repair kits are any good
I have used them, used to be pretty much considered permanent way back,
Now I run OKO On-Road Light (Vehicle) Grade sealant, put it in before puncture and leave it, never had balancing issues at speed, has caught a lot of stuff over years, and usually seals within a couple of rotations once pull any object out if still inflated, doesn't freeze up or crack and deflate in winter either, unlike cheapo FixaFlat canned tosh.
Now I run OKO On-Road Light (Vehicle) Grade sealant, put it in before puncture and leave it, never had balancing issues at speed, has caught a lot of stuff over years, and usually seals within a couple of rotations once pull any object out if still inflated, doesn't freeze up or crack and deflate in winter either, unlike cheapo FixaFlat canned tosh.
I did one of these on my work van tyre on 12th October, which is a good few thousand miles ago, and it is still holding strong. The tyre is ready to be changed due to it running low on tread now. I run at the vehicles 3.5t weight limit every day to give you an idea of what it has put up with.
I smothered the insert in decent tyre cement so it would bond to the tyre.
I smothered the insert in decent tyre cement so it would bond to the tyre.
SouthHamsGaz said:
I did one of these on my work van tyre on 12th October, which is a good few thousand miles ago, and it is still holding strong. The tyre is ready to be changed due to it running low on tread now. I run at the vehicles 3.5t weight limit every day to give you an idea of what it has put up with.
I smothered the insert in decent tyre cement so it would bond to the tyre.
thanks that's encouraging , I've removed the screw dried the tyre with a heat gun and covered the wedge with lots of rubber glue , and inserted into the tyre , left it for 20mins and inflated to 32 psi , driven at 50 mph for 20 mins and will leave over night to see how durable it is I smothered the insert in decent tyre cement so it would bond to the tyre.
thanks
the front tyres probably have only 2000 miles on them , bought last year , i will swap them onto the rears though after repair just in case
Edited by Purosangue on Thursday 4th January 23:44
I've likely used these a dozen times, from my ride-on mower to my Panamera. 
They all ended up as permanent repairs - they stayed in the tyre to the end of its life.
I check them regularly after installation, every 50 miles, or so. After a couple of hundred miles, I deem them fixed in position.
I'd happily use them again. I keep several close to my heating boiler so as they're flexible/malleable.
Obviously, if a tyre was close to the legal limit, then I'd just replace.
YMMV.
They all ended up as permanent repairs - they stayed in the tyre to the end of its life.
I check them regularly after installation, every 50 miles, or so. After a couple of hundred miles, I deem them fixed in position.
I'd happily use them again. I keep several close to my heating boiler so as they're flexible/malleable.
Obviously, if a tyre was close to the legal limit, then I'd just replace.
YMMV.
Purosangue said:
Has anyone used those tyre repair kits
this type
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_DUlDbycWE
and do they ruin the tyre
Michelin CrossClimate 2 225/55 R18 V (98), Directional, M+S Stamped
gutted replaced all four tyes this time last year ,went to the dump last week , and slow punctures on both fronts , nail through the right , screw through the left ..
very slow going from 33 psi down to 30 psi over two days but not ideal .
in long term will replace , just curious if these tyre repair kits are any good
As has been covered dozens of times in multiple other threads.....this type
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_DUlDbycWE
and do they ruin the tyre
Michelin CrossClimate 2 225/55 R18 V (98), Directional, M+S Stamped
gutted replaced all four tyes this time last year ,went to the dump last week , and slow punctures on both fronts , nail through the right , screw through the left ..
very slow going from 33 psi down to 30 psi over two days but not ideal .
in long term will replace , just curious if these tyre repair kits are any good
It depends. If it's a small screw or nail etc, and in a suitable area of the tread, then yes such repairs work. I have the ARB kit shown first in the video, and it is very good. Used it multiple times.
Will they do all punctures ? of course not.
Does a lot of common sense, and some not so common sense need applied when using them ? of course it does.
ScoobyChris said:
Heard some positive reviews from people on here who have used them but, given the price of a professional plug repair at a tyre place isn’t going to break the bank, I’m not sure it’s something I’d do myself.
Chris
so called "professional" tyre place isn't at the roadside when you have a puncture, or spot the nail in your tyre.Chris
You can DIY the plug in around 60 seconds and be on your way. You will barely lose any air from the tyre either, although obviously you'd check and re-inflate as needed after anyway
Very pleased to see this thread on here as I was about to post a similar question.
On Wednesday night last week I got a puncture on a rear tyre (cross climate as it happens). In my boot I had a cheapo amazon string repair kit and a slime kit.
I located the little metal piece that was causing the issue and removed it and moved the car so that there a suitable angle to work on the puncture. I first tried the string kit. I have used this once before but on a tyre that was off the car and I found it very difficult to get the string in far enough but I did eventually manage it with brute force. But lying in a muddy layby at a crappy working angle, absolutely no chance. I tried over and over again with no joy.
I then thought I'd give the slime kit a whirl. Knowing that it would possible cost me a new tyre but by this point very soggy and just wanting t get home. First thing to do with the slime kit is to remove the valve insert with the plastic tool provided. Said plastic tool fell apart long before the insert showed any sign of wishing to move.
Tried the string kit a couple more times with no joy and then finally called my breakdown company and commenced a very irritating 3 vehicle relay to cover only 120 miles. Got home 12 hours after I set off.
Anyway, while sat in the ludicrously warm cockpits of the recovery trucks, I started to think about options to minimise risk of this happening again.
The ideal is of course a spare wheel but BMW don't provide a well for one and I know from past experience I find it a total pain in the arse having to remove it every time I need the boot space. But I think as a minimum I should make sure I keep a jack and wheel brace in the car as any repair is potentially much easier with the wheel off the car.
After that, it seems I need some better kit. As a last resort option I was going to put some Holts Tyreweld in the car as that goes through the regular valve with no disassembly.
But I'd like a repair kit. On the youtube link in the OP, there seem to be 5x kits. Which one is actually being discussed here? Is it generally still a case of using a string kit but maybe invest in a better quality one than I current cheapo thing?
On Wednesday night last week I got a puncture on a rear tyre (cross climate as it happens). In my boot I had a cheapo amazon string repair kit and a slime kit.
I located the little metal piece that was causing the issue and removed it and moved the car so that there a suitable angle to work on the puncture. I first tried the string kit. I have used this once before but on a tyre that was off the car and I found it very difficult to get the string in far enough but I did eventually manage it with brute force. But lying in a muddy layby at a crappy working angle, absolutely no chance. I tried over and over again with no joy.
I then thought I'd give the slime kit a whirl. Knowing that it would possible cost me a new tyre but by this point very soggy and just wanting t get home. First thing to do with the slime kit is to remove the valve insert with the plastic tool provided. Said plastic tool fell apart long before the insert showed any sign of wishing to move.
Tried the string kit a couple more times with no joy and then finally called my breakdown company and commenced a very irritating 3 vehicle relay to cover only 120 miles. Got home 12 hours after I set off.
Anyway, while sat in the ludicrously warm cockpits of the recovery trucks, I started to think about options to minimise risk of this happening again.
The ideal is of course a spare wheel but BMW don't provide a well for one and I know from past experience I find it a total pain in the arse having to remove it every time I need the boot space. But I think as a minimum I should make sure I keep a jack and wheel brace in the car as any repair is potentially much easier with the wheel off the car.
After that, it seems I need some better kit. As a last resort option I was going to put some Holts Tyreweld in the car as that goes through the regular valve with no disassembly.
But I'd like a repair kit. On the youtube link in the OP, there seem to be 5x kits. Which one is actually being discussed here? Is it generally still a case of using a string kit but maybe invest in a better quality one than I current cheapo thing?
Gad-Westy said:
Very pleased to see this thread on here as I was about to post a similar question.
On Wednesday night last week I got a puncture on a rear tyre (cross climate as it happens). In my boot I had a cheapo amazon string repair kit and a slime kit.
I located the little metal piece that was causing the issue and removed it and moved the car so that there a suitable angle to work on the puncture. I first tried the string kit. I have used this once before but on a tyre that was off the car and I found it very difficult to get the string in far enough but I did eventually manage it with brute force. But lying in a muddy layby at a crappy working angle, absolutely no chance. I tried over and over again with no joy.
I then thought I'd give the slime kit a whirl. Knowing that it would possible cost me a new tyre but by this point very soggy and just wanting t get home. First thing to do with the slime kit is to remove the valve insert with the plastic tool provided. Said plastic tool fell apart long before the insert showed any sign of wishing to move.
Tried the string kit a couple more times with no joy and then finally called my breakdown company and commenced a very irritating 3 vehicle relay to cover only 120 miles. Got home 12 hours after I set off.
Anyway, while sat in the ludicrously warm cockpits of the recovery trucks, I started to think about options to minimise risk of this happening again.
The ideal is of course a spare wheel but BMW don't provide a well for one and I know from past experience I find it a total pain in the arse having to remove it every time I need the boot space. But I think as a minimum I should make sure I keep a jack and wheel brace in the car as any repair is potentially much easier with the wheel off the car.
After that, it seems I need some better kit. As a last resort option I was going to put some Holts Tyreweld in the car as that goes through the regular valve with no disassembly.
But I'd like a repair kit. On the youtube link in the OP, there seem to be 5x kits. Which one is actually being discussed here? Is it generally still a case of using a string kit but maybe invest in a better quality one than I current cheapo thing?
Fairly certain both my punctures were caused by going to my local tip , both front tyres , had small Screw / Nail head in the central part of the tyre , so i knew they were repairable , these were new tyres I bought last Jan so lots of tread. On Wednesday night last week I got a puncture on a rear tyre (cross climate as it happens). In my boot I had a cheapo amazon string repair kit and a slime kit.
I located the little metal piece that was causing the issue and removed it and moved the car so that there a suitable angle to work on the puncture. I first tried the string kit. I have used this once before but on a tyre that was off the car and I found it very difficult to get the string in far enough but I did eventually manage it with brute force. But lying in a muddy layby at a crappy working angle, absolutely no chance. I tried over and over again with no joy.
I then thought I'd give the slime kit a whirl. Knowing that it would possible cost me a new tyre but by this point very soggy and just wanting t get home. First thing to do with the slime kit is to remove the valve insert with the plastic tool provided. Said plastic tool fell apart long before the insert showed any sign of wishing to move.
Tried the string kit a couple more times with no joy and then finally called my breakdown company and commenced a very irritating 3 vehicle relay to cover only 120 miles. Got home 12 hours after I set off.
Anyway, while sat in the ludicrously warm cockpits of the recovery trucks, I started to think about options to minimise risk of this happening again.
The ideal is of course a spare wheel but BMW don't provide a well for one and I know from past experience I find it a total pain in the arse having to remove it every time I need the boot space. But I think as a minimum I should make sure I keep a jack and wheel brace in the car as any repair is potentially much easier with the wheel off the car.
After that, it seems I need some better kit. As a last resort option I was going to put some Holts Tyreweld in the car as that goes through the regular valve with no disassembly.
But I'd like a repair kit. On the youtube link in the OP, there seem to be 5x kits. Which one is actually being discussed here? Is it generally still a case of using a string kit but maybe invest in a better quality one than I current cheapo thing?
I watched lots of you tube videos most advised to use glue which was not in the kit , they also mentioned to make the hole bigger with the augur tool provided , work it through the hole several times
I've actually bought the cheap amazon kit , and also bought the rubber glue ,
MILIWAN Tyre Repair Kit Heavy Duty Tyre Puncture Repair Kit 27pcs £12.99 + "2.99 glue.
These are heavy 4x4 SUV tyres ,not sure it would make a difference but not low profile 225/55 R18 V (98)
I removed the Front Drivers side Wheel , and removed the offending objects a small screw using a pair of pliers , I then used the augur bit to clean the hole and make slightly larger , I reamed several times with the augur . Then used a hair dryer to heat up around the hole , I wanted to get any moisture away for when i used the glue . I put glue onto the augur and pushed this into the tyre , I wanted to get as much glue inside the tyre it also lubricates the hole to make inserting the string easier .
I attached the string to the needle tool threaded so the string was in the middle , and coated in plenty of glue , by this stage the tyre was deflated. I then pushed the string into the tyre , i needed to use both hands in a slight twisting motion backwards and forwards whilst pushing . I was bent over the tyre , i would imagine having the wheel still on the car would not allow you the leverage required . It was quite an effort , but i managed to get the string inside the tyre , until 1/2" was sticking out both sides . I used the hair dyer to heat the tyre .
I then cut off the excess string using a blade , flush with the tyre . and inflated to 32 psi , I then swapped the front with the back so the puncture repair would be on the rear of the car . I repeated the process for the second wheel.
I found it easier to do the second tyre , I have driven over 200 miles so far and both tyres are maintaining 32 psi .
a few videos i made
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_bXo3DOdwUA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdDsdBafGK4
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/QrqtfV9QFNI
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8rgLGS9J9l8
The problem is cheap.
A friend bought a cheap kit, and it broke the handle off first time he used it. He did get the repair done, but now it's useless.
I've had this kit for many years now and used it about a dozen times. Top quality.
https://www.4x4works.co.uk/product/arb-speedy-seal...
A friend bought a cheap kit, and it broke the handle off first time he used it. He did get the repair done, but now it's useless.
I've had this kit for many years now and used it about a dozen times. Top quality.
https://www.4x4works.co.uk/product/arb-speedy-seal...
stevieturbo said:
The problem is cheap.
A friend bought a cheap kit, and it broke the handle off first time he used it. He did get the repair done, but now it's useless.
I've had this kit for many years now and used it about a dozen times. Top quality.
https://www.4x4works.co.uk/product/arb-speedy-seal...
Agree , you get what you pay for , however this cheap kit comes with an Allen key , so you can tighten the augur/ needle head , something to throw in the glovebox , I might never use again A friend bought a cheap kit, and it broke the handle off first time he used it. He did get the repair done, but now it's useless.
I've had this kit for many years now and used it about a dozen times. Top quality.
https://www.4x4works.co.uk/product/arb-speedy-seal...
If this repair lasts the life of the tyres , them im quid's in ...............if it doesn't ill bung another string in .
I was quoted £35 +Vat for repair of each tyre from our local tyre shop that's £84 the kit cost me £15.98 , its repaired both tyres anything else is a bonus
but agree if I was repairing lots of tyres I would invest in a more durable kit
cheers
edit most modern cars that dont have spares come with tyre sealant , ive never used this because it will ruin the tyre once used , but the kit normally comes with a compressor , this combined with the thread repair kit and jack i think is the best solution
Edited by Purosangue on Sunday 7th January 17:09
Purosangue said:
Fairly certain both my punctures were caused by going to my local tip , both front tyres , had small Screw / Nail head in the central part of the tyre , so i knew they were repairable , these were new tyres I bought last Jan so lots of tread.
I watched lots of you tube videos most advised to use glue which was not in the kit , they also mentioned to make the hole bigger with the augur tool provided , work it through the hole several times
I've actually bought the cheap amazon kit , and also bought the rubber glue ,
MILIWAN Tyre Repair Kit Heavy Duty Tyre Puncture Repair Kit 27pcs £12.99 + "2.99 glue.
These are heavy 4x4 SUV tyres ,not sure it would make a difference but not low profile 225/55 R18 V (98)
I removed the Front Drivers side Wheel , and removed the offending objects a small screw using a pair of pliers , I then used the augur bit to clean the hole and make slightly larger , I reamed several times with the augur . Then used a hair dryer to heat up around the hole , I wanted to get any moisture away for when i used the glue . I put glue onto the augur and pushed this into the tyre , I wanted to get as much glue inside the tyre it also lubricates the hole to make inserting the string easier .
I attached the string to the needle tool threaded so the string was in the middle , and coated in plenty of glue , by this stage the tyre was deflated. I then pushed the string into the tyre , i needed to use both hands in a slight twisting motion backwards and forwards whilst pushing . I was bent over the tyre , i would imagine having the wheel still on the car would not allow you the leverage required . It was quite an effort , but i managed to get the string inside the tyre , until 1/2" was sticking out both sides . I used the hair dyer to heat the tyre .
I then cut off the excess string using a blade , flush with the tyre . and inflated to 32 psi , I then swapped the front with the back so the puncture repair would be on the rear of the car . I repeated the process for the second wheel.
I found it easier to do the second tyre , I have driven over 200 miles so far and both tyres are maintaining 32 psi .
a few videos i made
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_bXo3DOdwUA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdDsdBafGK4
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/QrqtfV9QFNI
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8rgLGS9J9l8
Many thanks for this I notice your kit comes with an auger and a reamer where as mine only has the reamer, though I did get glue with mine. Your videos are great but skip the bit I struggled with which was getting the string in the hole. I feel like I've followed every tip including using the glue as a lubricant and pressuring the tyre to give something to react against. Bloody hard work off the car, seemingly impossible on the car. The hole made by the reamer alone simply seems too tight though I realise it must be a balancing act. How important would you say the hair drier aspect is? I ask as I'm specifically interested in road side repairs for which I'll obviously not have a hair drier. My local garage will internally plug a tyre for £15 so I'm just not bothered about punctures at home. I watched lots of you tube videos most advised to use glue which was not in the kit , they also mentioned to make the hole bigger with the augur tool provided , work it through the hole several times
I've actually bought the cheap amazon kit , and also bought the rubber glue ,
MILIWAN Tyre Repair Kit Heavy Duty Tyre Puncture Repair Kit 27pcs £12.99 + "2.99 glue.
These are heavy 4x4 SUV tyres ,not sure it would make a difference but not low profile 225/55 R18 V (98)
I removed the Front Drivers side Wheel , and removed the offending objects a small screw using a pair of pliers , I then used the augur bit to clean the hole and make slightly larger , I reamed several times with the augur . Then used a hair dryer to heat up around the hole , I wanted to get any moisture away for when i used the glue . I put glue onto the augur and pushed this into the tyre , I wanted to get as much glue inside the tyre it also lubricates the hole to make inserting the string easier .
I attached the string to the needle tool threaded so the string was in the middle , and coated in plenty of glue , by this stage the tyre was deflated. I then pushed the string into the tyre , i needed to use both hands in a slight twisting motion backwards and forwards whilst pushing . I was bent over the tyre , i would imagine having the wheel still on the car would not allow you the leverage required . It was quite an effort , but i managed to get the string inside the tyre , until 1/2" was sticking out both sides . I used the hair dyer to heat the tyre .
I then cut off the excess string using a blade , flush with the tyre . and inflated to 32 psi , I then swapped the front with the back so the puncture repair would be on the rear of the car . I repeated the process for the second wheel.
I found it easier to do the second tyre , I have driven over 200 miles so far and both tyres are maintaining 32 psi .
a few videos i made
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_bXo3DOdwUA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdDsdBafGK4
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/QrqtfV9QFNI
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8rgLGS9J9l8
stevieturbo said:
The problem is cheap.
A friend bought a cheap kit, and it broke the handle off first time he used it. He did get the repair done, but now it's useless.
I've had this kit for many years now and used it about a dozen times. Top quality.
https://www.4x4works.co.uk/product/arb-speedy-seal...
I'm happy to buy a better kit and will take that recommendation on board. But maybe worth mentioning that nothing on my kit has broken, I just can't get the string through the hole even giving it all my welly! Perhaps tolerances are better controlled on the more expensive kits though. A friend bought a cheap kit, and it broke the handle off first time he used it. He did get the repair done, but now it's useless.
I've had this kit for many years now and used it about a dozen times. Top quality.
https://www.4x4works.co.uk/product/arb-speedy-seal...
Rough plan at the moment is to buy a jack, a long wheel brace and a kit like the above and keep a compressor in the car. Should be enough.
Gad-Westy said:
Many thanks for this I notice your kit comes with an auger and a reamer where as mine only has the reamer, though I did get glue with mine. Your videos are great but skip the bit I struggled with which was getting the string in the hole. I feel like I've followed every tip including using the glue as a lubricant and pressuring the tyre to give something to react against. Bloody hard work off the car, seemingly impossible on the car. The hole made by the reamer alone simply seems too tight though I realise it must be a balancing act. How important would you say the hair drier aspect is? I ask as I'm specifically interested in road side repairs for which I'll obviously not have a hair drier. My local garage will internally plug a tyre for £15 so I'm just not bothered about punctures at home.
I guess the reamer augur tool should be slightly proud of the Needle tool , I reamed the hole at least 6 times each time I went in leaving at least 2" of tool exposed in case it came off , It does seem pretty durable I fully deflated the tyres before the repair I don't know whether inflation causes more resistance than fully deflated
, the use of the rubber glue made sense as you want as much advantage in sealing the hole , It had been raining and I was doing the repair on the drive , so had access to the hairdryer the idea being to heat up the tyre to help the glue stick easier > no idea if this actually helps but I don't think it would hurt , on the side of the road obviously i wouldn't be able to do this but I would wipe the tyre and use a cloth to dry as best I could
I used loads of glue , It helped to slightly rotate the needle as you push , I had to use both hands once you get it started to should just be ok maintain the pressure until the required depth is achieved
added video link to installing needle but had to put phone down as needed both hands
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oWd_Vkx3U4
photos from inside the tyre showing process
hope this helps
edit £15 for a garage repair is a bargain that would be wheel off , remove tyre , clean make good internal surface of tyre apply rubber sealant , internal patch repair , apply rubber compound , tyre back on , wheel back on inflate and finish .
I was quoted twice that , However Im happy to repair the Mitsubishi in this manner ,as i don't really go above 70 mph we live in rural New Forest .........but on a high performance car im not sure
Edited by Purosangue on Sunday 7th January 19:32
Gad-Westy said:
I'm happy to buy a better kit and will take that recommendation on board. But maybe worth mentioning that nothing on my kit has broken, I just can't get the string through the hole even giving it all my welly! Perhaps tolerances are better controlled on the more expensive kits though.
Rough plan at the moment is to buy a jack, a long wheel brace and a kit like the above and keep a compressor in the car. Should be enough.
Remove screw, ream hole with the reamer, using a small dab of lube as necessary. Rough plan at the moment is to buy a jack, a long wheel brace and a kit like the above and keep a compressor in the car. Should be enough.
Likewise when then inserting the string, add a little lube if needed.
The hardest bit on my kit, is getting the string into the holder for insertion.. It's just fiddly
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