Replacing a wheel bearing - HELP PLEASE

Replacing a wheel bearing - HELP PLEASE

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Deluded

Original Poster:

4,968 posts

192 months

Wednesday 11th November 2009
quotequote all
Not sure if this is the right place but fingers crossed I will get a reply quickly here anyway.

I'm replacing a rear wheel bearing on the missus' car at the moment. I've done them before on numerous other cars and had similar problems but never as bad as this.

Basically, I've removed the old bearing from the axle thingy in the drum but because it's worn, part of the bearing has remained on the axle. In the past when this has happened I have just used a screw driver to pop it off, maybe a hammer to encourage it too. On ts one though, it just wont budge. I have hammered it and tried clamping mole grips on to turn it but nowt will shift it.

Whats the best thing to do next? I have aquired a hot air gun (not a blow torch unfort) which may just be hot enough to help it budge (it sets fire to things anyway!). Other than that, I have thought of getting the good old angle grinder out, although this is a last resort.

Is there anything else I could try or any tried and tested methods of doing this?

Cheers

Oldandslow

2,405 posts

207 months

Wednesday 11th November 2009
quotequote all
Is this an inner race? Is there any room behind it to get a bearing puller on it? Maybe use a dremel (really small angle grinder) to put a groove in it and split with a chisel or flat screw driver

Deluded

Original Poster:

4,968 posts

192 months

Wednesday 11th November 2009
quotequote all
Thats it. Its the inner race of the bearing. Its just stuck on.

There is a little groove that I have tried to knock a screw driver down but with no joy. Thought about a dremel but I dont actually have one. Might have to get one frown

MisterMister

40 posts

174 months

Wednesday 11th November 2009
quotequote all
Wouldn't heating it up just cause it to expand, thus making it even harder to remove?

C. Grimsley

1,364 posts

196 months

Wednesday 11th November 2009
quotequote all
Cut through it, once more or less through whack it with a hammer and it should crack this making it open upand come off.

Carl

Deluded

Original Poster:

4,968 posts

192 months

Wednesday 11th November 2009
quotequote all
I'll attack it with the angle grinder tomorrow then.

Ive had a go with a bearing grabber thing (always wondered what that torture device in my tool box was) but it just cant get a good enough grip on the little grooves.

Cheers

HellDiver

5,708 posts

183 months

Thursday 12th November 2009
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Some stty French cars need the drum replaced, the bearing is permenantly attached.

Mound Dawg

1,915 posts

175 months

Thursday 12th November 2009
quotequote all
I've had this happen to me changing a rear bearing on an Alfa 147. I cut a slot in the ring with a grinder then whacked it with a chisel to split it.

Heating the ring will cause it to expand but this actually makes the hole in centre bigger. The same process (in reverse) is used to fit ring gears to flywheels.

bikemonster

1,188 posts

242 months

Thursday 12th November 2009
quotequote all
Can you not get a gear/hub puller onto it?

(Also, signing off "Cheers" is very rude, as it's an incomplete salutation.)

Cheers

The Moose

The Black Flash

13,735 posts

199 months

Thursday 12th November 2009
quotequote all
You need a bearing splitter.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...

Or just angle grind it off, but go carefull...

paintman

7,705 posts

191 months

Thursday 12th November 2009
quotequote all
If you have an arc welder or mig run a bead of weld round the race.
The heat causes it to expand & the weld stops it shrinking back.
Done that a few times over the years & not failed me yet.
Or - as already said - reach for the angle grinder.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

256 months

Thursday 12th November 2009
quotequote all
paintman said:
If you have an arc welder or mig run a bead of weld round the race.
The heat causes it to expand & the weld stops it shrinking back.
Welding causes things to shrink, which is why it works so well for removing OUTER bearing races. Doing it to an inner will likely just make it even tighter,

paintman

7,705 posts

191 months

Friday 13th November 2009
quotequote all
When I was shown how I thought the same as you - that the heat would cause it to grip tighter. Didn't work like that in practice though. Bead round the track area.
Usually the inner track stuck to the stub axle & some can be well & truly stuck especially if the bearing has overheated & broken up in service.
As I said, worked for me every time.




Edited by paintman on Friday 13th November 00:48

Hilux

47 posts

240 months

Monday 7th December 2009
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It sounds like it is the type designed to be pressed on. Cutting most of the way through it will allow a cold chisel to split it but I reckon you`ll need to press the new one on.

The alternative is to heat the new race and freeze the hub/shaft.

flemke

22,865 posts

238 months

Thursday 10th December 2009
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MisterMister said:
Wouldn't heating it up just cause it to expand, thus making it even harder to remove?
It doesn't expand by getting thicker. It expands by, in effect, getting longer.
If you had a steel bar 1 cm square and a metre long, and heated it entirely, it would expand much more in length than in section, because there are a lot more molecules lengthwise than in section.
The typical bearing race is like a flat/tapered steel bar that's been pulled around into a circle. Heat it, and the much larger number of molecules around the circumference will cause the circ. to expand. Effectively, you're making it longer, the same as with a flat bar. Although the thickness will increase also, the amount of expansion in the circ. is so much greater that the net effect is that in inside diam gets somewhat bigger, and the outside diameter gets a lot bigger.