T-CUT or alternatives?

T-CUT or alternatives?

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Discussion

w00tman

Original Poster:

603 posts

145 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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Evening all

It appears that in the last 2 weeks (i.e. between washes!) someone has hit my bumper and left some light scratching in places - very barely visible if the car is dirty, but aggravating after I've spent several hours cleaning the bloody thing!

Rather than losing my rag, I thought I'd be pragmatic - it could be worse!

So - is this a job for T-Cut or is there something better/safer to use for hairline scratches? would be applied with a micro fibre by hand on - I don't have a DA polisher.

The bloody car is pristine otherwise grrr…!

okie592

2,711 posts

167 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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I've just used autoglyms equviliant thing called restore or something simualr with a purple label. It worked well on some tree branch scratches

driverrob

4,688 posts

203 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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How about some colour (color) match polish? I think they also come with a hard wax stick for fine scratches.

w00tman

Original Poster:

603 posts

145 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
quotequote all
driverrob said:
How about some colour (color) match polish? I think they also come with a hard wax stick for fine scratches.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_219145_langId_-1_categoryId_165527

This the one? not seen this before but looks interesting - think I will give it a try.

Thanks!

MondeoMan1981

2,356 posts

183 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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You can get a colour match style restorer and polish in one, generally done a good job on grey and red cars where I've used it.


ch427

8,959 posts

233 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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Autoglym paint renovator is what you need, has a light cutting action.

Buff Mchugelarge

3,316 posts

150 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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Where abouts are you?

there are plenty of scratch removers available these days, Meguiers Scratch X, or Ultimate compound are good, other wise colour polishes work well too.

w00tman

Original Poster:

603 posts

145 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
quotequote all
Buff Mchugelarge said:
Where abouts are you?

there are plenty of scratch removers available these days, Meguiers Scratch X, or Ultimate compound are good, other wise colour polishes work well too.
At home mate - why, you're not going to break in are you? (I kid I kid - Staffordshire/Stoke)

Really interesting all this - never had excuse to use one before, but look like some quality suggestions. Really useful - thanks all.

RDB

334 posts

179 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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I've had success with Meguiars Scratch-X on various cars. Halfords sell it.

Buff Mchugelarge

3,316 posts

150 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
quotequote all
If you happen to be near Worthing in Sussex, give me a shout and I'll run a polisher over it for you.
A bit of a journey though!
We use all sorts of compounds and waxes at work but we still have a big tin of good ol' T-cut that gets used nearly everyday. It really is very good smile

aspirated

2,539 posts

146 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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Gaffer tape

aspirated

2,539 posts

146 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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Gaffer tape

grumpy52

5,584 posts

166 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
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Farcla g3 cutting compound , if using a polisher add a little water.
3m finesse it , normally only available in trade places.
Autoglym restore is good but I found it to be hard work.
Good quality polish after then wax it .

w00tman

Original Poster:

603 posts

145 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
quotequote all
Buff Mchugelarge said:
If you happen to be near Worthing in Sussex, give me a shout and I'll run a polisher over it for you.
A bit of a journey though!
We use all sorts of compounds and waxes at work but we still have a big tin of good ol' T-cut that gets used nearly everyday. It really is very good smile
Quite a journey but a really kind offer - thanks mate <3

SeeFive

8,280 posts

233 months

Sunday 9th March 2014
quotequote all
The old rule is if you can hang your finger nail in it, it probably will not polish out completely. However, even under thosse circumstances you can improve it by rounding off the top corners along the length of the scratch, meaning less light refraction. If we are talking just dulling of the clearcoat shine, T-Cut by hand should be good to use as a final cut and then apply a polish or wax to seal.

Product choice is difficult without seeing/feeling the scratch, and even then you will get almost as many answers as there are products out there - everyone has their own favourite including wet sanding. I have removed some significant scratches by hand with T-Cut, but have also used other compounds of differing abrasive qualities. Compounds are like sandpaper, they put damage into the paint as they remove larger imperfections, so you need to work through the grades to get a final finish starting coarser for correction and finishing fine to remove the damage put in by the coarser compound.

All I would say is be careful if the damage is deep as you could remove the clearcoat before you get rid of the scratch. You need to know when to stop removing clearcoat, or you will end up with a dull mess each side of the scratch.

There is a lot of stuff out there on youtube for technique for a specific type of scratch - whether to work along or around the scratch depending on what it looks like. Providing you are careful, you will almost certainly improve it.

redrook

41 posts

106 months

Saturday 14th November 2020
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SeeFive said:
The old rule is if you can hang your finger nail in it, it probably will not polish out completely. However, even under thosse circumstances you can improve it by rounding off the top corners along the length of the scratch, meaning less light refraction. If we are talking just dulling of the clearcoat shine, T-Cut by hand should be good to use as a final cut and then apply a polish or wax to seal.

Product choice is difficult without seeing/feeling the scratch, and even then you will get almost as many answers as there are products out there - everyone has their own favourite including wet sanding. I have removed some significant scratches by hand with T-Cut, but have also used other compounds of differing abrasive qualities. Compounds are like sandpaper, they put damage into the paint as they remove larger imperfections, so you need to work through the grades to get a final finish starting coarser for correction and finishing fine to remove the damage put in by the coarser compound.

All I would say is be careful if the damage is deep as you could remove the clearcoat before you get rid of the scratch. You need to know when to stop removing clearcoat, or you will end up with a dull mess each side of the scratch.

There is a lot of stuff out there on youtube for technique for a specific type of scratch - whether to work along or around the scratch depending on what it looks like. Providing you are careful, you will almost certainly improve it.
Bumping an old thread I know, but this is a big post for someone who has no idea what they're talking about.

You don't "apply polish or wax". They do completely different jobs. A polish is what you need to cut the clear coat (it's an abrasive) and remove the scratches as much as possible. Wax then is applied on top and protects the clear coat. You do not apply polish, you use it as an abrasive and then buff it off.

Rozzers

1,728 posts

75 months

Saturday 14th November 2020
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Most people who arent into paint or detailing will call indeed call the wax/sealant ‘polish’ as thats what the traditional ‘all in one’ products are called, like Auto Glym Super Resin Polish....

Which is fine to use as a top coat after cutting back.

Nothing wrong with the most and more than a bit odd to pile in after the elapsed time.