Recommend me a mop
Discussion
As the title says... I need a mop to iron out some nasty paintwork and inferior spraying which the previous owner had done.
Are all mops pretty much the same? All I know is it has angle grinder like construction, but is slower and has a head that can take circular sponge attachments.
I don't want to spend a fortune as I'm not a pro. But don't want one of those crappy two handed ones you can buy in a supermarket either.
Thanks in advance.
Cad
Are all mops pretty much the same? All I know is it has angle grinder like construction, but is slower and has a head that can take circular sponge attachments.
I don't want to spend a fortune as I'm not a pro. But don't want one of those crappy two handed ones you can buy in a supermarket either.
Thanks in advance.
Cad
Hi, get a polisher cheap at machine mart or northern tools & add a farecla g mop
Head to it, then apply farecla g3 compound sparingly & a splash of water & machine it in till it shines. Caution! Stay off body lines or you will go through the paint.
Can be finished with glazes or waxes of your choice.
Good luck!
Steve
Head to it, then apply farecla g3 compound sparingly & a splash of water & machine it in till it shines. Caution! Stay off body lines or you will go through the paint.
Can be finished with glazes or waxes of your choice.
Good luck!
Steve
Chris_VRS said:
DA - http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/kestrel-das6-pro-plu...
Rotary - http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/silverline-rotary-po...
What are the advantages/disadvantages between DA and Rotary please? :|Rotary - http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/silverline-rotary-po...
Rotary polishers are usually better at achieving a high result at a quicker but is more likely to cause damage if it us used by a inexperienced user ( sometimes depending on the user) a DA is the same concept but rather than turning on a central point it oscillates so is much safer for the paint work but doesn't achieve the same amount of cut as a rotary, but will still achieve good results, detailing world has really good guides on how these all work and the ins and outs of the process, if it still doesnt have the pictures in it let me know and I can email you a version that does
marc147 said:
Rotary polishers are usually better at achieving a high result at a quicker but is more likely to cause damage if it us used by a inexperienced user ( sometimes depending on the user) a DA is the same concept but rather than turning on a central point it oscillates so is much safer for the paint work but doesn't achieve the same amount of cut as a rotary, but will still achieve good results, detailing world has really good guides on how these all work and the ins and outs of the process, if it still doesnt have the pictures in it let me know and I can email you a version that does
Thanks for that. I'll post a pic of some of the runs to give you guys an idea of what I need to correct.Chris_VRS said:
DA - http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/kestrel-das6-pro-plu...
Rotary - http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/silverline-rotary-po...
I would avoid the Silverline Rotary as it's very heavy and not particularly user friendly.Rotary - http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/silverline-rotary-po...
There are offerings out there from 3m and Flex which are far more user friendly IMO.
I'd say you're better off with a DAS6 Pro Rupes over a Silverline. Hideous, hideous things.
mneame said:
Can't see where it says what level of cut you would get with those heads I bought a Meguiars G220 years ago when they first came out, which is a DA.
I think I would have preferred a rotary, as the vibration from the DA gets frigging annoying, especially when you notice your manboobs wobbling to the rhythm of the polisher.
A rotary wont have you down to bare metal in 3 seconds, just take your time, use fine pads and polishes, and you should have no problems...
There are plenty of vids on youtube, and guides on DetailingWorld.
I think I would have preferred a rotary, as the vibration from the DA gets frigging annoying, especially when you notice your manboobs wobbling to the rhythm of the polisher.
A rotary wont have you down to bare metal in 3 seconds, just take your time, use fine pads and polishes, and you should have no problems...
There are plenty of vids on youtube, and guides on DetailingWorld.
Dave^ said:
I bought a Meguiars G220 years ago when they first came out, which is a DA.
I think I would have preferred a rotary, as the vibration from the DA gets frigging annoying, especially when you notice your manboobs wobbling to the rhythm of the polisher.
A rotary wont have you down to bare metal in 3 seconds, just take your time, use fine pads and polishes, and you should have no problems...
There are plenty of vids on youtube, and guides on DetailingWorld.
A rotary will if you don't know what you're doing, as well as a dual action machine as it goes. It's very easy to strip through the colour layer. It only needs a little too much pressure, too much speed, the wrong pad and the wrong polish. Pick a combo of those and it'll happily cost you a re-spray. If you insist on a rotary polisher go to a scrap yard and buy a scrap panel to practise on before touching a car. I think I would have preferred a rotary, as the vibration from the DA gets frigging annoying, especially when you notice your manboobs wobbling to the rhythm of the polisher.
A rotary wont have you down to bare metal in 3 seconds, just take your time, use fine pads and polishes, and you should have no problems...
There are plenty of vids on youtube, and guides on DetailingWorld.
Even if you don't manage to strip the clear and colour coats I'd put a few quid on the first attempts leaving some great buffer trails behind.
it's not as easy as you think to burn through... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y8vHRwiTgY
Full speed, no movement, still took a fair few seconds.
As I said, take you time, use fine polishes and pads, watch videos, read guides...
Full speed, no movement, still took a fair few seconds.
As I said, take you time, use fine polishes and pads, watch videos, read guides...
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